Compact Frame sizing



S

Sparky

Guest
I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo
 
On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
> the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
> $1,000.00.


Disc brakes on a road bike are all hype. Put some Kool-Stops on
whatever calipers you get and you'll stop just fine. Discs limit your
ability to mount fenders and racks which are far more important on a
commuter.

I'd recommended a touring bike like the Jamis Aurora or wannabe
cyclocross bike like the Bianchi Volpe.

Seriously, those disc brakes are more trouble than they're worth on a
road going bike. Linear pull brakes or cantilevers are more than
powerful enough, cheap, and decrease the theft value of your bike. The
reason you see them on so many so-called "commuters" is fashion,
nothing else. They certainly are useful for when you're bombing down a
northwest soggy trail at at 30mph, but I doubt that's what this bike
will see. ;-)

If you're planning on traveling light and your terrain is flat, I
can't recommend a Redline 925 fixed/ single speed bike enough. Nuclear
blast proof, and only $500. Yes I'm biased, as I own one, but it's
insane. I ride it road and trail, through glass, over curbs, and it
begs for more.
 
On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
>. Any idea what frame size would
> be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.
>



It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched, or
just right.
 
In article
<[email protected]>landotter
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes
>> (for the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
>> $1,000.00.


> Disc brakes on a road bike are all hype. Put some Kool-Stops on
> whatever calipers you get and you'll stop just fine. Discs limit
> yourability to mount fenders and racks which are far more important
> on a
> commuter.


I used to commute all year round, and I have slid into the back of a
car due to water on the rims keeping the brakes from grabbing. the
reviews I have read have been very positive toward the disc brakes on
the road bikes. I appreciate your opinion, but I'm not convinced that
discs are a waste of time.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo
 
In article
<[email protected]>landotter
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
>> . Any idea what frame size would
>> be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.


> It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
> current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched,
> orjust right.


Thanks. that sounds like a useful approach. My current bike has
straight bars, and I am looking to go to drops. Is there any
adjustment needed to the virtual top tube length? Drops seem to extend
the reach. Thanks.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo
 
On Sep 22, 7:34 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>landotter
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes
> >> (for the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
> >> $1,000.00.

> > Disc brakes on a road bike are all hype. Put some Kool-Stops on
> > whatever calipers you get and you'll stop just fine. Discs limit
> > yourability to mount fenders and racks which are far more important
> > on a
> > commuter.

>
> I used to commute all year round, and I have slid into the back of a
> car due to water on the rims keeping the brakes from grabbing. the
> reviews I have read have been very positive toward the disc brakes on
> the road bikes. I appreciate your opinion, but I'm not convinced that
> discs are a waste of time.
>
> --
> I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
> You can download it athttp://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo


Well, you're a Mac user, so I guess you need a bit of a handicap--but
I've been commuting near twenty years rain and dry with caliper
brakes, and they work fine.
 
On Sep 22, 7:40 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>landotter
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> . Any idea what frame size would
> >> be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

> > It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
> > current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched,
> > orjust right.

>
> Thanks. that sounds like a useful approach. My current bike has
> straight bars, and I am looking to go to drops. Is there any
> adjustment needed to the virtual top tube length? Drops seem to extend
> the reach. Thanks.
>


I ride the same top tube length on my flat bar city bike and my drop
bar bike, which probably doesn't mean much.
 
>>> . Any idea what frame size would
>>> be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

>
>> It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
>> current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched,
>> orjust right.

>
> Thanks. that sounds like a useful approach. My current bike has
> straight bars, and I am looking to go to drops. Is there any
> adjustment needed to the virtual top tube length? Drops seem to extend
> the reach. Thanks.


If this is your first road bike with drop bars, I would definitely recommend
against buying one without riding first. There are a whole lot of things
that go into proper fit on a road bike, and getting one set up properly will
save you a lot of grief (and possibly a lot of money if the original idea
didn't work out and became a very expensive garage decoration). Even if it
means traveling a pretty good distance to find a shop that can help you out,
it could very well be worth it. Once you're dialed in and all, buying bikes
without test rides will be a lot less risky (although still an issue).

Especially for the price range you're talking about, there will be benefits
to having a good shop standing behind not just the fit, but the assembly and
any warranty issues that might come up as well.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Sparky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article
> <[email protected]>landotter
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> . Any idea what frame size would
>>> be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

>
>> It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
>> current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched,
>> orjust right.

>
> Thanks. that sounds like a useful approach. My current bike has
> straight bars, and I am looking to go to drops. Is there any
> adjustment needed to the virtual top tube length? Drops seem to extend
> the reach. Thanks.
>
> --
> I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
> You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo
>
 
Sparky wrote:
> I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
> the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
> $1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
> are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
> a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
> MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
> be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.


Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most riders,
a compact frame is a very bad idea.

As one major bicycle manufacturer wrote: "there's a disturbing trend
among some bike companies to re-tool their road frames by shortening the
seat tube and slanting the top tube down from the head tube. This new
design "breakthrough," they argue, saves frame weight. And if you take
their claim literally, they're right - a shorter seat tube does make a
bare frame a little lighter. What they don't tell you is that their
complete bicycle actually weighs more than a bike with a conventional
geometry. Why? You have to use longer (and therefore heavier) seatposts
and stems on smaller frames to fit the rider properly, and their added
weight more than off-sets the few grams saved by their sloping top tube
frames."

