Chain/Running Gear cleaning

[crees22]

Howdie Partners!!!!

Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it aswell. Theres always a slight dirty residue left even after a good old cleaning, is there a better way of going about this?


Cheers... mr Chris

 

[Peter Clinch]

crees22 wrote:

> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate
> results

WD40 is primarily a water displacer, it's not best suited to this job.

For cleaning the chain, probably the best way is remove it (a Powerlink
is a Very Good Idea here) and soak it in something suitable and scrub
it. Petrol and paraffin are effective degreasers, or use a citrus
degreaser if you want a nicer smell! I can never be arsed with that to
be honest, and next level is one of the rotating brush cleaners with
suitable degreaser solvent. I did have a Finish Line one, but to be
honest the one I got from Lidl is much better as it isn't made from the
world's brittlest plastic.

Mostly for clean and lube I just give the chain a very good dose of
GT-85[1] or Finish Line teflon chain lube and rub off the excess with a
rag. Same rag is used to clean the gears, getting an edge down between
the sprockets.

Don't forget that at the end a film of oil on the transmission will help
cack stick to it, and wear its way in. Dryer lubes that rely on, for
example, a light teflon coating are better in this respect.

Pete.

[1] Simon's been rude about GT-85 in the past but it seems to do okay on
my chains through salty winters, but I've started using Finish Line
teflon lube lately as Roos had a can. Make sure you don't get any of
this sort of stuff into any bearings as it will leach out the grease and
fubar them.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

 

[dirtylitterboxofferingstospammers]

>Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc..

Sheldon Brown is your friend.

See

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

There are lots of chain baths you can buy to aid the process of cleaning.

Cheers, helen s



--This is an invalid email address to avoid spam--
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[MSeries]

crees22 wrote:
> Howdie Partners!!!!
>
> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with
adequate
> results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it aswell.
Theres
> always a slight dirty residue left even after a good old cleaning, is
> there a better way of going about this?
>
>
> Cheers... mr Chris
>
>
> --
> crees22

Do a search on google groups for chain cleaning, it has come up
recently. I remove my chain periodically and soak it in Diesel. Scrub
it with a toothbrush and wipe it down. I remove the sprockets and wipe
them with a cloth. I sometimes remove the chainrings, sometimes just
wipe the teeth. Refit and relube. Low tech, cheap and effective.

 

[Jeremy Collins]

crees22 wrote:
> Howdie Partners!!!!
>
> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate
> results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it aswell. Theres
> always a slight dirty residue left even after a good old cleaning, is
> there a better way of going about this?

I use an old toothbrush and citrus degreaser (Halfords) for
a quick and easy gear & chain cleanup. Then a good rinse with
a watering can, let it dry, and a sparing amount of
lubricant (I used to use far too much, meaning it just got
mucky again that much quicker!).

If the chain is really filthy, it's best to take it off
and give it a good soak and scrub.



--
jc

Remove the -not from email

 

[Just zis Guy, you know?]

On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:50:48 +1000, crees22
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc..

AASHTA: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

>Last couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40

Gaaah! Never let that stuff near your bike! It's a work of Stan!

Use citrus degreaser, and for best results get the components off the
bike first.

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

crees22 wrote:

> Howdie Partners!!!!
>
> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate
> results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it aswell. Theres
> always a slight dirty residue left even after a good old cleaning, is
> there a better way of going about this?

1. Drop dirty chain in a large jamjar full of white spirit and leave to
soak. Don't leave it overnight as the chain may rust [1].

2. Shake and remove chain. Keep the solvent and when the sediment
settles, decant the clear liquid into a second jar.

3. Clean the chain using a strong solution of washing up liquid and an
old paintbrush.

4. Rinse thoroughly and dry in an oven or the airing cupboard before it
can rust.

5. Refit and oil.

[1] over time the recycled solvent gets to contain quite a lot of oil,
which prevents rusting.

If you don't use SRAM Powerlinks, buy some - they make chain removal and
refitting so much easier!

 

[Pete Biggs]

crees22 wrote:
> Howdie Partners!!!!
>
> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with
> adequate results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it
> aswell. Theres always a slight dirty residue left even after a good
> old cleaning, is there a better way of going about this?

White spirit is cheap, extremely effective and leaves practically no
residue. Paraffin and diesel will leave more of an oily film, and bio
degreasers aren't always so powerful.

Remove chain and soak 'n' shake in a jam/coffee jar of white spirit.
Repeat if the chain was extremely filthy to start with (or just if you
fancy it being better rinsed). Remove and hang chain up to dry, then
lubricate, bung on bike and join. An SRAM Powerlink makes repeated
breaking/joining easy and safe; works with other brands of chain as well
if the "speed" is correct.

