Chinese Carbon Frames



I think I'm just about ready to jump on. Reading around a bit, I'm intrigued by the Planet X bikes. For $500, you get a CF frame and forks. Reviews have been positive.

I'm currently riding a 1977 (yup, you read that right) Trek 910 Columbus Steel/Campy dropout bike, relatively new Ritchey carbon threadless fork, Centaur, Open Pro wheels, and would want to move as much as I can to the Planet X. How much would making such a jump gain me? Is it just a matter of 800 grams, or is there more to it than that?

And is it worth it to lose my old semi-classic frame?
 
The new one will feel stiffer and more responsive, but that doesn't translate to much of a speed difference (since hill-climbing speed is proportional to the total weight of bike + rider). You'll probably feel like you switched from a family-sedan to a sports car, and you might enjoy the responsive handling, but with the same engine and virtually the same overall weight, not a lot is going to change vs the clock, particularly if you keep your old components and wheels.

Suggest you try to test ride a newer CF bike to see for yourself. You could swap with a buddy, or shop at the Trek store. Who knows, after a test ride you might prefer the more-relaxing handling of your vintage bike. IMO, it would be nice if you could afford to keep the old bike too.....everyone needs more than one bike anyway.
 
Like many of you, I recently succumbed to the lure of the budget, (presumably, as I don't know for sure) Chinese/Taiwanese made carbon frameset. The price was just too good to pass up. This is my first foray into this category of frameset. So I bought a 50cm Stradalli Milano Strada-PRO semi-sloping carbon frameset. It even has an Italian sounding name.....It's a full 3K carbon frame with full carbon fork, 1-1/8" to 1-1/5" taper integrated headset, BB30 bottom bracket, internal brake cable routing, alloy dropouts and came with a full carbon 31.6mm dia. seatpost and carbon saddle. I haven't built it up yet but on first impression, the finish is surprising good, on par with any of the well known, mass produced, brand name framesets out there. The fit and finish is good, the decals are properly under clearcoat and the carbon weave looks uniform and as good as my high priced, handmade Eddy Merckx MXM Carbon frameset. What's underneath could be world's apart but visually, the $900 frameset compares very well to the $3000+ frameset. The Stradalli also feels lighter than the Merckx. Stradalli Cycles Co. is apparently based in Pompano Beach, Florida, USA, but I can comfortably presume that the frameset was actually made in the Far East. Their website is www.stradalli.com

As for ride quality, I can only report once I finish the build and get some mileage on the bike. Time will tell how durable it is and how well it holds up. But so far, so impressed with the current generation of budget framesets. Truth be told, much of the "brand named" carbon and aluminum framesets, be they Italian, French, American, Canadian, etc. are actually made in the Far East, probably even in the same factories as the no name stuff.



 
Originally Posted by dhk2 .

The new one will feel stiffer and more responsive, but that doesn't translate to much of a speed difference (since hill-climbing speed is proportional to the total weight of bike + rider). You'll probably feel like you switched from a family-sedan to a sports car, and you might enjoy the responsive handling, but with the same engine and virtually the same overall weight, not a lot is going to change vs the clock, particularly if you keep your old components and wheels.

Suggest you try to test ride a newer CF bike to see for yourself. You could swap with a buddy, or shop at the Trek store. Who knows, after a test ride you might prefer the more-relaxing handling of your vintage bike. IMO, it would be nice if you could afford to keep the old bike too.....everyone needs more than one bike anyway.

Thanks for the quick reply; sorry for my slow one.

Yeah, I have two bikes. Since I'm 52, I had to resort to my "concession speech" bike -- I was never much of a climber anyway, but the passing of years hasn't exactly helped. But I do think I ride better now than when I was 30. The second bike is "just" a LeMond Reno -- AL frame, carbon forks -- that I've gone through. It came with Bontrager triple cranks, Alex wheels, a terrible seat, weird stem, Tiagra FD and shifters... I picked up a 105 triple crank, FD and BB for $72, some Ultegra 3*10 shifters, put on a Terry Ti Fly, a pair of 105/DT/Open Pro wheels for $180, brand new... Bike weighs at least 2 lbs lighter than stock. The crank/BB is about 200 grams lighter than the Bontrager. It's about 18 lbs and is faster than the Trek.

