Cleaning Glue off of Tire Sidewalls?



Robin Hubert writes:

>>>> If your humor requires symbols and tea leaves to discover, it is
>>>> missing its goal. With the amount of standard bicycle beliefs
>>>> you put forth on occasions, some of the quips seem consistent
>>>> with the rest of the things you post. If you get misunderstood,
>>>> maybe you should review your writing rather than push it off to
>>>> reader error. Aging tubulars falls in the same category as
>>>> belief in tread patterns (directional no less) for road tires. I
>>>> don't believe all the supporters of that subject are joking
>>>> either.


>>> Regardless of the tread pattern, I always mount my tubulars with
>>> the decals on the drive side.


>> That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
>> side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can
>> see where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires
>> from the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.


> Strange. I might be daft but I must ask, how is the direction of
> tire mounting affected by the sprockets? Regardless of which side
> from which I've mounted tires, the sprockets have never been
> involved.


If your tires and tubes naturally levitate away from the rear wheel,
then they won't touch the sprockets and holding the wheel by that side
will never allow contact with the gear cluster. However, with most
bicycles, dropping the tire or tube across the side of the wheel is a
possibility that occurs.

The same goes for wheeling your bicycle while walking, if you have the
bicycle to your right, chances are you can get some chain goo on your
leg.

>> What is the reason for your choice?


[email protected]
 
On 05/25/2005 09:15 PM, in article [email protected],
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:


> The same goes for wheeling your bicycle while walking, if you have the
> bicycle to your right, chances are you can get some chain goo on your
> leg.



Your bikes have a left-hand drive?

When I have my bike to the right, I have a bicycle frame between me and the
chainset, which does wonders in preventing chain goo from getting on my
legs.



--
Steven L. Sheffield
stevens at veloworks dot com
bellum pax est libertas servitus est ignoratio vis est
ess ay ell tea ell ay kay ee sea eye tee why you ti ay aitch
aitch tee tea pea colon [for word] slash [four ward] slash double-you
double-yew double-ewe dot veloworks dot com [foreword] slash
 
Mike Jacoubowsky <[email protected]> wrote:
>When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of glue on
>the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps overnight).


The rim layer is critical, the tire layer is optional. Bike shops
probably have to do both, just for lawyers, but I don't want to have
to use a screwdriver just to get a tire off the rim.

Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to them
beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is one of
those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for 20 to 40
minutes, and mount the tire.

--
Roger Marquis
http://www.roble.net/marquis/
 
Roger Marquis wrote:

>
> The rim layer is critical, the tire layer is optional. Bike shops
> probably have to do both, just for lawyers, but I don't want to have
> to use a screwdriver just to get a tire off the rim.
>
> Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to them
> beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is one of
> those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for 20 to 40
> minutes, and mount the tire.
>
> --
> Roger Marquis
> http://www.roble.net/marquis/


Insanity!!

Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire roll.
 
Qui si parla Campagnolo <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to them
>> beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is one of
>> those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for 20 to 40
>> minutes, and mount the tire.

>
>
>Insanity!!
>
>Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire roll.


In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex over
its base tape.

The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then only
with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent fumes from
drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base tape adhesion.
It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.

If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
_very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.

--
Roger Marquis
http://www.roble.net/marquis/
 
Roger Marquis writes:

>>> Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to
>>> them beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is
>>> one of those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for
>>> 20 to 40 minutes, and mount the tire.


>> Insanity!!


>> Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire
>> roll.


> In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
> clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
> that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
> Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex over
> its base tape.


OK, so your an old fart and still don't know what kind of base tape
you are looking at.

> The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then only
> with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent fumes from
> drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base tape adhesion.
> It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.


aka "porous"

"porus/unsealed base tapes" are ones on which hard glue or shellac can
be used. These adhesives do not hold on coated base tapes but then
few people use "Tipo Pista" hard glue. Just the same, tire
manufacturers give the user the option by offering bare cloth base tapes.

> If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
> _very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
> like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.


"Very" is a useless word in this and most contexts because it is ill
defined and dilutes the adverb/adjective it modifies. Get with
quantifiable dimensions.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/mounting-tubulars.html

[email protected]
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Roger Marquis writes:
>
> >>> Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to
> >>> them beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is
> >>> one of those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for
> >>> 20 to 40 minutes, and mount the tire.

