Chris King no-threadset on carbon steerer, o-ring troubles



P

Pete Grey

Guest
I could try getting some o-rings, any idea how to accurately measure the
existing one?

I put on a LOT of grease this time, no additional success.

I have to admit, I'm very hesitant to start sanding down the carbon fiber
steerer. It looks pretty thin as it is and I'm not sure how much tolerance
there is for taking material off...

-pete

"jim beam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Pete Grey wrote:
>> When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it
>> is, but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same
>> deal.
>>
>> It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the
>> instructions from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was
>> actually on the smaller side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly
>> enough...
>>
>> I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

>
> technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components are
> the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance this
> one is out of tolerance.
>
>
>> but the King guy doesn't seem to think so, or to try and resolve it by
>> checking that...
>> I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

>
> persist!
>
> o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
> few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
> it'll go at some point.
>
> * when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up and
> down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth and as
> uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be selective, not
> indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the grease.
>
>
>
>>
>> -pete
>>
>> <raelwelcome> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>> "Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
>>>> on a bike I'm building.
>>>> This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
>>>> half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.
>>>>
>>>> The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
>>>> the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
>>>> and that's it, by hand.
>>>>
>>>> I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
>>>> crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
>>>> further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
>>>> headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
>>>> play to even adjust?
>>>>
>>>> Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
>>>> lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.
>>>>
>>>> This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
>>>> I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
>>>> the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> -pete
>>>>
>>>>
>>> You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
>>> remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

>>
 
L

Lou Holtman

Guest
Pete Grey wrote:
> I could try getting some o-rings, any idea how to accurately measure the
> existing one?
>
> I put on a LOT of grease this time, no additional success.
>
> I have to admit, I'm very hesitant to start sanding down the carbon fiber
> steerer. It looks pretty thin as it is and I'm not sure how much tolerance
> there is for taking material off...




On all my bikes with a CK headset I find that the ring is a very tight
fit on the steerer.
Do you have the possibility to measure the inner diameter of the O-ring
when it is in the groove of top cap with a workshop microscope
(contactless)? It can't be compressed much when it is restrained in the
groove. If all else fail, bring it to a machine shop to enlarge the
diameter of the groove.

Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)
 
L

Lou Holtman

Guest
Pete Grey wrote:
> I could try getting some o-rings, any idea how to accurately measure the
> existing one?
>
> I put on a LOT of grease this time, no additional success.
>
> I have to admit, I'm very hesitant to start sanding down the carbon fiber
> steerer. It looks pretty thin as it is and I'm not sure how much tolerance
> there is for taking material off...




On all my bikes with a CK headset I find that the ring is a very tight
fit on the steerer.
Do you have the possibility to measure the inner diameter of the O-ring
when it is in the groove of top cap with a workshop microscope
(contactless)? It can't be compressed much when it is restrained in the
groove. If all else fail, bring it to a machine shop to enlarge the
diameter of the groove.

Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)
 
P

Pete Grey

Guest
I think I've figured it out.
I believe my top-cap is slightly out-of-round. King had me measure my
steerer, and it nearly perfectly round, on several points of the steerer,
and all <=1.125".
However, I took a King top-cap off another bike, and was able to install it
by hand, with a good amount of force, but by hand all the way down the
steerer.

I ordered a new top-cap from King, should get here tomorrow or Friday.

-pete

"Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
>I could try getting some o-rings, any idea how to accurately measure the
>existing one?
>
> I put on a LOT of grease this time, no additional success.
>
> I have to admit, I'm very hesitant to start sanding down the carbon fiber
> steerer. It looks pretty thin as it is and I'm not sure how much
> tolerance there is for taking material off...
>
> -pete
>
> "jim beam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> Pete Grey wrote:
>>> When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it
>>> is, but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same
>>> deal.
>>>
>>> It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the
>>> instructions from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was
>>> actually on the smaller side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly
>>> enough...
>>>
>>> I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

>>
>> technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components
>> are the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance
>> this one is out of tolerance.
>>
>>
>>> but the King guy doesn't seem to think so, or to try and resolve it by
>>> checking that...
>>> I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

>>
>> persist!
>>
>> o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
>> few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
>> it'll go at some point.
>>
>> * when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up and
>> down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth and
>> as uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be selective,
>> not indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the grease.
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> -pete
>>>
>>> <raelwelcome> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]
>>>> "Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
>>>>> on a bike I'm building.
>>>>> This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
>>>>> half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.
>>>>>
>>>>> The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
>>>>> the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
>>>>> and that's it, by hand.
>>>>>
>>>>> I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
>>>>> crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
>>>>> further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
>>>>> headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
>>>>> play to even adjust?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
>>>>> lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.
>>>>>
>>>>> This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
>>>>> I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
>>>>> the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> -pete
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
>>>> remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?
>>>

>
 
P

Pete Grey

Guest
I think I've figured it out.
I believe my top-cap is slightly out-of-round. King had me measure my
steerer, and it nearly perfectly round, on several points of the steerer,
and all <=1.125".
However, I took a King top-cap off another bike, and was able to install it
by hand, with a good amount of force, but by hand all the way down the
steerer.

I ordered a new top-cap from King, should get here tomorrow or Friday.