The Centaur is 10 speed; had the old steel frame spaced out 4mm to accomodate the Record Ti 10-speed hub. This bike weighs about 20.5 lbs. Taking off the original fork and quill stem saved nearly a pound.

Both pretty good (but not really racing) bikes. I don't really want to get rid of either bike, but if I had to choose, the old steel bike would be the one.

I'm interested in is the "[SIZE= 12px]Brand New Full Carbon 3K Weave Road Frameset Fork 57cm" sold by maniac_bicycle for $415. I believe I can get around $200 (that's about how much others like my steel Trek frame have sold for), and would need to face the BB (Ultra Torque; I'm being conservative), get a new Campy FD, and perhaps a few other items (tape, cables, etc) to put it together. I think it'd be worth it; I'm not sentimental about old cars/bikes/cameras that I've sold.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 12px]The other bike I've looked at is, believe it or not, the Sette that Price Point sells for about $900. That's a good looking frame. The only real reason I'd get that: 5 year warranty. And, I admit, it's prettier than the one maniac_bicycle sells.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 12px]Anyway, those are my thoughts. But if if all it's really going to do is lose 3 lbs, I just don't know. I'm pretty fit -- 6'1", about 175, and really can kick out a century pretty well. Recovering from Crohn's, so I'm happy I can really mash out a 70 mile ride in 3-1/2 hours (zero hospitalizations in 2010; about 3 in 2009 -- you haven't lived until you've had a blocked small intestine).[/SIZE]
 
Originally Posted by Tech72 .

Like many of you, I recently succumbed to the lure of the budget, (presumably, as I don't know for sure) Chinese/Taiwanese made carbon frameset. The price was just too good to pass up. This is my first foray into this category of frameset. So I bought a 50cm Stradalli Milano Strada-PRO semi-sloping carbon frameset. It even has an Italian sounding name.....It's a full 3K carbon frame with full carbon fork, 1-1/8" to 1-1/5" taper integrated headset, BB30 bottom bracket, internal brake cable routing, alloy dropouts and came with a full carbon 31.6mm dia. seatpost and carbon saddle. I haven't built it up yet but on first impression, the finish is surprising good, on par with any of the well known, mass produced, brand name framesets out there. The fit and finish is good, the decals are properly under clearcoat and the carbon weave looks uniform and as good as my high priced, handmade Eddy Merckx MXM Carbon frameset. What's underneath could be world's apart but visually, the $900 frameset compares very well to the $3000+ frameset. The Stradalli also feels lighter than the Merckx. Stradalli Cycles Co. is apparently based in Pompano Beach, Florida, USA, but I can comfortably presume that the frameset was actually made in the Far East. Their website is www.stradalli.com

As for ride quality, I can only report once I finish the build and get some mileage on the bike. Time will tell how durable it is and how well it holds up. But so far, so impressed with the current generation of budget framesets. Truth be told, much of the "brand named" carbon and aluminum framesets, be they Italian, French, American, Canadian, etc. are actually made in the Far East, probably even in the same factories as the no name stuff.

It looks really good in the photos, looking forward to a ride review /img/vbsmilies/smilies/cool.gif
 
Nice graphics - shame about the typo.

Shouldn't that be "High Modulus Carbon"?

 
Originally Posted by MikeM95831 .





Thanks for the quick reply; sorry for my slow one.

Yeah, I have two bikes. Since I'm 52, I had to resort to my "concession speech" bike -- I was never much of a climber anyway, but the passing of years hasn't exactly helped. But I do think I ride better now than when I was 30. The second bike is "just" a LeMond Reno -- AL frame, carbon forks -- that I've gone through. It came with Bontrager triple cranks, Alex wheels, a terrible seat, weird stem, Tiagra FD and shifters... I picked up a 105 triple crank, FD and BB for $72, some Ultegra 3*10 shifters, put on a Terry Ti Fly, a pair of 105/DT/Open Pro wheels for $180, brand new... Bike weighs at least 2 lbs lighter than stock. The crank/BB is about 200 grams lighter than the Bontrager. It's about 18 lbs and is faster than the Trek.

The Centaur is 10 speed; had the old steel frame spaced out 4mm to accomodate the Record Ti 10-speed hub. This bike weighs about 20.5 lbs. Taking off the original fork and quill stem saved nearly a pound.