>
> >> Insanity!!

>
> >> Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire
> >> roll.

>
> > In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
> > clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
> > that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
> > Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex over
> > its base tape.

>
> OK, so your an old fart and still don't know what kind of base tape
> you are looking at.
>
> > The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then only
> > with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent fumes from
> > drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base tape adhesion.
> > It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.

>
> aka "porous"
>
> "porus/unsealed base tapes" are ones on which hard glue or shellac can
> be used. These adhesives do not hold on coated base tapes but then
> few people use "Tipo Pista" hard glue. Just the same, tire
> manufacturers give the user the option by offering bare cloth base tapes.
>
> > If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
> > _very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
> > like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.

>
> "Very" is a useless word in this and most contexts because it is ill
> defined and dilutes the adverb/adjective it modifies. Get with
> quantifiable dimensions.
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/mounting-tubulars.html


Sheldon Brown is wrong. My experience is that the best bond between
tire and rim occurs when the last layer of glue is still relatively wet
upon application. (Yes, it is more messy.) This dovetails with
Marquis's experience that the glue layer on the tire is probably
unnecessary. A layer of wet cement will soak into the base tape more
uniformly and improve the bond; the dry "contact cement" does not have
the benefit of glue flow to increasive the effective adhesive surface.
(Effective adhesive surface is defined operationally as surface with
glue on it that is actually adhering to the mating tire surface.)

(Brown's comments are also obsolete about different tubular cement
brands.)

The sticky pregluing of the base tape is a good idea for a spare tire,
but treating contemporary tubular tire glue as a purely contact cement
does not create the strongest bond.

I don't have numbers on how much force is required to remove a tire
using these two methods, but I do know that the wet layer bond using
Vittoria Mastik is extremely difficult to break by hand (on the road I
usually pull out an allen wrench that I work under the tire, but I'm
thinking about carrying an aluminum tire lever, if I can find one, for
that purpose), while the contact cement method is easily pried off by
hand. That is an objective observation.

Would be interested to see a test of the difference in rolling
resistance between the two gluing methods. Given your own test results
20+ years ago comparing road and track glues, it seems a certainty to
me that contemporary road glue, used in combination with gluing
technique designed to give the strongest bond (as opposed to being
easily removable in case of a flat), is almost certain to result in the
least rolling resistance.

I wouldn't be calling someone an "old fart" if I were you.
 
someone sniped anonymously:

>>>>> Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to
>>>>> them beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is
>>>>> one of those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for
>>>>> 20 to 40 minutes, and mount the tire.


>>>> Insanity!!


>>>> Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the
>>>> tire=tire roll.


>>> In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
>>> clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
>>> that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
>>> Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex
>>> over its base tape.


>> OK, so your an old fart and still don't know what kind of base tape
>> you are looking at.


>>> The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then
>>> only with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent
>>> fumes from drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base
>>> tape adhesion. It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.


>> aka "porous"


>> "porus/unsealed base tapes" are ones on which hard glue or shellac
>> can be used. These adhesives do not hold on coated base tapes but
>> then few people use "Tipo Pista" hard glue. Just the same, tire
>> manufacturers give the user the option by offering bare cloth base
>> tapes.


>>> If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
>>> _very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
>>> like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.


>> "Very" is a useless word in this and most contexts because it is
>> ill defined and dilutes the adverb/adjective it modifies. Get with
>> quantifiable dimensions.


>> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/mounting-tubulars.html


> Sheldon Brown is wrong.


I guess you can't read but the piece cited isn't from Sheldon Brown.
He only furnishes the web space for that article.

> My experience is that the best bond between tire and rim occurs when
> the last layer of glue is still relatively wet upon application.
> (Yes, it is more messy.) This dovetails with Marquis's experience
> that the glue layer on the tire is probably unnecessary. A layer of
> wet cement will soak into the base tape more uniformly and improve
> the bond; the dry "contact cement" does not have the benefit of glue
> flow to increasive the effective adhesive surface. (Effective
> adhesive surface is defined operationally as surface with glue on it
> that is actually adhering to the mating tire surface.)


