clipon tt bars on carbon



audio_terrorist

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Oct 2, 2005
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my lbs told me not to buy clip on areo bars because i have carbon bars, said it would crush them when i tighten them up

im willing to say that it would be fine. anybody else use carbon bars with clip ons.

thanks
 
audio_terrorist said:
my lbs told me not to buy clip on areo bars because i have carbon bars, said it would crush them when i tighten them up

im willing to say that it would be fine. anybody else use carbon bars with clip ons.

thanks

Most carbon bars are not warranteed for clamping by aero bars (Kestrel EMS Pro and Easton EC90 being two exceptions).

I am sure that some people are riding them without problems, but I personally would not take the chance.
 
Broken bars are right up there with broken forks when it comes to scary scenarios. I wouldn't do it either, but they're you're teeth.
 
The instructions that came with the bars should indicate whether or not aero bars are okay. If they are, they must be torqued properly.

Of course, the risk of catastrophic failure and sliding face first down the road might be a good reason to just use Al.
 
Here's another question:

Anyone thought of using those quick disconnect cables used on the type of bikes you can break down for travel? Santana has some tandems that use those, and I saw a Ritchey road bike in the Colorado Cyclist catalog that has them. That way, you could have a full-on bullhorn TT bar setup, then switch it out of the stem for a regular road bar setup.

I've never ridden or set up a bike with any of the cable connectors, so I don't know what compromises they might introduce in the way of shifting and brake sloppiness, as well as getting the cables properly matched between bar sets so braking and shifting still works the same.

Just an idea, though.
 
typ993

I think you have an excellent idea there. Much better than trying clip-on TT bars. If you want TT bars, get one since it's much safer than trying to clip one on a carbon bar that is not rated for it. Face plants are not fun.
 
Insight Driver said:
typ993

I think you have an excellent idea there. Much better than trying clip-on TT bars. If you want TT bars, get one since it's much safer than trying to clip one on a carbon bar that is not rated for it. Face plants are not fun.
Just ask George Hincapie...
 
typ993 said:
Anyone thought of using those quick disconnect cables used on the type of bikes you can break down for travel? Santana has some tandems that use those, and I saw a Ritchey road bike in the Colorado Cyclist catalog that has them. That way, you could have a full-on bullhorn TT bar setup, then switch it out of the stem for a regular road bar setup.
The Ritchey cable disconnects only work on sections of cable that are out of the housing, like the derailleur cables running along the down tube. You would need to bridge a gap in the housing to get it to work for the front brake. It's doable, but it would be pretty bulky.
 
Follow the handlebar manufacturer's suggestions. I have Reynolds bars, and they're clip on compatible.

People get their panties all bunched up in a paranoid fit if you do something that just doesn't fit their poorly reasoned excuses based on bad, non-scientific assumptions re: certain materials. CF is a good case in point. As with the bolts on the stem faceplate or on the steerer clamp holding that CF steerer tube, if you follow the manufacturer's torque specs, you'll be fine. Clamps for clip on aero bars are no different.

For the dimly lit bulbs in the audience, look at the photos below and read this carefully: Hincapie's steerer broke. His steerer was made of a-l-u-m-i-n-u-m. If you sound it out, you'll get it right, see? ;) :rolleyes: So I guess all the closet quack scientists and Flat Earth Society members oughta start running for the hills, screaming, 'cuz guess what: yer handlebars just might be made of ALUMINUM!!!!!! And God knows, that darned aluminum just might spontaneously disintegrate.
 
typ993 said:
Just ask George Hincapie...
Pretty sure they determined his steerer was aluminum not CARBON. Probably cracked from an earlier crash then stessed from cobbles.

Oops. already pointed out.:)
 

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