R
L
Leo Lichtman
Guest
"rs" wrote: What is recommended as a brush on clear-coat to protect a new
bike's paint job?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
These are the points to consider:
1.) It is hard to brush on a coat of anything that will look as smooth as
the factory finish.
2.) If you apply lacquer over a regular enamel, there is a good chance it
will dissolve or wrinkle.
3.) A clear coat over a dark background will show white scratches
eventually.
4.) If you fall, or drop the bike, or hurt the finish in any way, chances
are the damage will go through your clear coat into the factory finish.
I suggest you ride the bike and be as careful as you can. Be prepared to
accept that the paint will not look new forever. Use a small bottle of
tough-up paint if you get any bad dings.
bike's paint job?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
These are the points to consider:
1.) It is hard to brush on a coat of anything that will look as smooth as
the factory finish.
2.) If you apply lacquer over a regular enamel, there is a good chance it
will dissolve or wrinkle.
3.) A clear coat over a dark background will show white scratches
eventually.
4.) If you fall, or drop the bike, or hurt the finish in any way, chances
are the damage will go through your clear coat into the factory finish.
I suggest you ride the bike and be as careful as you can. Be prepared to
accept that the paint will not look new forever. Use a small bottle of
tough-up paint if you get any bad dings.
J
Rick Schiller writes:
> What is recommended as a brush on clear-coat to protect a new bike's
> paint?
That depends on what you are protecting against. If its ultra violet
light from the sun, then you need flat black paint and if it is
scratches, you need a wrap of electrical tape. I'm sure you've seen
the black bibs on the front of some cars that make them ugly as dirt.
That is done in anticipation of selling an as-new car some day. Well,
road dust that gets behind these devices along with vibration make the
finish as dull as sand paper so they can't take them off anymore.
Ride bike!
Jobst Brandt
> What is recommended as a brush on clear-coat to protect a new bike's
> paint?
That depends on what you are protecting against. If its ultra violet
light from the sun, then you need flat black paint and if it is
scratches, you need a wrap of electrical tape. I'm sure you've seen
the black bibs on the front of some cars that make them ugly as dirt.
That is done in anticipation of selling an as-new car some day. Well,
road dust that gets behind these devices along with vibration make the
finish as dull as sand paper so they can't take them off anymore.
Ride bike!
Jobst Brandt
C
catzz66
Guest
B
Bob
Guest
rs wrote:
> What is recommended as a brush on clear-coat to protect a new bike's paint
> job?
>
> thanks, Rick
Forget clear coating, especially anything you can apply with a brush.
Just use a good quality wax. It won't prevent scratches but neither
does clear coat. The only way I know of to keep your bike absolutely
pristine is to never ride it and that's a really lousy option.
Regards,
Bob Hunt
> What is recommended as a brush on clear-coat to protect a new bike's paint
> job?
>
> thanks, Rick
Forget clear coating, especially anything you can apply with a brush.
Just use a good quality wax. It won't prevent scratches but neither
does clear coat. The only way I know of to keep your bike absolutely
pristine is to never ride it and that's a really lousy option.
Regards,
Bob Hunt
M
maxo
Guest
most bikes get nicked and scratched when you lean them up against
stuff. When you turn your head of course they fall over.
Back in the 80s there was a cool device known as a "flickstand" that
attached to the down tube and flicked down to immobilize the front
wheel. With your front wheel thus locked, the bike becomes a rigid
structure, able to be leaned ***** nilly.
All my utility rides always get regular Greenfield kickstands, but
that's a bit out of the question on a sporting bike--or is it?
stuff. When you turn your head of course they fall over.
Back in the 80s there was a cool device known as a "flickstand" that
attached to the down tube and flicked down to immobilize the front
wheel. With your front wheel thus locked, the bike becomes a rigid
structure, able to be leaned ***** nilly.
All my utility rides always get regular Greenfield kickstands, but
that's a bit out of the question on a sporting bike--or is it?