Both pretty good (but not really racing) bikes. I don't really want to get rid of either bike, but if I had to choose, the old steel bike would be the one.

I'm interested in is the "[SIZE= 12px]Brand New Full Carbon 3K Weave Road Frameset Fork 57cm" sold by maniac_bicycle for $415. I believe I can get around $200 (that's about how much others like my steel Trek frame have sold for), and would need to face the BB (Ultra Torque; I'm being conservative), get a new Campy FD, and perhaps a few other items (tape, cables, etc) to put it together. I think it'd be worth it; I'm not sentimental about old cars/bikes/cameras that I've sold.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 12px]The other bike I've looked at is, believe it or not, the Sette that Price Point sells for about $900. That's a good looking frame. The only real reason I'd get that: 5 year warranty. And, I admit, it's prettier than the one maniac_bicycle sells.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 12px]Anyway, those are my thoughts. But if if all it's really going to do is lose 3 lbs, I just don't know. I'm pretty fit -- 6'1", about 175, and really can kick out a century pretty well. Recovering from Crohn's, so I'm happy I can really mash out a 70 mile ride in 3-1/2 hours (zero hospitalizations in 2010; about 3 in 2009 -- you haven't lived until you've had a blocked small intestine).[/SIZE]
If the frame has a carbon BB shell I wouldn't face it.

I'd recommend riding a bike that you're interested in. Small design changes make as much of a difference in ride quality and handling as the material does. I bought my Cannondale SuperSix Hi-Mod because of the ride not because of the weight, or lack thereof, but because of the ride qualities (near telepathic handling, comfort, vibration damping) as well as the massive out of the saddle stiffness in addition to having the correct geometry to put me in the position I desired. That I can feel somewhat less fatigued that I used too after knocking out 200 miles in the high sierras (8 passes, 21,000ft of climbing) on the Cannondale goes to prove that it's not just the material that's the "performance enhancement" - as my last frame was carbon and not a frame from an unknown manufacturer either.

Personally, unless you're knocking on 6% bodyfat or less I wouldn't become overly worried about bike weight - if you wanted to go a bit faster and have a bit of bling grab some used Zipp or HED wheels off ebay. Weight, unless you're going up monster hills >6% for miles on end, is overrated.

I've ridden a Cannondale CAAD 8 and 9 and they're great frames - not carbon but at the end of the day you shouldn't really care what the frame is made from - you should care more what the frame feels like to ride and how it fits. One of the things on the to-do list for this year is get rid of the other carbon frame I have and get a CAAD 8 or 9 frame and use that bike as a training/crit bike. The later generation CAAD frames are not as harsh as the CAAD4's - not that they were that bad to begin with. I've seen CAAD 8 bikes, complete for $899 and CAAD 9 with 105 10 speed for $1,100 complete.

Good to hear that the Crohns is getting better. Not sure what a blocked intestine is like - but is it as much fun as a hiatus hernia and puking up a fair amount of what looks like used engine oil (blood) at the end of a hard time trial?
 
Good eye Swampy. I was perplexed at the spelling when I got the frameset as well. I thought it was one of those Chinglish spelling mistakes. Looking up the spelling in the dictionary though, apparently both "modulus" and "modulas" are correct, depending on where in the world you are. Like "aluminum" or "aluminium".

Personally, my understanding of the correct spelling is "modulus". Unfortunately, the factory decal is under clearcoat. I've been hunting for a large enough decal to cover up the "mispelling" on the frame.



Quote:
Originally Posted by swampy1970 .

Nice graphics - shame about the typo.

Shouldn't that be "High Modulus Carbon"?

 
Originally Posted by swampy1970 .



Quote: Originally Posted by MikeM95831 .





Thanks for the quick reply; sorry for my slow one.

Yeah, I have two bikes. Since I'm 52, I had to resort to my "concession speech" bike -- I was never much of a climber anyway, but the passing of years hasn't exactly helped. But I do think I ride better now than when I was 30. The second bike is "just" a LeMond Reno -- AL frame, carbon forks -- that I've gone through. It came with Bontrager triple cranks, Alex wheels, a terrible seat, weird stem, Tiagra FD and shifters... I picked up a 105 triple crank, FD and BB for $72, some Ultegra 3*10 shifters, put on a Terry Ti Fly, a pair of 105/DT/Open Pro wheels for $180, brand new... Bike weighs at least 2 lbs lighter than stock. The crank/BB is about 200 grams lighter than the Bontrager. It's about 18 lbs and is faster than the Trek.

