Chain skipping

[[email protected]]

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Craig

 

[landotter]

[email protected] wrote:
> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
> cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
> skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
> and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
> it back to the shop or I can fix at home?
>


Sounds like a misadjusted derailleur. Shift to the middle cog, flip
bike over and push the jockey wheel against the cassette. Does it line
up? No? Then play with the cable tensioner till it does.

 

[[email protected]]

Craig yahoo? writes:

> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
> skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
> whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

New chain skipping is caused by worn sprockets. Are you sure all the
sprockets are new and no old ones?

Jobst Brandt

 

[Art Harris]

Craig wrote:
> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
> cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
> skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
> and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
> it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on the
previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the cassette
every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't excessively
worn.

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible causes
of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain installed
incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Art Harris

 

[[email protected]]

Art Harris <[email protected]> writes:

>> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
>> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
>> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
>> skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
>> whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

> Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
> the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
> cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't
> excessively worn.

> If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
> causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
> installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
and bind in use (skip).

Jobst Brandt

 

[[email protected]]

[email protected] wrote:
> Art Harris <[email protected]> writes:
>
> >> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
> >> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
> >> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
> >> skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
> >> whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?
>
> > Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
> > the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
> > cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't
> > excessively worn.
>
> > If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
> > causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
> > installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.
>
> Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
> in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
> afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
> expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
> and bind in use (skip).
>
> Jobst Brandt

Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:

- the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
- it is a new cassette and not the old one

I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much. I
was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they are
tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Craig

 

[[email protected]]

Art Harris wrote:
> Craig wrote:
> > I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
> > cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
> > skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
> > and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
> > it back to the shop or I can fix at home?
>
> Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on the
> previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the cassette
> every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't excessively
> worn.
>
> If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible causes
> of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain installed
> incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.
>
> Art Harris


Thanks to everyone who responded.

The previous cassette was 2+ years old and had many miles on it. The
issue was cable stretch plus the derailleur was bent.

Craig

 

[[email protected]]

Craig yahoo? writes:


>>>> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
>>>> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
>>>> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and
>>>> some skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could
>>>> be and whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at
>>>> home?

>>> Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
>>> the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
>>> cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain
>>> wasn't excessively worn.

>>> If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
>>> causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
>>> installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

>> Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be
>> pressing in a link pin without making sure that the link
>> articulates freely afterward. The other is to press in a link pin
>> and not oil that joint expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid
>> of lubricant and can gall and bind in use (skip).

> Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:

> - the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
> - it is a new cassette and not the old one

Is it new or is it an old one? I don't understand. What is new and
what is used?

> I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
> the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much.
> I was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they
> are tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Stainless steel cables are not as strong as conventional cadmium
plated control and brake cables, but they cost more to make up for
that weakness. Just the same, neither kind of cables stretch (nor do
drive chains). Watch out for repair shops that present such BS.

Let's clarify whether these are new or used sprockets first.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Jobst Brandt

 

[Ralph]

its cable stretch, tighten the adjuster
My stumpy s-works SRAM did the same thing on my first ride in the hills.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
> cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
> skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
> and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
> it back to the shop or I can fix at home?
>
> Craig
>

 

[Chris Z The Wheelman]

Replace the cogs. They're worn. And yes, with the proper tools and a
little instruction you can do this at home. Ask your dealer for the
proper replacement cogs, tools and lessons on how to use them. If he's
worth his (or her) grease, he/she will show you

- -
Comments and opinions compliments of,
"Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

My web Site:
http "colon-slash-slash" geocities "dot" com "slash" czcorner

To E-mail me:
ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net

 

[Sorni]

[email protected] wrote:
> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
> cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
> skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
> and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
> it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Like others said, it sounds like a cable tension issue -- if by "skip" you
mean jumping to adjacent cogs or just sloppy shifting. Did they replace
your cables and maybe housings, too?

If the chain is truly /skipping/, then I'd say it's your chainring(s).

OR it's the wrong type of chain. (9 speed on 10 speed perhaps?)

 

[Michael Press]

In article
<[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:

> [email protected] wrote:
> > Art Harris <[email protected]> writes:
> >
> > >> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
> > >> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
> > >> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
> > >> skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
> > >> whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?
> >
> > > Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
> > > the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
> > > cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't
> > > excessively worn.
> >
> > > If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
> > > causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
> > > installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.
> >
> > Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
> > in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
> > afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
> > expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
> > and bind in use (skip).
> >
> > Jobst Brandt
>
> Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:
>
> - the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
> - it is a new cassette and not the old one
>
> I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
> the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much. I
> was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they are
> tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Cables themselves do not stretch.

