Commuting Bike

Discussion in 'Australia and New Zealand' started by thepeddler, May 13, 2007.

  1. cluster blaster

    cluster blaster New Member

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    Hey, I've had a randonneur too! Very nice commuter bike I recon. Mine was the "LE" model; the one with bar-end shifters. I like those shifters a lot. The frame is aluminum, but the fork is steel, which is a very good reliable combination. I didn't know they don't make them any longer... that's not a good news for me. I really liked the bike.... (mine got crushed under a Ford Territory one day - SMIDSY). Seems I'll have to go for the CrossCheck.

    Btw, I think that CrossCheck is not really made as a cyclo-cross specific bike. I recon the name that was used is rather a clever marketing; it is more a do-it-all road bike; strong, sporty, not too-expensive and so it can be used to race some cross if that's desired...


     


  2. cluster blaster

    cluster blaster New Member

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    CrossCheck comes as a complete bike too. Last time I saw it the price was $1495, complete bike. Also the LongHaulTrucker (Surly) comes as a complete bike now and the same price applies. Dirtworks is the distributor here in AU.

    I recon that for 1495 the CrossCheck is a very good choice (for myself). I'd just need to swap the saddle and that's it.

    The smaller LongHaulTrucker frames are actually designed to take 26" wheels. Larger sizes take 700C wheels. It is just that some people found that those smaller frames will take 650C wheels too. That's how much tyre-clearance is available!! Nothing wrong with either of the option..?

     
  3. Dancier

    Dancier New Member

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    There must of been a classic design for steel road and touring bikes that were used throughout the world many years ago.

    I've ridden with guys that have Cecil Walker steel framed bikes and another guy that had a steel bike from Italy and the design is similar to the Cross Check.

    http://www.surlybikes.com/crosscheck_comp.html


    I've got an old Apollo road bike thats 28 years old and the frame is very similar in design to the fuji touring bike. So i wonder how old the fuji design is.

    http://www.fujibikes.com.au/bikes.asp?id=290&subcat=2
     
  4. mphew1

    mphew1 New Member

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    These stats are good to see. I've worked out that by riding rather than catching the train / bus I'm saving $0.168/km. So far though I've spent $1.16/km for the bike (including purchase and all other stuff). If I keep commuting at my current rate though my savings on train tickets will pay for my bike in less than three years.
     
  5. anth

    anth New Member

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    The difference is because those brake lever/gear shifter combos cost a lot, while the separate controls used for flat handle bars are much cheaper.

    As another current thread says the thing that people don't like about Sora is that the little switch on the side is hard to reach from the drops. I'd guess that you can work out fairly quickly if that would bother you, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to take one for a test ride.

    You can add interupter levers to the top part of the handle bar then brake with either set. They are also called auxiliary or cross levers. I haven't tried them myself, but they look effective (not like those worse than useless things that got added to 10 speed brake levers a few decades back).

    I'm not trying to push you towards drops though. Each style has its place, and the most important thing is that it works for you.
     
  6. munga

    munga New Member

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    Whatever bike you decide, consider looking at some use bikes as well. I bought a 5 year old bike (Raceline Peleton 8sp roady for $365) with under 1000km on it for maybe 1/3 it's sticker price (when new) from ebay.
    I appreciate that geographically, there are less bikes listed in Perth than the eastern cities, and it's also a bit of extra legwork for you to be looking at bikes all over town versus dropping in at your lbs, but if theres $500 or more to be saved...
     
  7. j.r.hawkins

    j.r.hawkins New Member

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    I'd limit the age when looking at secondhand to no more than 1-2 years old. Reason is the manufacturers are constantly upgrading or more likely just changing the componentry in order to keep the market turning over, and finding compatible parts for your groupo could become an issue.