I guess if you never brake hard enough to heat your rims you may have
had that experience, but pressure sensitive glues are mobile and
squirm all over so that the tire seats where it sinks in under
flexing. If you inspect old rims, you will see that the glue is full
of aluminum oxide, the grey color and that the base tape of the tire
eroded the aluminum rim.

> (Brown's comments are also obsolete about different tubular cement
> brands.)


They are not "Brown's comments' and the glues mentioned are similar to
other favorite brands. Besides they are still on the rare item
market.

> The sticky pregluing of the base tape is a good idea for a spare
> tire, but treating contemporary tubular tire glue as a purely
> contact cement does not create the strongest bond.


I don't think you ride tubulars or you would have plenty of used tires
that have glue on them. The way you describe this, it seems you
theoretically take a new tire along as a spare. People who ride
tubulars don't follow that regimen.

> I don't have numbers on how much force is required to remove a tire
> using these two methods, but I do know that the wet layer bond using
> Vittoria Mastik is extremely difficult to break by hand (on the road
> I usually pull out an allen wrench that I work under the tire, but
> I'm thinking about carrying an aluminum tire lever, if I can find
> one, for that purpose), while the contact cement method is easily
> pried off by hand. That is an objective observation.


Who gives a hoot how much force. The glue only prevents tire creep,
the constriction of the casing under pressure holds the tire on...
with plenty of force. The calculation of that is in "the Bicycle Wheel".

> Would be interested to see a test of the difference in rolling
> resistance between the two gluing methods. Given your own test
> results 20+ years ago comparing road and track glues, it seems a
> certainty to me that contemporary road glue, used in combination
> with gluing technique designed to give the strongest bond (as
> opposed to being easily removable in case of a flat), is almost
> certain to result in the least rolling resistance.


So where are your tests?

I suppose you believe Sheldon did those tests as well.

> I wouldn't be calling someone an "old fart" if I were you.


"Old fart" is a state of mind, not chronological years.

[email protected]
 
[email protected] wrote:
> > Sheldon Brown is wrong.

>
> I guess you can't read but the piece cited isn't from Sheldon Brown.
> He only furnishes the web space for that article.


I noticed that your name was on it after I had read the substance of
the article and responded to it. I considered replying to my own
article to correct the attribution but thought it was too trivial,
because after all, Sheldon is repsonsible for the content of his
website.

> I guess if you never brake hard enough to heat your rims you may have
> had that experience, but pressure sensitive glues are mobile and
> squirm all over so that the tire seats where it sinks in under
> flexing.


With Vittoria Mastik the rim can be heated to a point where you can't
touch it and it still maintains more strength than the glues you used
in your day do at their optimal operating temp. But even you admitted
in a previous post that extreme braking conditions are required to heat
rims to that degree, that usually wind resistance provides enough
braking that the rim does not need to reach that temperature.

> If you inspect old rims, you will see that the glue is full
> of aluminum oxide, the grey color and that the base tape of the tire
> eroded the aluminum rim.


Old is right. Because if they are new rims (or even old rims) using
contemporary glue applied as I suggested, they will not squirm that
way, or as much.

> > (Brown's comments are also obsolete about different tubular cement
> > brands.)

>
> They are not "Brown's comments' and the glues mentioned are similar to
> other favorite brands. Besides they are still on the rare item
> market.


Not according to recent testing. Those glues don't come close to Conti
or especially VM in strength.

> I don't think you ride tubulars or you would have plenty of used tires
> that have glue on them.


Unlike you, I have ridden tubulars almost exclusively for the last 30+
years.

> The way you describe this, it seems you
> theoretically take a new tire along as a spare. People who ride
> tubulars don't follow that regimen.


Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. What I don't do is keep a bunch of
extra tubulars lying around, and what I also don't do is pull off a
glued tire to make it a spare and replace it with a new one. To be
perfectly honest, I don't pre-glue *new* spares either, but I realize
that I probably should. Sometimes I will put on a used (pre-glued)
spare, buy a new tire and put it under the saddle, and ride around on
the spare for a couple of weeks before I get around to gluing it down,
if it is a rear tire. And then my decision about which tire to glue and
which to keep as a spare will be based on different factors like which
is the better tire and what are their relative conditions. So no, I
don't follow a regimen.