The Centaur is 10 speed; had the old steel frame spaced out 4mm to accomodate the Record Ti 10-speed hub. This bike weighs about 20.5 lbs. Taking off the original fork and quill stem saved nearly a pound.

Both pretty good (but not really racing) bikes. I don't really want to get rid of either bike, but if I had to choose, the old steel bike would be the one.

I'm interested in is the "[SIZE= 12px]Brand New Full Carbon 3K Weave Road Frameset Fork 57cm" sold by maniac_bicycle for $415. I believe I can get around $200 (that's about how much others like my steel Trek frame have sold for), and would need to face the BB (Ultra Torque; I'm being conservative), get a new Campy FD, and perhaps a few other items (tape, cables, etc) to put it together. I think it'd be worth it; I'm not sentimental about old cars/bikes/cameras that I've sold.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 12px]The other bike I've looked at is, believe it or not, the Sette that Price Point sells for about $900. That's a good looking frame. The only real reason I'd get that: 5 year warranty. And, I admit, it's prettier than the one maniac_bicycle sells.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 12px]Anyway, those are my thoughts. But if if all it's really going to do is lose 3 lbs, I just don't know. I'm pretty fit -- 6'1", about 175, and really can kick out a century pretty well. Recovering from Crohn's, so I'm happy I can really mash out a 70 mile ride in 3-1/2 hours (zero hospitalizations in 2010; about 3 in 2009 -- you haven't lived until you've had a blocked small intestine).[/SIZE]
If the frame has a carbon BB shell I wouldn't face it.

I'd recommend riding a bike that you're interested in. Small design changes make as much of a difference in ride quality and handling as the material does. I bought my Cannondale SuperSix Hi-Mod because of the ride not because of the weight, or lack thereof, but because of the ride qualities (near telepathic handling, comfort, vibration damping) as well as the massive out of the saddle stiffness in addition to having the correct geometry to put me in the position I desired. That I can feel somewhat less fatigued that I used too after knocking out 200 miles in the high sierras (8 passes, 21,000ft of climbing) on the Cannondale goes to prove that it's not just the material that's the "performance enhancement" - as my last frame was carbon and not a frame from an unknown manufacturer either.

Personally, unless you're knocking on 6% bodyfat or less I wouldn't become overly worried about bike weight - if you wanted to go a bit faster and have a bit of bling grab some used Zipp or HED wheels off ebay. Weight, unless you're going up monster hills >6% for miles on end, is overrated.

I've ridden a Cannondale CAAD 8 and 9 and they're great frames - not carbon but at the end of the day you shouldn't really care what the frame is made from - you should care more what the frame feels like to ride and how it fits. One of the things on the to-do list for this year is get rid of the other carbon frame I have and get a CAAD 8 or 9 frame and use that bike as a training/crit bike. The later generation CAAD frames are not as harsh as the CAAD4's - not that they were that bad to begin with. I've seen CAAD 8 bikes, complete for $899 and CAAD 9 with 105 10 speed for $1,100 complete.

Good to hear that the Crohns is getting better. Not sure what a blocked intestine is like - but is it as much fun as a hiatus hernia and puking up a fair amount of what looks like used engine oil (blood) at the end of a hard time trial?



The Crohn's will never go away; it's a life-shortener. But the longer I can go between the original diagnosis and my first surgery, the better the prognosis.

During my last attack, I told my GI that the only worse thing I could imagine was having my arm ripped off in an industrial accident. "Actually...", he said to me.

Yup, it's worse; lots of nerve endings in your gut. Now you have some perspective. I came very close to copious amounts of projectile vomiting on a packed light rail train. That would have been extremely bad.

One thing I've learned having both the Trek and the LeMond is that the LeMond is longer in the front and tighter in the rear, and it's more laterally stiff. That's the real reason I'm faster on it. Now that I have the Reno, I can see just how much too short the Trek is for me. I like being laid out on the bike now. It felt really awkward and "big" at first, but not any more; now I feel hunched up on the Trek. If I get another frame, three factors will come into play: Position/Geometry, weight savings, lateral stiffness and "bling." Wait, that's four things. Oh well, I'm not going to shorten my list.