    Besides, what was second-top shelf 5 years ago is just about entry-level now, based on what I've seen in mountain bikes. So even with the 2/3rd savings you made on sticker price, I reckon you paid no better than fair market value, and missed out on the warranty. :rolleyes:
     
  8. oziedave

    oziedave New Member

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    Buy the Giant Perigee. Top bike. I've brought mine late Dec 2006 and have covered over 6800 kays on it since. I have used it to ride across Australia (Sydney to Perth. 4801 kays in 30 days...) towing a bob yak trailer, daliy commuting to work (40kays/day), weekend blasts and have also completed the Munda biddi trail on it twice.
    Very well set up bike for the price. I'm still using the orginal chain. The only thing that has broken is two spokes on the back wheel (which was my own fault for over tightening whilst towing the trailer..)
    I use Continetal Ultra gator skin 700 x 23 tyres for the road and 700 x 42 MTB tyres for off road.
    Bike handles the off road stuff very well. Great for long unsealed roads.Very fast on and off road. The only thing I have changed is the seat for a Giant comfort gel seat and upgraded the pedals to Shimano M545 SPD.
    I looked at a lot of different bikes and it came down to two. The Giant and a Scott Sportster SP2... Brought the Giant for $1098 and never looked back..
     
  9. thepeddler

    thepeddler New Member

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    Thanks Oziedave,

    I just asked a question in the Munda Biddi post that you have answered here.
    Great to find someone who rides the Perigee and you have just helped me vindicate my decision to buy it.

    Most people seem to have an issue with the suspension fork when commuting on the road/cycleway but you obviously have no problem with it.

    cheers

    ps. I was also looking at the Scott Sportster P2
     
  10. oziedave

    oziedave New Member

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    Had no problems with the front end. The lock out is very hand and I use it a far bit for climbing or sprinting.
    Makes the ride to work a lot more comfy. I run my tyres very hard and the front forks take out all the vibes...
    You won't look back, except to over take all those road and mountain bikers...
    Had a little trouble finding some 700 MTB tyres. There are a few Cyclocross tyres out there but are expensive. ( Continial and Michelin both make them ) Think mine are Ritchey. Cost $40 each.



     
  11. thomas_cho

    thomas_cho New Member

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    Why get a suspension fork when you lock it out? If possible just get a non-suspension fork, will save some weight from the bike. I am not convinced that one needs front suspension when riding on roads, paths. The money saved could be put towards stronger wheelset.
     
  12. artemidorus

    artemidorus New Member

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    Sounds like the Sora arrangement is a bit like the Campagnolo set-up, which is used by tens/hundreds of thousands of happy cyclists. It's just a matter of what you get used to. How often do you want to get off the big ring when you're still on the drops?
     
  13. artemidorus

    artemidorus New Member

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    If you bought a 9spd 105/Ultegra/DuraAce road bike, you would, as yet, have no objective reason to upgrade whatsoever, unless it were worn out. This would take you back to '02 bikes, or earlier for DA.
     
  14. artemidorus

    artemidorus New Member

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    Thomas, I would go so far as to say that I am convinced that I don't need front suspension on sealed surface of just about any kind. I could count the number of bikes with suspension that have passed me on the road in the last year on the fingers of one hand, and still have some left. I'm no cycling superhero, but my road bike will comfortably cruise at 35km/h on the flat and my dual sus mtb definitely will not go near that speed in cruising mode, even with the fork locked out.
    But whatever you prefer; if you've got back, neck or arm problems, or if you're carrying some excess weight on the torso, you may have an entirely different perspective.
     
  15. thepeddler

    thepeddler New Member

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    Since my first post I have decided I would also like to do some of the trails in the hills around Perth and the Munda Biddi track as well as some touring.

    I can't really afford two bikes and so the Giant seems to fit the bill. The "touring bikes" like the Vivente World Tourer and the Trek 520 etc are out of my price range.

    I seems to me that if you can ride from Sydney to Perth, do the Munda Biddi twice and use it for a commute to work what more do you need?

    If it was all about speed and purely road I would probably go for one of those skinny wheel drop bar things (lol).
     
  16. xxamr_corpxx

    xxamr_corpxx New Member

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    Any recommendations for a bombproof set of 26 inch wheels? The more spokes the merrier.
     
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