> > I don't have numbers on how much force is required to remove a tire
> > using these two methods, but I do know that the wet layer bond using
> > Vittoria Mastik is extremely difficult to break by hand (on the road
> > I usually pull out an allen wrench that I work under the tire, but
> > I'm thinking about carrying an aluminum tire lever, if I can find
> > one, for that purpose), while the contact cement method is easily
> > pried off by hand. That is an objective observation.

>
> Who gives a hoot how much force.


That's the whole point- "how much force" is what resists the damn tire
rolling off. You seemed to think it important to some degree since in
the FAQ you point out that inflation is what you think is the force
keeping the tire on the rim.

> The glue only prevents tire creep,
> the constriction of the casing under pressure holds the tire on...
> with plenty of force.


Wrong, and it's easily verified. A fully inflated but unglued tire can
be pulled off a rim by hand; a properly glued tire cannot.

> The calculation of that is in "the Bicycle Wheel".


The calculation is wrong if it based on the gluing method described on
Brown's site.

> > Would be interested to see a test of the difference in rolling
> > resistance between the two gluing methods. Given your own test
> > results 20+ years ago comparing road and track glues, it seems a
> > certainty to me that contemporary road glue, used in combination
> > with gluing technique designed to give the strongest bond (as
> > opposed to being easily removable in case of a flat), is almost
> > certain to result in the least rolling resistance.

>
> So where are your tests?


Don't have them but extrapolating from yours and the recent testing
with tubular glues I think it is a reasonable hypothesis. Your ranting
has certainly done nothing to cast doubt on it.

> I suppose you believe Sheldon did those tests as well.


No, I doubt that any regular reader of this ng could *possibly* escape
the fact that you and Avocet did the tests.

> > I wouldn't be calling someone an "old fart" if I were you.

>
> "Old fart" is a state of mind, not chronological years.


Ain't *that* the truth. Like I said.
 
someone sniped anonymously:

>> I guess you can't read but the piece cited isn't from Sheldon
>> Brown. He only furnishes the web space for that article.


> I noticed that your name was on it after I had read the substance of
> the article and responded to it. I considered replying to my own
> article to correct the attribution but thought it was too trivial,
> because after all, Sheldon is repsonsible for the content of his
> website.


>> I guess if you never brake hard enough to heat your rims you may
>> have had that experience, but pressure sensitive glues are mobile
>> and squirm all over so that the tire seats where it sinks in under
>> flexing.


> With Vittoria Mastik the rim can be heated to a point where you
> can't touch it and it still maintains more strength than the glues
> you used in your day do at their optimal operating temp. But even
> you admitted in a previous post that extreme braking conditions are
> required to heat rims to that degree, that usually wind resistance
> provides enough braking that the rim does not need to reach that
> temperature.


You are fooling yourself if you believe that. Glues haven't changed
all that much and if they have they are on the border of not being
useful for a spare tire if they are not soft enough when at room
temperature to hold. If heating them doesn't affect them then you
have a glue that is useless because all pressure sensitive glues are
thermally affected.

>> If you inspect old rims, you will see that the glue is full of
>> aluminum oxide, the grey color and that the base tape of the tire
>> eroded the aluminum rim.


> Old is right. Because if they are new rims (or even old rims) using
> contemporary glue applied as I suggested, they will not squirm that
> way, or as much.


OK, so let's rephrase that:

If you inspect your used rims, you will see that the glue is full of
aluminum oxide, the grey color and that the base tape of the tire has
eroded the aluminum rim.

>>> (Brown's comments are also obsolete about different tubular cement
>>> brands.)


>> They are not "Brown's comments' and the glues mentioned are similar
>> to other favorite brands. Besides they are still on the rare item
>> market.


> Not according to recent testing. Those glues don't come close to
> Conti or especially VM in strength.


This is the same old story we've been hearing every year throughout
the days when people still rode tubulars. It's only how much you
believe the ad copy.

>> I don't think you ride tubulars or you would have plenty of used tires
>> that have glue on them.


> Unlike you, I have ridden tubulars almost exclusively for the last
> 30+ years.