Crud will settle to the bottom of the jar after a number of hours/days.
For next time, carefully pour off the non-cloudy liquid into another jar
where it can be reused. Yellow/brown discolouration doesn't matter--just
will look a bit sus to any unwitting visitors to your home

~PB

 

[Pete Biggs]

Zog The Undeniable wrote:

> 3. Clean the chain using a strong solution of washing up liquid and an
> old paintbrush.

I appreciate that will get the chain even cleaner but I don't think it's
necessary.
Alternatives are to: a) not bother, or b) rinse in more white spirit.
That will reduce drying time and worry about rust.

~PB

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Pete Biggs wrote:

> Remove chain and soak 'n' shake in a jam/coffee jar of white spirit.
> Repeat if the chain was extremely filthy to start with (or just if you
> fancy it being better rinsed). Remove and hang chain up to dry, then
> lubricate, bung on bike and join. An SRAM Powerlink makes repeated
> breaking/joining easy and safe; works with other brands of chain as well
> if the "speed" is correct.
>
> Crud will settle to the bottom of the jar after a number of hours/days.
> For next time, carefully pour off the non-cloudy liquid into another jar
> where it can be reused. Yellow/brown discolouration doesn't matter--just
> will look a bit sus to any unwitting visitors to your home

Almost exactly the same as what I do, except I remove the solvent
residue with detergent. I don't think the solvent evaporates very well
from inside the rollers, and it will dilute the oil if it's still in there.

 

[Martin Newstead]

Zog The Undeniable wrote:
I don't think the solvent evaporates very
> well from inside the rollers, and it will dilute the oil if it's
> still in there.

That's why I use Diesel, it doesn't matter if it isn't completely removed as
it lubricates anyway

 

[Andy]

"Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:415997d7.0@entanet...
> crees22 wrote:
>
>> Howdie Partners!!!!
>>
>> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
>> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate
>> results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it aswell. Theres
>> always a slight dirty residue left even after a good old cleaning, is
>> there a better way of going about this?
>

I use SRAM chains with powerlink so chain removal is a doddle.

1. Remove chain, rejoin and place in an old plastic 4 pint milk container
2. Add white spirits until chain covered.
3. Swoosh around until chain "clean"
4. Pour white spirits into old jamjar
5. Remove chain, clean with an old rag.
6. Hang chain up in garage to dry

Next time, repeat but recycle white spirits.

Take about 2 minutes.

 

[Terry D]

Peter Clinch wrote:

> crees22 wrote:
>
>> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
>> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate
>> results
>
>
> WD40 is primarily a water displacer, it's not best suited to this job.
>
> For cleaning the chain, probably the best way is remove it (a Powerlink
> is a Very Good Idea here) and soak it in something suitable and scrub
> it. Petrol and paraffin are effective degreasers, or use a citrus
> degreaser if you want a nicer smell!

<Other good advice snipped>

Having recently bought a gen-u-wine Campagnolo chain which comes with an
instruction sheet, I was intrigued to read the following (over a glass or two of
vino tinto having fitted the chain earlier in the week);

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: To install chain use Campagnolo
tool UT-VS090 (fig. 1) with the measure dial set to "6,85". After
pushing in the pin make sure it projects symmetrically from both opposing
chain link plates (fig. 2). If necessary, flex chain sideways and assure
that the connection moves freely for smooth running of chain (Fig.
3-4).
MAINTENANCE: Avoid using solvents. Clean chain regularly with a dry
and clean cloth; lubricate with chain oil for bicycles.
ATTENTION: Avoid removing chain, if not for final replacement with a
new one.
REPLACEMENT: Use a high precision caliper gauge to measure, in
different points of the chain, the length as indicated in fig. 5. If even one of
the measurement is longer than 132.60 mm the chain must be replaced.

The original, complete with diagrams, can be found at;
http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/140-cat9V-2000.pdf

Until now I had always adopted the 'White spirit followed by GT 85' approach as
favoured by most urc regulars. I have decided to go with the advice for one
chain at least to see if there is any difference. Does GT 85 count as "chain oil
for bicycles"?


--
Terry Duckmanton.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/terry.duckmanton
A website mostly dedicated to cycling
http://tduckmanton.bravejournal.com
A daily log of my cycling exploits

 

[Pete Biggs]

Zog The Undeniable wrote:
> Almost exactly the same as what I do, except I remove the solvent
> residue with detergent. I don't think the solvent evaporates very
> well from inside the rollers

I would have thought it would evaporate better than water would, even from
within the rollers.

Would it do any harm anyway? Many lubes contain solvent to get the stuff
distributed well. The solvent content quickly evaporates to leave a
thicker lube. That's the way spray grease works, for example.

> and it will dilute the oil if it's still in there.

A bit of dilution is ok, isn't it?

~PB

 

[Pete Biggs]

Martin Newstead wrote:
> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
> I don't think the solvent evaporates very
>> well from inside the rollers, and it will dilute the oil if it's
>> still in there.
>
> That's why I use Diesel, it doesn't matter if it isn't completely
> removed as it lubricates anyway

Might be fine with oil. Not so good with wax products (which do contain
solvent anyway).

