chain stretch, cassette wear and joining links

[xisle]

Hi,

I'm using an ultegra cassette and a duraace chain. I felt it was probably about time to get a new chain before the cassette started to wear too much. 12 chain links measure about 12 and 1/16th inches so I think I'll be able to replace it without any problems.

I've read about people using a system where they run two or three chains and swap them over each week to evenly spread the wear and extend the life of the cassette. Has anyone tried doing this for any length of time?

Do these regular chain removing folk use sram powerlinks or something similar?

A bike mechanic once looked at me in horror when I suggested using one of those on a shimano chain. I'm not sure if they were a purest, if they were trying to drum up business or if they were telling the truth. Has anyone had experience using the sram joining links on shimano chains? What sort of problems would this be likely to cause?

Thanks

 

[suzyj]

xisle wrote:

> I've read about people using a system where they run two
> or three chains and swap them over each week to evenly
> spread the wear and extend the life of the cassette. Has
> anyone tried doing this for any length of time?

I do this. It's pretty much mandatory if you run two sets of wheels on the same bike, as otherwise you'll get skip with one set of wheels.

However there's no need to swap chains every week - I do it maybe once a month or so. Whenever I take the chain off to clean it, I just put one of the others (pre-cleaned) on, then clean the one that just came off the bike, ready for next time.

> Do these regular chain removing folk use sram powerlinks or
> something similar?

SRAM powerlinks are your friend.

> A bike mechanic once looked at me in horror when I suggested
> using one of those on a shimano chain. I'm not sure if they were
> a purest, if they were trying to drum up business or if they were
> telling the truth. Has anyone had experience using the sram
> joining links on shimano chains? What sort of problems would this
> be likely to cause?

Did he have pimples? I find the ones with pimples often give the worst advice. Powerlinks work with any chain of the same width. I however use SRAM chains as well, as I find they last better (and are quieter and cheaper) than the Campy ones. The same is likely true for Shimano.

Regards,

Suzy

 

[mfhor]

I do this. It's pretty much mandatory if you run two sets of wheels on the same bike, as otherwise you'll get skip with one set of wheels.

However there's no need to swap chains every week - I do it maybe once a month or so. Whenever I take the chain off to clean it, I just put one of the others (pre-cleaned) on, then clean the one that just came off the bike, ready for next time.

> Do these regular chain removing folk use sram powerlinks or
> something similar?

SRAM powerlinks are your friend.

> A bike mechanic once looked at me in horror when I suggested
> using one of those on a shimano chain. I'm not sure if they were
> a purest, if they were trying to drum up business or if they were
> telling the truth. Has anyone had experience using the sram
> joining links on shimano chains? What sort of problems would this
> be likely to cause?

Did he have pimples? I find the ones with pimples often give the worst advice. Powerlinks work with any chain of the same width. I however use SRAM chains as well, as I find they last better (and are quieter and cheaper) than the Campy ones. The same is likely true for Shimano.

Regards,

Suzy

We could construct a continuum as to reliability of bikeshop employee advice based on their physical features: i.e. pimples and death metal T-shirts - 0 points (except for DH/freeride - 4 ranging to 7 points on a bong-free day); greasy apron, glasses, beard, know-it-all expression - 6.5 points (except for touring bikes, Birdys, Schmidts Dynohubs and Ortlieb panniers - 8 points); buzzcut, A-Grade legs and attitude by the bucketload - 5 points (except for CF roadies, Dura-Ace and Campag Chorus and Record - 7 points). Don't know where i fit into that, tho . . .

I had a couple of bad experiences a few years ago with exploding SRAM links. I use Wipperman Connex now - no probs so far.

Put your (clean) dormant chain into an old clean grease tin full of your favourite lube (to cover). A few days before "The Changeover"(coming soon to a cinema near you), hang it above the tin to let the excess drip back in. Wipe dry and install. Mmmm, smooth drivetrain! Keep wiping for the first few rides to remove excess (remember to clean cogs/c'rings/jockey wheels for full effect).

I like Wipperman chains. But I can never get one to work on my 8 spd touring bike with Shimano barcons/LX bits. The Shimano equiv. works fine. Strange. Must be the long cable run, sideplate design, or something.

M "friction-modified" H

 

[Bikesoiler]

Hi,

I'm using an ultegra cassette and a duraace chain. I felt it was probably about time to get a new chain before the cassette started to wear too much. 12 chain links measure about 12 and 1/16th inches so I think I'll be able to replace it without any problems.

I've read about people using a system where they run two or three chains and swap them over each week to evenly spread the wear and extend the life of the cassette. Has anyone tried doing this for any length of time?

Do these regular chain removing folk use sram powerlinks or something similar?

A bike mechanic once looked at me in horror when I suggested using one of those on a shimano chain. I'm not sure if they were a purest, if they were trying to drum up business or if they were telling the truth. Has anyone had experience using the sram joining links on shimano chains? What sort of problems would this be likely to cause?

Thanks

I use a Wipperman brand removable link in a Shimmano (9 speed) chain with no problems. I'll definately be using a Sram chain & powerlink when I replace it.
I did think of altenating chains on my most recent new bike but I left it too long before checking the chain wear.
As my handle suggests, I ride my bike(s) through 4 types of mud, crud, water, sh1t & mud. Even my road bike got dirty on its last outing.
Oh well, ride it, clean it, rinse & repeat.

 

[xisle]

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I bought a SRAM Powerlink at the same time as I got this chain. Maybe I'll invest in another chain too. Either that or keep an eye on the length and start swapping it with the current chain when they become the same length.