Oh? How do you know how many years I rode tubulars? As I have
mentioned, in the days when there were no useful racing clinchers, I
held Wednesday evening tubular repair sessions for the local racers. The
items in the FAQ on tubulars is all well tested.

>> The way you describe this, it seems you theoretically take a new
>> tire along as a spare. People who ride tubulars don't follow that
>> regimen.


> Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. What I don't do is keep a bunch
> of extra tubulars lying around, and what I also don't do is pull off
> a glued tire to make it a spare and replace it with a new one. To be
> perfectly honest, I don't pre-glue *new* spares either, but I
> realize that I probably should. Sometimes I will put on a used
> (pre-glued) spare, buy a new tire and put it under the saddle, and
> ride around on the spare for a couple of weeks before I get around
> to gluing it down, if it is a rear tire. And then my decision about
> which tire to glue and which to keep as a spare will be based on
> different factors like which is the better tire and what are their
> relative conditions. So no, I don't follow a regimen.


Somehow your scenario doesn't make sense. When you have a flat or
two, you must patch them on the road and re-mount them if you don't
have patched tubulars at home. Form years of experience, most riders
have at least two tires as spares that resulted from a home repair
while two other tires are on the bicycle. Since most riders have more
than one set of wheels, there are at least two spares in reserve. I
don't visualize how you handle this but it seems hypothetical.

>>> I don't have numbers on how much force is required to remove a
>>> tire using these two methods, but I do know that the wet layer
>>> bond using Vittoria Mastik is extremely difficult to break by hand
>>> (on the road I usually pull out an allen wrench that I work under
>>> the tire, but I'm thinking about carrying an aluminum tire lever,
>>> if I can find one, for that purpose), while the contact cement
>>> method is easily pried off by hand. That is an objective
>>> observation.


>> Who gives a hoot how much force.


> That's the whole point- "how much force" is what resists the damn
> tire rolling off. You seemed to think it important to some degree
> since in the FAQ you point out that inflation is what you think is
> the force keeping the tire on the rim.


Well that isn't the point. Tires don't roll as you imagine. They are
held in place by inflation constriction and kept from creeping
significantly by the glue. Even with rim cement, they move. I think
that if you took some demanding descents around here, you too would
have to reverse your front wheel to make the tire creep back to where
the stem is again radial from reverse creep. This is old hat and
hasn't changed.

>> The glue only prevents tire creep, the constriction of the casing
>> under pressure holds the tire on... with plenty of force.


> Wrong, and it's easily verified. A fully inflated but unglued tire
> can be pulled off a rim by hand; a properly glued tire cannot.


I can pull of a fully glued and inflated tire. So what?

>> The calculation of that is in "the Bicycle Wheel".


> The calculation is wrong if it based on the gluing method described
> on Brown's site.


I don't think you know with what your are disagreeing. The
constriction force is correct and is valid for tubulars and clinchers
with bias ply cords. Just slow down a bit and review what is being
discussed.

>>> Would be interested to see a test of the difference in rolling
>>> resistance between the two gluing methods. Given your own test
>>> results 20+ years ago comparing road and track glues, it seems a
>>> certainty to me that contemporary road glue, used in combination
>>> with gluing technique designed to give the strongest bond (as
>>> opposed to being easily removable in case of a flat), is almost
>>> certain to result in the least rolling resistance.


>> So where are your tests?


> Don't have them but extrapolating from yours and the recent testing
> with tubular glues I think it is a reasonable hypothesis. Your
> ranting has certainly done nothing to cast doubt on it.


I can't do much with that nor can anyone else.

>> I suppose you believe Sheldon did those tests as well.


> No, I doubt that any regular reader of this ng could *possibly*
> escape the fact that you and Avocet did the tests.


SO what is it that you don't believe?

>>> I wouldn't be calling someone an "old fart" if I were you.


>> "Old fart" is a state of mind, not chronological years.


> Ain't *that* the truth. Like I said.


aka "as I said". I take it English is a second language for you.

[email protected]
 
Dans le message de news:[email protected],
[email protected] <[email protected]> a
réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :

>>>> Ain't *that* the truth. Like I said.