Another thing that's important to me on these eBay/Alibaba frames is warranty. I asked one guy, and he said 8 months. I'm not going to get rid of a bike I've had for nearly 35 years (on which, incredibly, Trek still honors the lifetime warranties) in favor of a no-name with no warranty... Or a 5 year old Giant that I think people have bid too much for.
 
Originally Posted by Tech72 .


Good eye Swampy. I was perplexed at the spelling when I got the frameset as well. I thought it was one of those Chinglish spelling mistakes. Looking up the spelling in the dictionary though, apparently both "modulus" and "modulas" are correct, depending on where in the world you are. Like "aluminum" or "aluminium".

Personally, my understanding of the correct spelling is "modulus". Unfortunately, the factory decal is under clearcoat. I've been hunting for a large enough decal to cover up the "mispelling" on the frame.


While we're on spelling, shouldn't "Stradalli" be one L, as in the italian for "streets"?
 
Not sure of the origin of "Stradalli". It could be an Italo-USenglish spelling thing. Add an extra "l" to make the word sound more interesting, or maybe it's named after an actual person/family. Perhaps it's a play-on-word of sorts, like Cervelo. For answers to these questions and other life mysteries, contact the manufacturer/vendor directly. I'm not Italian.
Originally Posted by dhk2 .



Quote:
While we're on spelling, shouldn't "Stradalli" be one L, as in the italian for "streets"?
 
Well, I noted in a different thread that I rode a Fuji SL-1. Full SRAM, Aksium wheels.

I didn't like it. The price was right; $1,400, brand new (originally $2,500). LBS closeout, even in my size. And I didn't like it.

Why? Too harsh. And I say that as someone with an AL bike.

I know Aksiums are "price-leader" wheels, but I don't think that accounts for everything. I'm used to 105/DT/Open Pro on the AL bike, and Record Ti/DT/Open Pro on the steel bike. Three cross. Pretty conservative, and I know they're better than Aksiums.

So what's my point? You have to try before you buy. That's something else I'm now wary of, if I buy a Chinese CF frame from eBay. What if I don't like it? Well, too bad.

I think one of us enterprising individuals needs to go into the retail business. Buy about 10 frames at a time, and build 'em up. Recommend that people ride them first. Mark 'em up about 150%; if you like them, they're still a great deal. But... Isn't that what your LBS already does?
 
Mini Pumps vs. Full Size Pumps Do you prefer convenience or durability? Which is more important to you: price or reliability? Finally, do you love the movie Transformers? Your answers to these questions can help you in your search for the right bike pump. As you probably know by now, bike pumps come in all shapes and sizes. These varieties can be generalized into two main categories: Mini-pumps/Pocket pumps and Floor/Full Size pumps. Let’s compare these two main types of bike pump, considering their size, durability, ease of use, and price. Size Some pumps are small enough to fit in the pouch under your seat or in your pocket, while others can attach to your bike frame. Being able to have your pump with you at all times while you ride can be useful, for obvious reasons. Full size floor pumps are far more efficient. If you have a small, hand operated pump, you will be pumping up your bike tube for a long time. However, you can get a bike tube pumped up in less than a minute with a good full size pump. Durability Some mini-pumps have a lot of moving parts, much like a Transformer toy. You often need to unfold this part and click that part into place in order to get your pump ready for use. With all of these moving parts, breakage is not uncommon. Also, the small, CO2-powered pumps have to have their cartridge replaced after each use. Full size pumps, unless they’re dirt cheap, are usually far more durable than smaller pumps. They are often made of metal and have fewer moving parts that can be broken off. What is more, since you are pumping far less due to their efficiency, the wear and tear on full size pumps is considerably less. Ease of Use If you have a pocket pump or some other small pump, it can often be difficult to figure out how to get a good connection between it and the tube’s valve stem. In fact, some of them have levers that are counter-intuitive, meaning that to tighten the connection you pull the lever out, rather than pushing it in. With the connection in place, these pumps are simple enough, despite the fact that small hand pumps will tire out your pumping arm pretty fast! Full size pumps are straightforward. You attach the hose to the valve, pressing the lever tightly down, and then you pump. They are even simpler to use if they have a gauge, so that you can be sure your tire pressure is right on. Thanks, Jason K. http://www.bikepumps.org/
 
Forget the CO2 cartridges, forget the mini frame pumps. Go with either of the two best frame pumps ever made. Both are full size, durable, reliable, high pressure, easy to use, rebuildable, available in colors for every taste and lasts forever.