The mechanic didn't have a lot of pimples, what he did have though was a shiny cannondale road bike covered in Dura Ace. I reckon he must have replaced the chain, cassette and chainrings and monthly intervals.

suzyj: The reason I buy shimano chains is this same mechanic advised that I shouldn't use SRAM chains on Shimano cassettes. Now I'm getting the feeling that he actually follows the instructions on his shampoo which advise to only use the conditioner from the same company.

mfhor: lets hope that sram have improved their links in the last few years.

 

[hippy]

"xisle" <[email protected]> wrote
> mfhor: lets hope that sram have improved their links in the last few
> years.

Anecdotal evidence isn't too useful unless you
have enough respondants to spot an obvious
trend..

Having said that.. I use SRAM powerlinks on
Ultegra roadie (Ultegra and SRAM chains) and
on the singlespeed with the original 7spd Shimano
chain and no probs so far (few thousand hard kays
on both bikes).

hippy

 

[suzyj]

xisle wrote:

> suzyj: The reason I buy shimano chains is this same mechanic
> advised that I shouldn't use SRAM chains on Shimano cassettes.
> Now I'm getting the feeling that he actually follows the instructions
> on his shampoo which advise to only use the conditioner from the
> same company.

The nice thing about the SRAM chains is that you don't need a special pin to join them, they just work. I can understand the reasoning behind Shimano (and Campy) insisting that you use only matching bits. It's easier just to say no than to go through a suck-it-and-see exercise. At least that way you have predictable results.

> mfhor: lets hope that sram have improved their links in the
> last few years.

FWIW, I've been using SRAM chains ever since they were called Sedis, without ever breaking one. They're good gear.

Regards,

Suzy

 

[Geoff]

"xisle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> mfhor: lets hope that sram have improved their links in the last few
> years.
>
I've used the PC59 and more recently the PC99 SRAM chains with the Gold link
ever since the original Shimano 105 chain that came with my bike reached the
end of it's life over four years ago. I've never had a problem with the
link breaking and I have not heard of anyone else breaking one either, so it
looks to me as if this problem is no longer an issue.

btw. The PC99 is the longest lasting, best shifting, quietest chain I have
used to date on a road bike. I use this chain with both an SRAM 9R and an
Ultegra Cassette. So far the PC99 Chain has about 5500km on it and it still
feels good.

Geoff

 

[xisle]

okay so my next chain will be a SRAM. Last week I should have posted a "recommend me a chain" thread.

 

[mfhor]

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I bought a SRAM Powerlink at the same time as I got this chain. Maybe I'll invest in another chain too. Either that or keep an eye on the length and start swapping it with the current chain when they become the same length.
The mechanic didn't have a lot of pimples, what he did have though was a shiny cannondale road bike covered in Dura Ace. I reckon he must have replaced the chain, cassette and chainrings and monthly intervals.

mfhor: lets hope that sram have improved their links in the last few years.

Well, the trouble I and a few others had seemed to be just after SRAM had bought out Sedis, and the chains were always good, as far as I could tell. It was some of these early Powerlinks that didn't like to be bent sideways, it seemed. They were made in Portugal, or so it said on the packet. Someone told me it was because the steel they made them out of was too brittle.

The Wipperman Connex links are a slightly different shape, and are easier to pull apart for maintainance. I find that the SRAM links tend to get a bit embedded and can be a bit hard on the fingers to get apart. Anyone else found this?

M "How do you get an expensive chain? Every time you break it, insert a Shimano chain pin" H

 

[Shane Stanley]

get one at ace hardware

 

[xisle]

When it comes to chain wear do people generally agree that over 12 chain links
1/8th of an inch extra means you've left it too late
1/16th of an inch means it's time to replace the chain
and any less means it's still got some life

I don't really want to buy one of those little chain measuring things.

Please excuse the use of inch units in this post. I'm not a foreigner or someone who won't let go of imperial. It just seems a tidy unit to use when talking about chains.

 

[mfhor]

When it comes to chain wear do people generally agree that over 12 chain links
1/8th of an inch extra means you've left it too late
1/16th of an inch means it's time to replace the chain
and any less means it's still got some life

I don't really want to buy one of those little chain measuring things.

Please excuse the use of inch units in this post. I'm not a foreigner or someone who won't let go of imperial. It just seems a tidy unit to use when talking about chains.

Bush mechanic rule of bruised and battered thumb: Pull your chain away from the front of your big chainring. If you can see daylight, then it's time to start thinking about a fresh chain. Lots of daylight? Think harder, even about new chainrings.

M "Chaincheckers are all very well, but they always seem to say the same thing" H

 

[Shane Stanley]

In article <[email protected]>,
xisle <[email protected]> wrote:

> When it comes to chain wear do people generally agree that over 12 chain
> links
> 1/8th of an inch extra means you've left it too late
> 1/16th of an inch means it's time to replace the chain
> and any less means it's still got some life

1/8th over 12 inches is about 1%, so yes, that's a good rule of thumb.
>
> I don't really want to buy one of those little chain measuring things.

FWIW, they can be less accurate than the method you're using.

--
Shane Stanley

 

[Mike]

xisle wrote:
> When it comes to chain wear do people generally agree that over 12 chain
> links
> 1/8th of an inch extra means you've left it too late
> 1/16th of an inch means it's time to replace the chain
> and any less means it's still got some life

Sheldon says so, so it must be true.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

But if I change the chains early (1/16"), should I hang onto them, until
the sprockets wear down, and then start using all the part-worn chains,
discarding them at 1% wear (1/8") to avoid chainring damage?

That seems much more practical than swapping the chains every week/month
as a recent thread suggested.

> Please excuse the use of inch units in this post.

Chain link pairs are exactly 1", so its normal.