>
>>> aka "as I said". I take it English is a second language for you.

>
>> 780 GRE verbal. No one says "as I said" in this context, especially
>> not in a paragraph with the word "ain't".

>
> I think you know not of what you speak. You don't understand the
> difference between "like" and "as".
>
> [email protected]


Please stop trying to act as though you were exceptionally literate. Were
English not only your first language (?), but had you also mastered it, I
would not have read the innumerable errors in your text which I have
excised, to spare others. Spell checking may help you, but a correctly
spelled but inapt word is something you failed to correct several times in
this exchange.

I remember calling your attention once before to your inability to
distinguish conversational (and transcribed) colloquial English from grammar
book paradigms. Were the great authors of the language of Shakespeare not
able to twist the "rules" to masterful effect, we would only have a lot of
technical writers to read for pleasure.

BTW, you seem not to have brought forward your extensive experience in
rigorous testing and evaluating either tubular or clincher tires for the
last two decades. I, for one, would enjoy being enlightened by the results
you have obtained on the hundreds of both types of tires. I think that
SocSec would no longer doubt the raw and assembled data himself. He could
even rise to an admission, should we get to read your recnt research.
--
Bonne route,

Sandy
Verneuil-sur-Seine FR

PS : have you had the opportunity to digest the frame stiffness testing
clippings I sent you ? I'd like your reaction to them, if you find time.
 
On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 18:45:57 GMT,
[email protected] wrote:

[snip]

>I see you believe in the one-flat-per-ride theory... which is mainly
>theoretical. When riding alone we always carries two spares on any
>ride farther than we wanted to walk.


[snip]

Dear Jobst,

I see that you believe in the two-flat-per-ride theory.

"When riding alone we always carries two spares . . ."
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I also dee that Englidh id not your native language.

(Sorry, but your typo was too good to ignore.)

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
[email protected] wrote:
> someone sniped anonymously:
> > So which is it? Have they or have they not changed "all that much"?
> > Since I happen to think that the data supports the latter, I will
> > grant you this: they may not be the best glues to use for a spare
> > tire. That would match my experience that the contact cement method
> > of gluing tires that you recommend does not create the strongest
> > bond with VM.

>
> If they have then they won't stick again with a spare tire.


I said, "the contact cement method of gluing tires that you recommend
does not create the strongest bond with VM". I did *not* say that it
will not create any bond. And I agree with you on something else: that
inflation constriction provides a significant force to keep tires on
tubular rims. Not the best, but adequate for my riding. I have stated
before that I don't worry about it that much on a rear tire.

> You can't have it both ways.


You're constructing a false dichotomy.

> Either it's a permanent one-use glue or it is a
> tacky one that accepts resuse for changing a tire.


Or maybe something in between.

> The best glues
> were available 30 years ago just as they are today.


No, they weren't. VM was not and I don't believe Conti was either.

> Glues for new
> uses have been developed since but for reusable rim glues, there has
> been no advance.


You really have no idea, and absolutely no evidence to support this
statement. You have pulled it out of thin air.

> > I have noticed taking VM-glued tires off and only seeing the white
> > glue, but I admit that doesn't mean anything. The real question is
> > whether the degree of squirm is as great as with the old glues.
> > Some squirm would produce some oxide; a quarter as much squirm might
> > produce the same amount of oxide if the tire was used 4x as long-
> > very, very difficult to draw any meaningful conclusions from the
> > presence of aluminum oxide without a very carefully controlled test
> > procedure.

>
> Oh BS! There wasn't a wheel that was ridden in the local mountains
> that didn't have significant creep on steep, hard braking descents.
> If your tires come off lily white I doubt that you demand much from
> your glue.


OR, THEY DON'T SQUIRM THAT MUCH! (Or they weren't on that long before
they had to be pulled off.)

> What happens to your spares when they are folded?


Depends.

> Does
> the glue stick to itself and need to be pulled apart to open the tire
> for mounting? This whole picture doesn't make sense.


I already told you that I use new tires for spares sometimes. I *don't*
specifically pre-glue spares; I depend on "inflation constriction" and
rim glue to get me home, and maybe old glue on the tire.