-pete

"Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
>I could try getting some o-rings, any idea how to accurately measure the
>existing one?
>
> I put on a LOT of grease this time, no additional success.
>
> I have to admit, I'm very hesitant to start sanding down the carbon fiber
> steerer. It looks pretty thin as it is and I'm not sure how much
> tolerance there is for taking material off...
>
> -pete
>
> "jim beam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> Pete Grey wrote:
>>> When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it
>>> is, but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same
>>> deal.
>>>
>>> It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the
>>> instructions from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was
>>> actually on the smaller side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly
>>> enough...
>>>
>>> I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

>>
>> technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components
>> are the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance
>> this one is out of tolerance.
>>
>>
>>> but the King guy doesn't seem to think so, or to try and resolve it by
>>> checking that...
>>> I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

>>
>> persist!
>>
>> o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
>> few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
>> it'll go at some point.
>>
>> * when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up and
>> down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth and
>> as uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be selective,
>> not indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the grease.
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> -pete
>>>
>>> <raelwelcome> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]
>>>> "Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
>>>>> on a bike I'm building.
>>>>> This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
>>>>> half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.
>>>>>
>>>>> The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
>>>>> the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
>>>>> and that's it, by hand.
>>>>>
>>>>> I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
>>>>> crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
>>>>> further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
>>>>> headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
>>>>> play to even adjust?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
>>>>> lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.
>>>>>
>>>>> This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
>>>>> I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
>>>>> the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> -pete
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
>>>> remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?
>>>

>
 
jim beam wrote:
> Pete Grey wrote:
> > When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it is,
> > but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same deal.
> >
> > It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the instructions
> > from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was actually on the smaller
> > side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly enough...
> >
> > I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

>
> technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components
> are the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance
> this one is out of tolerance.
>
>
> > but the King guy doesn't seem
> > to think so, or to try and resolve it by checking that...
> > I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

>
> persist!
>
> o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
> few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
> it'll go at some point.
>
> * when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up
> and down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth
> and as uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be
> selective, not indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the
> grease.
>
>
>
> >
> > -pete
> >
> > <raelwelcome> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]
> >> "Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in
> >> news:[email protected]:
> >>
> >>> I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
> >>> on a bike I'm building.
> >>> This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
> >>> half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.
> >>>
> >>> The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
> >>> the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
> >>> and that's it, by hand.
> >>>
> >>> I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
> >>> crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
> >>> further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
> >>> headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
> >>> play to even adjust?
> >>>
> >>> Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
> >>> lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.
> >>>
> >>> This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
> >>> I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
> >>> the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> -pete
> >>>
> >>>
> >> You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
> >> remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

> >
> >


Have you ever had your face spackled with *********?
 
jim beam wrote:
> Pete Grey wrote:
> > When I was first setting up to cut the fork it wasn't in there. Now it is,
> > but the cap wouldn't budge prior to installing the plug either, same deal.
> >
> > It's a Real Designs: Signature HP. I've measured it as per the instructions
> > from the Chris King customer service guy, and it was actually on the smaller
> > side of their diameter tolerances, interestingly enough...
> >
> > I think my o-ring groove is probably mis-cut,

>
> technically possible, but in reality, most unlikely. these components
> are the product of high quality automation - there's very little chance
> this one is out of tolerance.
>
>
> > but the King guy doesn't seem
> > to think so, or to try and resolve it by checking that...
> > I'm at a bit of a loss at this point.

>
> persist!
>
> o-rings are cheap and abundant - you can probably buy a bag of 100 for a
> few bucks. sand down the tube a little*, and use more silicone grease.
> it'll go at some point.
>
> * when sanding, look for "high points". do this by rubbing a stem up
> and down and seeing where it abrades. repeat until the shaft is smooth
> and as uniform as possible. try not to reduce it in diameter - be
> selective, not indiscriminate. once the o-ring is on, wipe off all the
> grease.
>
>
>
> >
> > -pete
> >
> > <raelwelcome> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]
> >> "Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in
> >> news:[email protected]:
> >>
> >>> I'm having a bit of a battle with getting the top-cap over the steerer
> >>> on a bike I'm building.
> >>> This isn't my first King headset install, I've done maybe a
> >>> half-dozen, plus many other headset installs.
> >>>
> >>> The darn o-ring is simply too tight. As in WAY too tight. I can get
> >>> the cap maybe 2-3mm down the steerer (put a nice bevel on it already),
> >>> and that's it, by hand.
> >>>
> >>> I can't budge it with a rubber mallet. I can move it by using my
> >>> crown race setting tool, but it takes quite a tap to get it to move
> >>> further down. Given that, I suspect I won't be able to adjust the
> >>> headset even if I can get it snugged down, as there wouldn't be any
> >>> play to even adjust?
> >>>
> >>> Any ideas? I've tried greasing the o-ring and steerer, also silicone
> >>> lube on both. Same results with either, not going anywhere fast.
> >>>
> >>> This headset was on the exact same frame fork model# awhile back, but
> >>> I got hit and it bent my headtube so I got a new fork to be safe on
> >>> the rebuild. I'm puzzled, any help would be greatly appreciated....
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> -pete
> >>>
> >>>
> >> You did not say if the compression plug is in the steer tube. If so
> >> remove and see if it works. Just an idea. What type/brand fork?

> >
> >


Have you ever had your face spackled with *********?