Looking to see if this can (reliably) be done -
I have a bike I use for only climbing events. I run a Sram XX1 crankset (156 Q factor) up front with a 28 or 30t ring, and in the rear I run a 10 speed cassette in 11-28 flavor.
On the worst climbing events I do, I'm in the 28t, trying to spin more than mash. I never need lower than a 1:1 gear, so I'm good with the actual gearing.
What I've noticed is the drag caused from being in those largest 2 cogs in the rear. I can hear it, and I got a little crazy Saturday and threw the bike up in a workstand and did some tests to see how much it was actually dragging, and I'd say it's significant based on sounds and the feel of things while pedaling by hand. I can't actually back spin the crank and not have it stop almost instantly, but yet in my middle/smaller cogs, I can give the pedals a push backwards and they go around nice and easy.
So I got to thinking that I'm losing a lot of wattage in that whole scenario, and I had this bright idea to simply shift the cassette towards the right (drive side), by removing the last 2 small cogs (sram cassette, mostly one piece), and putting the small cogs first onto the hub, then the cassette. Pretty much moving my largest cog outward, and making my chainline better in those gears. I don't use the 2 smallest cogs anyway, so figured I'd just rearrange. I had to use a small washer between my lockring and the cassette, but otherwise it was secure and good to go.
Problem is that the derailleur (Sram Red) isn't at the correct angle to do this and i'm getting some binding. I messed with the B-tension screw, the stop limits on the derailleur, can't get it to happen.
Is there any way I'm missing, that I can try, to make this possible?
Thanks,
10k
I have a bike I use for only climbing events. I run a Sram XX1 crankset (156 Q factor) up front with a 28 or 30t ring, and in the rear I run a 10 speed cassette in 11-28 flavor.
On the worst climbing events I do, I'm in the 28t, trying to spin more than mash. I never need lower than a 1:1 gear, so I'm good with the actual gearing.
What I've noticed is the drag caused from being in those largest 2 cogs in the rear. I can hear it, and I got a little crazy Saturday and threw the bike up in a workstand and did some tests to see how much it was actually dragging, and I'd say it's significant based on sounds and the feel of things while pedaling by hand. I can't actually back spin the crank and not have it stop almost instantly, but yet in my middle/smaller cogs, I can give the pedals a push backwards and they go around nice and easy.
So I got to thinking that I'm losing a lot of wattage in that whole scenario, and I had this bright idea to simply shift the cassette towards the right (drive side), by removing the last 2 small cogs (sram cassette, mostly one piece), and putting the small cogs first onto the hub, then the cassette. Pretty much moving my largest cog outward, and making my chainline better in those gears. I don't use the 2 smallest cogs anyway, so figured I'd just rearrange. I had to use a small washer between my lockring and the cassette, but otherwise it was secure and good to go.
Problem is that the derailleur (Sram Red) isn't at the correct angle to do this and i'm getting some binding. I messed with the B-tension screw, the stop limits on the derailleur, can't get it to happen.
Is there any way I'm missing, that I can try, to make this possible?
Thanks,
10k