> http://www.engr.ku.edu/~ktl/bicycle/bicycle.html
>
> Selecting one of these items that harp on tire roll-off as if that
> were the big threat, I find the temperature one most revealing in its
> lack of field experience. Here again, tire roll-off is the thrust
> rather than the more serious one of linear creep that piles the tire
> up against the stem and causes a blowout. No mention of this is made,
> indicating that these folks don't descent hard or have any idea of the
> real hazard of tubulars that has plagues them for a long time.


Force to roll off a tire is simply a way to measure bond strength. If
the glue retains as much bond strength as other glues have when cold,
it doesn't matter which direction the force is applied to measure bond
strength. It will not be able to creep anymore than it will be able to
roll off. Or, are you suggesting that these glues are directional in
their strength, like some kind of carbon fiber glue?

I think their testing is valid, and can be extrapolated to the
conditions you are worried about. You certainly have no data to the
contrary and I think your criticism is the last resort of a person who
has nothing left of substance to stand on.

> In the days if yore, when many of the major Alpine passes were
> unpaved, descending with continuous braking was the norm and caused
> major tire creep. Beyond that, they talk of 70 degC when more than
> 100 degC is common. As I have related, steam hissing out of the stem
> hole in the rim alerted me to the higher temperatures caused by
> braking, after riding in snow for a longer distance.


This is not the days of yore. Nevertheless, if their testing shows
improved bonding at 70C it is probably still stronger than your old
glues at 100C. But I will keep your advice in mind the next time I am
descending unpaved Alpine roads and make sure that my bike is equipped
with a disc brake.

> # TUBULAR TIRES: ADHESIVES AND PRACTICE
> # PART 6
> # Adhesive Performance at Higher Temperatures
> # C. S. Chip
>
> (snipped background info)
>>>>>>>>

> # Proper adhesive selection and proper
> # application are necessary to minimize the potential for roll-off.
> # Given the temperature rise due to braking during descents, the
> # subsequent lateral stress placed on the adhesive bonds in corners
> # and slides and the potential for serious injury to the rider, it is
> # important for the mechanic to know how the adhesive will perform. <<<<<<<<


Exactly. So don't use your old glues, use VM. It is the only logical
choice for someone who has found tire creep to be an issue in their
descending.

> >>> Unlike you, I have ridden tubulars almost exclusively for the last
> >>> 30+ years.

>
> >> Oh? How do you know how many years I rode tubulars?

>
> > I made no reference to how long you rode tubulars, I don't know how
> > many years you rode them, and I don't care. What I *do* know is
> > that you haven't ridden them with any regularity for about thirty
> > years, and I know this because you have told us this over and over
> > here on this NG.

>
> You seem to gloss over your words "Unlike you..."


No, that was a comment on our relative experience with tubulars during
the period in which these new glues were introduced. Your experience
with the old glues is irrelevant.

> I am sure I have
> ridden at least as many tubulars in more conditions than you, judging
> from your claims.


Irrelevant experience, because it is not contemporary. In fact, worse
than irrelvant, because you think you are experienced, but your
experience is obsolete.

> Besides, the articles in the above web site should
> mainly convince readers that they do not want to partake in these
> arcane and time consuming rituals. I sense that they are trying to
> say something useful while covering their liability, the latter being
> the main thrust.


The papers appear to me to be academic in nature.

> OH? Please let me know what isn't up to date?


A. The glues referenced.
B. The gluing method.

> What has changes in
> tubulars other than that some of them have no stitching and others use
> adhesives that make them unrepairable.


It's not the tires, it's the glues.

> I see you believe in the one-flat-per-ride theory... which is mainly
> theoretical.


It's not a question of theory, it's one of probability.

> When riding alone we always carries two spares on any
> ride farther than we wanted to walk.


For the once-every-fifteen-years probability, I will deal with it when
it happens rather than try to strap on an extra tubular for that long
shot (unless I win the lottery in which case I gotta figure something
about my luck is changing).

> > I have spare wheels; they don't have tires mounted on them. That
> > hasn't really been a need since I last raced years ago.

>
> You mean... since I last rode actively... Racing has nothing to do
> with this.


Hell, I rode 165 miles in the last week. And, of course racing has
something to do with this- you train on different wheel/tire sets from
those on which you race. Now there is no race, so no special wheelsets.

