changing hub bearings questions



zaku

New Member
Jun 23, 2004
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i'm thinking to change my specialized tri-spoke hub bearings. they appear to be using 6001 bearings (this is marked on the seal of the bearing). so i have a few questions..

1) are all 6001 bearings the same size (can i buy any bearing as long as it's a 6001)?

2) i've seen quite a price difference gap of the same bearing 6001 (on ebay) listed as for HED3 (more expensive) and for motorcycles/atv/scooter (for much cheaper). any difference??

3) are there any proper safe way to replace a bearing? is there something as a "bearing puller"?

thanks in advance for any info :)
 
zaku said:
i'm thinking to change my specialized tri-spoke hub bearings. they appear to be using 6001 bearings (this is marked on the seal of the bearing). so i have a few questions..

1) are all 6001 bearings the same size (can i buy any bearing as long as it's a 6001)?

2) i've seen quite a price difference gap of the same bearing 6001 (on ebay) listed as for HED3 (more expensive) and for motorcycles/atv/scooter (for much cheaper). any difference??

3) are there any proper safe way to replace a bearing? is there something as a "bearing puller"?
I'm looking at a 6001RS bearing that I took out of my "toolbox" ... the inner diamter is 12mm & the outer diamter is 28mm ...

I believe that ALL 6001 bearings ARE the same size (12mm Inner Diameter, 28mm Outer Diamter, 8mm Width) BUT the suffix means something different (i.e., the type of seal ... RS == "rubber seal") ... and, the cartridge may be sealed on one, both, no sides.

And, just as individual ball bearings are graded, cartridge bearings can also vary in quality (lack of resistance when under an actual load, for want of a better description) -- in one instance, the difference that I recall was a price factor of 5x; and, there were probably better, non-ceramic cartridge bearings available for even more money ... I do NOT know how the various grades of cartridge bearings are differentiated & designated.

Removing the bearings usually involves simply tapping them out slowly (from the 'back side') with something like a wooden dowl rod AFTER you remove the axle (ends).

Inserting them usually requires a PRESS to ensure they are seated properly ... but, sometimes you can simply press them in by-hand OR gently tap them in (HMmmm, probably not recommended) ...

BTW. Put a light coating of grease on the outside of the cartridges before you seat them.

To state the obvious, if the axle binds when it is re-inserted, then you will know the cartridges are somehow not seated properly! Conversely, if the axle doesn't bind, the bearigs are seated properly.

I would say that the most difficult part may be figuring out how the end caps are secured, but since you are looking at the seal on one bearing, you have passed that point of disassembly.

OF COURSE, you can always have your LBS replace the bearings for you ... just ask them if they are already familiar with your wheelset AND what grade of cartridge bearings you can choose from ... the labor will probably be much more than the cost of the bearings, regardless of the grade you opt for (except, ceramic).
 
alfeng said:
Snipped for length.

Removing the bearings usually involves simply tapping them out slowly (from the 'back side') with something like a wooden dowl rod AFTER you remove the axle (ends).

Inserting them usually requires a PRESS to ensure they are seated properly ... but, sometimes you can simply press them in by-hand OR gently tap them in (HMmmm, probably not recommended) ...

BTW. Put a light coating of grease on the outside of the cartridges before you seat them.

To state the obvious, if the axle binds when it is re-inserted, then you will know the cartridges are somehow not seated properly! Conversely, if the axle doesn't bind, the bearigs are seated properly.
Tapping them in is an option as long as you use a bearing installation tool. Basically this is just a pipe that has an OD only a couple of thousandths of an inch smaller than the OD of the outer bearing race. It should only contact the outer bearing race, not the seals or the inner race. I have also successfully used these with a c-clamp to press bearings in and seat them correctly.