Chainrings for 6-speed TRIPLE

[David]

I'm putting a triple crank on an OLD 10-speed (the kind with 5 cogs in
rear and 2 chainrings), and moving to a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel. I
never use big gears so the 52 or 53 tooth ring is a waste of aluminum;
I'll probably use a 45 or 46 as the big ring, with a 38 or 39 middle and
30 small (reconsidering the inner based on recent comment about going
smaller at front and getting rid of the big cog in rear).

Are ramps and pins on the rings critical in this setup? Do they just
make for smoother shifts, or do they prevent some sort of disaster that
is lurking 'tween the rings?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

David wrote:

> I'm putting a triple crank on an OLD 10-speed (the kind with 5 cogs in
> rear and 2 chainrings), and moving to a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel. I
> never use big gears so the 52 or 53 tooth ring is a waste of aluminum;
> I'll probably use a 45 or 46 as the big ring, with a 38 or 39 middle and
> 30 small (reconsidering the inner based on recent comment about going
> smaller at front and getting rid of the big cog in rear).
>
> Are ramps and pins on the rings critical in this setup? Do they just
> make for smoother shifts, or do they prevent some sort of disaster that
> is lurking 'tween the rings?

Ramps and pins are only "critical" for front indexing, which is fairly
pointless anyway. In fact, when my old thumbshifters died I had to fit
STX Rapidfire units to my old Cannondale MTB, which has DX chainrings
and front mech, being made before front indexing. Guess what...it works
fine. So maybe the ramps and pins aren't "critical" for anything.

 

[Michael Press]

In article <[email protected]>,
David <[email protected]> wrote:

> I'm putting a triple crank on an OLD 10-speed (the kind with 5 cogs in
> rear and 2 chainrings), and moving to a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel. I
> never use big gears so the 52 or 53 tooth ring is a waste of aluminum;
> I'll probably use a 45 or 46 as the big ring, with a 38 or 39 middle and
> 30 small (reconsidering the inner based on recent comment about going
> smaller at front and getting rid of the big cog in rear).

Good plan. A 26 tooth chain wheel will allow you to use a
xx->23 set of cogwheels on the rear wheel, thus giving you
a more closely spaced set of gears.

> Are ramps and pins on the rings critical in this setup? Do they just
> make for smoother shifts, or do they prevent some sort of disaster that
> is lurking 'tween the rings?

Ramps and pins are OK but not critical. One thing to watch
for is the chain falling all the way off the chain wheels
onto the bottom bracket when shifting onto the smallest
chain ring. Devices to prevent this can be clamped to the
down tube.

--
Michael Press

 

[RonSonic]

On Sun, 19 Feb 2006 10:58:23 -0600, David <[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm putting a triple crank on an OLD 10-speed (the kind with 5 cogs in
>rear and 2 chainrings), and moving to a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel. I
>never use big gears so the 52 or 53 tooth ring is a waste of aluminum;
>I'll probably use a 45 or 46 as the big ring, with a 38 or 39 middle and
>30 small (reconsidering the inner based on recent comment about going
>smaller at front and getting rid of the big cog in rear).

48-38-28 was a long time standard and is still in use on "hybrid" bikes should
work fine for you. Works great (still) on my old 3x6 mountain bike.

>Are ramps and pins on the rings critical in this setup? Do they just
>make for smoother shifts, or do they prevent some sort of disaster that
>is lurking 'tween the rings?

No, they just make "click and forget" index shifting easier on the mechanism. If
you're shifting with friction, and I'm sure you are, it won't make a difference.

Ron

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

David wrote:
> I'm putting a triple crank on an OLD 10-speed (the kind with 5 cogs in
> rear and 2 chainrings), and moving to a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel. I
> never use big gears so the 52 or 53 tooth ring is a waste of aluminum;
> I'll probably use a 45 or 46 as the big ring, with a 38 or 39 middle and
> 30 small (reconsidering the inner based on recent comment about going
> smaller at front and getting rid of the big cog in rear).
>
> Are ramps and pins on the rings critical in this setup? Do they just
> make for smoother shifts, or do they prevent some sort of disaster that
> is lurking 'tween the rings?

Makes for better shifts up the ring and off the ring when under pedal
load. If you still move your feet, but take the pedal perssure off,
they will shift fine. Remember, once upon a time, long, long ago(like
11 years), no chainrings had pins/ramps and goop on them.

>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[[email protected]]

David wrote:
> I'm putting a triple crank on an OLD 10-speed (the kind with 5 cogs in
> rear and 2 chainrings), and moving to a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel. I
> never use big gears so the 52 or 53 tooth ring is a waste of aluminum;
> I'll probably use a 45 or 46 as the big ring, with a 38 or 39 middle and
> 30 small (reconsidering the inner based on recent comment about going
> smaller at front and getting rid of the big cog in rear).
>
> Are ramps and pins on the rings critical in this setup? Do they just
> make for smoother shifts, or do they prevent some sort of disaster that
> is lurking 'tween the rings?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.

More or less repeating what others said. Ramps and pins help front
shifting. Necessary, no. Nice, yes.

Two possible triple cranks that will more or less come with the
chainrings you are after are 1. Nashbar brand triple hybrid crankset
with 48-38-28 rings for $75. Requires ISIS bottom bracket for $25 from
Nashbar.

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...and=&sku=11462&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

Or 2. Alfred E. Bike Sugino XD300 with 46-36-26 rings for $45. Needs
square taper bottom bracket, cheap from Nashbar or maybe Alfred E. Bike
too.

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=CR1033

 

[Hank Wirtz]

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>
> Or 2. Alfred E. Bike Sugino XD300 with 46-36-26 rings for $45. Needs
> square taper bottom bracket, cheap from Nashbar or maybe Alfred E. Bike
> too.
>
> http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=CR1033

The XD300 is the best crank deal in the universe. The rings will last
forever, they're smartly sized if you're not racing, and cheap enough (and
pretty enough) to buy 3 or 4 as wall art. I ran one with a 5-speed, and
later a 7-speed freewheel and a 6/7/8 speed chain, worked great.