> > Given that VM is a relatively new glue, and proven that at high rim
> > temperatures is retains more strength than the old glues did at
> > optimal temperatures, it is clear that it *has* changed.

>
> As long as it is a pressure sensitive glue it is also thermo plastic
> and will creep on hot braking descents.


So all thermo plastic materials have the exact same temperature
sensitivity and exhibit that plasticity at the same temperature?

> As I have described, I used
> thick cotton webbing soaked in epoxy as heat barriers on my rims to
> prevent this. Just the same, insulation has only so much resistance
> and in time heat comes through. I rode with heat barriers for many
> years and still have two sets of these wheels gathering dust.


Gathering dust is probably a good use for them.

> I don't think you've tried. If the tire is changeable on the road
> when flat then it can be pushed off the rim with thumb pressure.


As I have said before here, it is not really changeable on the road
after a flat without some kind of tool to pry the tire off the rim, at
least enough to get your hand under it. I have used I small allen
wrench which a was able to work under the tire and then use it to pry
up more of the tire.

So, yes, I have tried. If I can get it off with my hands, I did not do
a good job of gluing the tire.

> Stop creating straw men!


You first! That story about tubular glue resisting the heat of braking
on unpaved Alpine roads in the 60s is a strawman if I ever heard of
one.

> I would like to hear some factual data that supports your view of
> tubular tire adhesion and replacement.


The data is in the studies I referenced.

> It seems that you are only
> willing to say my perspective is all wrong and old fashioned. It is
> the tubular that is old fashioned.


It apparently, nevertheless, still presents the best weight and rolling
resistance available, despite your testing with Avocet.

> I think you know not of what you speak. You don't understand the
> difference between "like" and "as".


I think you don't understand the difference between colloquial and
"proper" English. Actually, no, I don't think that. I think that you're
making this pointless criticism because you got nothin' else.
 
Roger Marquis wrote:
> Qui si parla Campagnolo <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to them
> >> beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is one of
> >> those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for 20 to 40
> >> minutes, and mount the tire.

> >
> >
> >Insanity!!
> >
> >Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire roll.

>
> In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
> clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
> that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
> Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex over
> its base tape.
>
> The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then only
> with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent fumes from
> drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base tape adhesion.
> It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.
>
> If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
> _very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
> like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.
>
> --
> Roger Marquis
> http://www.roble.net/marquis/



Not paranoid at all, just using a wee bit of common sense. A couple of
light layers of glue onto the tire does no harm and is in keeping with
common sense when gluing anything to anything else. Glue both surfaces.

But do what you wish. As a wrench who also rides tubies, who has never
had one of mine roll, I will continue the method I have used for 20
years.
 
Sandy wrote:
> Dans le message de news:[email protected],
> [email protected] <[email protected]> a
> réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :
>
>>>>> Ain't *that* the truth. Like I said.

>>
>>
>>>> aka "as I said". I take it English is a second language for you.

>>
>>
>>> 780 GRE verbal. No one says "as I said" in this context, especially
>>> not in a paragraph with the word "ain't".

>>
>>
>> I think you know not of what you speak. You don't understand the
>> difference between "like" and "as".
>>
>> [email protected]

>
>
> Please stop trying to act as though you were exceptionally literate.


Erm, there is a HUGE difference between something like

"it's like I said" and "it's as I said".

What bit confuses you? I couldn't make much sense of the rest of your
overly construed post.
 
On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 18:45:57 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>someone sniped anonymously:
>
>> 780 GRE verbal. No one says "as I said" in this context, especially
>> not in a paragraph with the word "ain't".

>
>I think you know not of what you speak. You don't understand the
>difference between "like" and "as".


No, you don't understand 'dialect'.

Jasper
 
On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 08:12:10 GMT, Michael Press <[email protected]> wrote:

>Perhaps you have not considered the message
>to which I replied, in which SSTW himself
>disparages a paper that he cited.

[..]
>in which SSTW disparages the paper as "academic",
>a paper that SSTW first cited in support of his thesis.


The fact that you think 'academic' is a disparagement says more about you
than about anyone else.

Jasper