Silca Impero w/ Campagnolo head.
Zefal HP

Case closed.
 
Originally Posted by Tech72 .


I thought it was one of those Chinglish spelling mistakes. Looking up the spelling in the dictionary though, apparently both "modulus" and "modulas" are correct, depending on where in the world you are. Like "aluminum" or "aluminium".
This gets my pedant self going. "Modulus" is taken directly from the Latin and is never spelt "modulas". "Aluminum" is the original spelling of the newly-discovered metal and is a modern word.
 
Originally Posted by Tech72 .

Forget the CO2 cartridges, forget the mini frame pumps. Go with either of the two best frame pumps ever made. Both are full size, durable, reliable, high pressure, easy to use, rebuildable, available in colors for every taste and lasts forever.

Silca Impero w/ Campagnolo head.
Zefal HP

Case closed.
I'm a big fan of C02 cartridges! I think mini pumps are a waste of time tho /img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif
 
Good luck with that. I'm not the one to untie your knot.

Originally Posted by artemidorus .



Quote: Originally Posted by Tech72 .


I thought it was one of those Chinglish spelling mistakes. Looking up the spelling in the dictionary though, apparently both "modulus" and "modulas" are correct, depending on where in the world you are. Like "aluminum" or "aluminium".
This gets my pedant self going. "Modulus" is taken directly from the Latin and is never spelt "modulas". "Aluminum" is the original spelling of the newly-discovered metal and is a modern word.
 
Originally Posted by steve .



Quote: Originally Posted by Tech72 .

Forget the CO2 cartridges, forget the mini frame pumps. Go with either of the two best frame pumps ever made. Both are full size, durable, reliable, high pressure, easy to use, rebuildable, available in colors for every taste and lasts forever.

Silca Impero w/ Campagnolo head.
Zefal HP

Case closed.
I'm a big fan of C02 cartridges! I think mini pumps are a waste of time tho /img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif

I carry both...the Topeak Morph pump and 3 cartridges.... I start with the pump, switch to CO2 and finish with the pump. I've blown too many tubes using just the CO2.
My problem has always been: who makes full-size frame pump to fit funny shaped carbon tubes? I tried one from blackburn but I could not attached it securely to my frame...
 
Originally Posted by Tech72 .


Good luck with that. I'm not the one to untie your knot.

Quote: Originally Posted by artemidorus .



Quote: Originally Posted by Tech72 .


I thought it was one of those Chinglish spelling mistakes. Looking up the spelling in the dictionary though, apparently both "modulus" and "modulas" are correct, depending on where in the world you are. Like "aluminum" or "aluminium".
This gets my pedant self going. "Modulus" is taken directly from the Latin and is never spelt "modulas". "Aluminum" is the original spelling of the newly-discovered metal and is a modern word.




Not specific to your post, but I thought I'd go back to the original topic: chinese frames.
I can report on almost 2 years of use and have only one big issue. A few weeks ago i was descending at about 45-50 MPH and the bike started to shake violently (front end shimmying?). I mean, the front end was going one way and the rear was going in the opposite direction; I could feel it. It was very windy (heavy cross winds) and I have bladed spokes. I was lucky to be able to control the bike by pressing my knees on the top tube but it scared the heck out me... this has never happened on my TCR and this is the first time I've gone that fast on my chinese frame since it's really my off-day bike. Afterwards, i noticed that one of the side velcro straps on my saddle bag was totally unattached so it had been "swinging sideways" while I was descending, so it may triggered the shimmying but I don't know and i don't want to replicate the event. I also checked the head set and it was fine but I did find that my front wheel had a "little play" so I tightened the skewer even more. Now, i have doubts about the frame design but maybe I'm being too concerned since there were several factors at play.

Advice?
 
Originally Posted by steve .
I'm a big fan of C02 cartridges! I think mini pumps are a waste of time tho /img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif


Yep, same here! /img/vbsmilies/smilies/cool.gif