cheapest entry level road bike
- Thread starter Calumlewis
- Start date
They're mostly all pretty good. I'm most familiar with the Trek 1, Scott Speedster, high-number Felt F and Z, and Specialized Allez and Secteur ranges. You can't go wrong with any of these, and I'm sure there are more. See Giant Jamis if they're available in your area.
I don't recommend the Fuji Newest range, but since Fujis are usually deeply discounted, the Roubaix series rates consideration.
I don't recommend the Fuji Newest range, but since Fujis are usually deeply discounted, the Roubaix series rates consideration.
FWIW. If your height falls in what many would consider to be the "normal" range (say 5'5" to 5'11"), then the-world-is-your-oyster ...
BUT, what is really important is deciding WHERE you are planning to ride ...
If you live in Florida OR if you are an urban dweller in the Midwest AND plan to ride on pavement then may-or-may-not be able to get by with a SINGLE SPEED bike (you may need to change the gearing based on your fitness level) ...
And, if you are about 5'7" +/- a couple of inches then you can possibly get by with WALLY WORLD'S Single Speed bike which appears to cost only $100!
- the downside of the WALLY WORLD SS is its mostly steel components (all of which can be replaced ... if your wallet allows) ... so, I'm guessing it weighs a hefty 24-to-28 lbs.
Of course, if you need multiple gears, then you will probably want a bike which has multiple gears OR be willing to walk up hills which are too steep to ride up.
That's actually a short way of saying that "entry level" is a really vague label which YOU need to clarify BECAUSE some people whom I know would think that an 105-or-Ultegra equipped bike (yeah, they are snobby with regard to bike components) is entry level bike whereas others would consider a bike with the fore mentioned components to be what they would want on their second-or-third-or-fourth purchase a few years hence ...
Determine your budget ... determine the terrain where you anticipate riding ... if you don't need gears, then you can save a lot of money AND you won't have to buy a WALLY WORLD bike if you don't want to.
What ever you do don't follow in my foot steps. I'm 6"-2" weighing about 230 and rode an all steel Murry for 20 years. When repairs were required to that bike last year, they'd cost twice what I paid for it and half of a new bike I was admiring. Bought the new Schwinn with the all aluminum frame and 21 speeds. Still trying to tune the bike to me. Need to replace the seat post with one that is longer and with a backwards bend. About to throw the seat over the back fence too. A year later starting to get a lot of "clicking" out of the rear drive train. Don't get me wrong I still like my bike but I would have done better by doing more research and going to a local bike store (LBS) to learn about the different aspects of getting the bike to fit me. I also need to better understand what are the better DE-railers.
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