~PB

 

[Pete Biggs]

Terry D wrote:
> The original, complete with diagrams, can be found at;
> http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/140-cat9V-2000.pdf
>
> Until now I had always adopted the 'White spirit followed by GT 85'
> approach as favoured by most urc regulars. I have decided to go with
> the advice for one chain at least to see if there is any difference.

Campagnolo is in a world of its own when it comes to instructions in
general. Take with a bucket of salt!

~PB

 

[Ambrose Nankivell]

In news:[email protected],
Pete Biggs <pblackcherry{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> typed:
> Terry D wrote:
>> The original, complete with diagrams, can be found at;
>> http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/140-cat9V-2000.pdf
>>
>> Until now I had always adopted the 'White spirit followed by GT 85'
>> approach as favoured by most urc regulars. I have decided to go with
>> the advice for one chain at least to see if there is any difference.
>
> Campagnolo is in a world of its own when it comes to instructions in
> general. Take with a bucket of salt!

Well that'll just make it rust away to nothing.

A

 

[Simon Brooke]

in message <[email protected]>, Terry D
('[email protected]') wrote:

> Peter Clinch wrote:
>
>> crees22 wrote:
>>
>>> Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
>>> couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with
>>> adequate results
>>
>>
>> WD40 is primarily a water displacer, it's not best suited to this
>> job.
>>
>> For cleaning the chain, probably the best way is remove it (a
>> Powerlink is a Very Good Idea here) and soak it in something suitable
>> and scrub
>> it. Petrol and paraffin are effective degreasers, or use a citrus
>> degreaser if you want a nicer smell!
>
> <Other good advice snipped>
>
> Having recently bought a gen-u-wine Campagnolo chain which comes with
> an instruction sheet, I was intrigued to read the following (over a
> glass or two of vino tinto having fitted the chain earlier in the
> week);
>
> INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: To install chain use Campagnolo
> tool UT-VS090 (fig. 1) with the measure dial set to "6,85". After
> pushing in the pin make sure it projects symmetrically from both
> opposing chain link plates (fig. 2). If necessary, flex chain sideways
> and assure that the connection moves freely for smooth running of
> chain (Fig. 3-4).

Campag ten speed chains seem to have much higher rivet insertion
pressures than the Shimano and SRAM nine-speed chains, hence the very
fancy Campag chain tool. I'm not surprised that these chains don't
respond well to being repeatedly removed and replaced.

> Until now I had always adopted the 'White spirit followed by GT 85'
> approach as favoured by most urc regulars. I have decided to go with
> the advice for one chain at least to see if there is any difference.
> Does GT 85 count as "chain oil for bicycles"?

I've always thought of GT85 as 'the quickest way to wreck a good chain
and cassette', although I may be mistaken. It's essentially a very
light aromatic fluid which drives off any genuinely lubricating coating
and then evaporates very quickly, leaving a sticky residue and some
PTFE particles. Any long term lubricating effect is down to the PTFE
particles, and I'm skeptical as to how effective they are. They
certainly don't form a protective film over the bearing surfaces as oil
would.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

my other car is #<Subr-Car: #5d480>
;; This joke is not funny in emacs.

 

[Simon Gooch]

Hi

Don't know if you lot use , 'White lightning' bit like a liquid wax, turn to
a soft wax when dry. This stuff slowly sheds off as the chain is used.

Will not make toy hands dirty if you touch the chain

good stuff

WWW.wiggle.co.uk


SO
"Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:415997d7.0@entanet...
> crees22 wrote:
>
> > Howdie Partners!!!!
> >
> > Whats the best way to clean up the chain and the gears etc.. Last
> > couple of times ive been degreasing it with WD40 but only with adequate
> > results, I also have to use about a billion gallons of it aswell. Theres
> > always a slight dirty residue left even after a good old cleaning, is
> > there a better way of going about this?
>
> 1. Drop dirty chain in a large jamjar full of white spirit and leave to
> soak. Don't leave it overnight as the chain may rust [1].
>
> 2. Shake and remove chain. Keep the solvent and when the sediment
> settles, decant the clear liquid into a second jar.
>
> 3. Clean the chain using a strong solution of washing up liquid and an
> old paintbrush.
>
> 4. Rinse thoroughly and dry in an oven or the airing cupboard before it
> can rust.
>
> 5. Refit and oil.
>
> [1] over time the recycled solvent gets to contain quite a lot of oil,
> which prevents rusting.
>
> If you don't use SRAM Powerlinks, buy some - they make chain removal and
> refitting so much easier!

 

[Pete Biggs]

Simon Gooch wrote:
> Hi
>
> Don't know if you lot use , 'White lightning' bit like a liquid wax,
> turn to a soft wax when dry. This stuff slowly sheds off as the chain
> is used.

I would use it if it was cheaper.

~PB