What happens is that housing changes, ferrules move up on
housing, ferrules seat further into stops. All manner of
plastic deformation _except_in_the_stranded_cable.

Think about it. If a cable stretches it gets thinner, you
take up the slack, the cable is thinner so it stretches
more easily, it gets thinner, stretches more, until it is
a one atom thick filament, and snaps. No, all the plastic
deformation is compressive in the supporting material, not
stretching of the cable.

If the bicycle shop is acting exactly as you say, then cut
your losses and find one that does better work. The first
clue is that they allowed their work on the street without
testing it.

A competent shop gets the cable system seated before
calling the job done.

--
Michael Press

 

[Mark Hickey]

[email protected] wrote:

>I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
>the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much. I
>was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they are
>tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Jobst and others have it right about cables not stretching.

But even if they DID stretch, it's STILL a non-issue since the
relative movement of the rear derailleur with each shift would still
be the same (unless they're trying to tell you that the cable is so
"stretchy" that it's lengthening as you shift to the smaller cogs, in
which case you should probably avoid the place like the plague).

The bent derailleur you mentioned in a later post sounds like the
likely culprit.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Thu, 08 Jun 2006 12:40:46 -0700, mycinelli wrote:

> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
> cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
> skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
> and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
> it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Are you sure they replaced the cassette?

--

David L. Johnson

__o | The lottery is a tax on those who fail to understand
_`\(,_ | mathematics.
(_)/ (_) |

 

[[email protected]]

[email protected] wrote:
> Craig yahoo? writes:
>
>
> >>>> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
> >>>> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
> >>>> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and
> >>>> some skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could
> >>>> be and whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at
> >>>> home?
>
> >>> Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
> >>> the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
> >>> cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain
> >>> wasn't excessively worn.
>
> >>> If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
> >>> causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
> >>> installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.
>
> >> Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be
> >> pressing in a link pin without making sure that the link
> >> articulates freely afterward. The other is to press in a link pin
> >> and not oil that joint expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid
> >> of lubricant and can gall and bind in use (skip).
>
> > Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:
>
> > - the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
> > - it is a new cassette and not the old one
>
> Is it new or is it an old one? I don't understand. What is new and
> what is used?
>
> > I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
> > the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much.
> > I was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they
> > are tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).
>
> Stainless steel cables are not as strong as conventional cadmium
> plated control and brake cables, but they cost more to make up for
> that weakness. Just the same, neither kind of cables stretch (nor do
> drive chains). Watch out for repair shops that present such BS.
>
> Let's clarify whether these are new or used sprockets first.
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html
>
> Jobst Brandt

The old cassette was 2+ years old and was replaced with a new cassette.
I ended up taking it to a different bike shop where the guy also told
me that cables stretched, but he also found that the derailleur was
bent. He fixed it, took it out for a spin, had me ride it to make sure
I was happy and ended up not charging me for it.

The fact that bike shop #2 also believed strongly that cables stretch,
despite their friendly attitude, leaves me without a bike shop I feel I
can trust. I'm wondering if that should be my litmus test for finding
a new LBS - call all the ones in the surrounding area and ask whether
cables stretch...

Thanks again for all the responses!

Craig

 

[Paul Cassel]

[email protected] wrote:

>
> Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
> in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
> afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
> expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
> and bind in use (skip).
>
I would think that if this were the case, it'd skip universally, not
just on one or two cogs.

I'm skeptical that the shop remembered to replace a worn cassette. At
any rate, he has a reason to return the bike and get it back working
properly.

-paul

 

[John Everett]

On 8 Jun 2006 23:03:53 -0700, [email protected] wrote:


>The fact that bike shop #2 also believed strongly that cables stretch,
>despite their friendly attitude, leaves me without a bike shop I feel I
>can trust. I'm wondering if that should be my litmus test for finding
>a new LBS - call all the ones in the surrounding area and ask whether
>cables stretch...

What many percieve as cable stretch is actually cable housing
compression, or cable ends bedding in. If the shifter cable housing
wasn't changed chances are this wasn't your problem.

When installing new cables and housings it's a good idea to seat the
housing ends by 1) squeezing the brakes REALLY HARD, or 2) shifting
the derailleurs to the maximum cable tension position then pulling the
exposed cable runs away from the downtube, sort of like drawing a bow.

It's just amazing how the above exercise minimizes cable stretch. ;-)


jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3