Disc brakes are rare on road bikes, as they really are unnecessary, even
in rain, but if you've got your heart set on disc brakes on a road bike
look at the Novara Element, "http://www.rei.com/product/744808#"

With the REI dividend it'd be under $1000. Get an REI Visa card first,
and save another 5%. Or wait for a sale, as often REI has 15-20% off on
Novara bicycles (no dividend but the 5% for the Visa card still applies
on sale items).

If the size isn't right, REI gives you no trouble on exchanges,
something that is not the case at most other bicycle retailers.
 
On Sep 23, 10:45 am, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sparky wrote:
> > I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
> > the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
> > $1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
> > are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
> > a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
> > MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
> > be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

>
> Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most riders,
> a compact frame is a very bad idea.


[drivelsnip]

That's ********. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
comfortable height.

You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
******** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.
 
landotter wrote:

> That's ********. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
> using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
> comfortable height.
>
> You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
> ******** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
> frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.
>


There _is_ a tendency for shops toe sell frames that are too small.

It has nothing to do with looks.

You need to understand the inherent disadvantages in the compact frame
geometry for the vast majority of riders that are of "normal" proportions.

Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than standard
geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive. Don't fall for
it! There are still a sufficient number of non-compact frames available,
so you don't have to do whatever the bicycle manufacturers want you to do.

For $1000, you don't have to compromise with a compact frame.
 
In article <[email protected]>
SMS<[email protected]> wrote:

> Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most
> riders, a compact frame is a very bad idea.


The Schwinn Super Sport DBX is the bike I am most interested in, and
it happens to have a compact frame. I have no religious affiliation to
them one way or the other.

> Disc brakes are rare on road bikes, as they really are unnecessary,
> even in rain, but if you've got your heart set on disc brakes on a
> road bike look at the Novara Element,
> "http://www.rei.com/product/744808#"


> With the REI dividend it'd be under $1000. Get an REI Visa card
> first, and save another 5%. Or wait for a sale, as often REI has
> 15-20% off on Novara bicycles (no dividend but the 5% for the Visa
> card still applies on sale items).


> If the size isn't right, REI gives you no trouble on exchanges,
> something that is not the case at most other bicycle retailers.


That one is also in my sights. It looks like a great bike. However, I
am looking at scoring a new Schwinn DBX for about $700, which is a few
hundred less than the Element.

It's not my first road bike. My first one was run over by a pickup
truck when it hit me. I was young and stupid, and riding on the wrong
side of the road. The driver was looking to his left as he pulled out
of a parking lot and made a right turn and ran me down. Scary, I had
to hold onto the bumper and grill as he dragged me and the bike into
the street. Thank goodness lots of people were honking their horns, as
he was an oblivious SOB.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo
 
On Sep 23, 1:31 pm, Sparky <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>
>
> SMS<[email protected]> wrote:
> > Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most
> > riders, a compact frame is a very bad idea.

>
> The Schwinn Super Sport DBX is the bike I am most interested in, and
> it happens to have a compact frame. I have no religious affiliation to
> them one way or the other.
>
> > Disc brakes are rare on road bikes, as they really are unnecessary,
> > even in rain, but if you've got your heart set on disc brakes on a
> > road bike look at the Novara Element,
> > "http://www.rei.com/product/744808#"
> > With the REI dividend it'd be under $1000. Get an REI Visa card
> > first, and save another 5%. Or wait for a sale, as often REI has
> > 15-20% off on Novara bicycles (no dividend but the 5% for the Visa
> > card still applies on sale items).
> > If the size isn't right, REI gives you no trouble on exchanges,
> > something that is not the case at most other bicycle retailers.

>
> That one is also in my sights. It looks like a great bike. However, I
> am looking at scoring a new Schwinn DBX for about $700, which is a few
> hundred less than the Element.


That's a fair enough price I guess. Considering the no-name wheel
components, it certainly isn't worth the retail 1300 bucks.
 
> Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
> convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than standard
> geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive. Don't fall for
> it! There are still a sufficient number of non-compact frames available,
> so you don't have to do whatever the bicycle manufacturers want you to do.


We need to differentiate between "compact" frames, which might allow a
manufacturer to cut back on the number of sizes, and "sloping top tube"
bikes, which do little more (good or bad) than allow someone with
shorter-than-normal legs to fit a given-sized bike (if that person simply
chose a smaller size, the issue would be the top tube becoming too short).
Beyond that, it's style points.

If you look at what Trek did with the '08 Madone lineup, they essentially
doubled the number if size options when they went to a sloping top tube.
Almost every model they make is available with either a standard head tube
height (as used on all prior Madones and every other Trek "racing" bike
they've made since 1992), which is called the "Pro" fit, or the exact same
frame (by exact, I mean every single dimension, angles, chainstay length,
everything) with a 3cm taller head tube, called the "Performance" fit.

Not one size (50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm for men's) was dropped, and in
fact they added a 64cm in some models.

Other manufacturers may or may not have done something similar. My point is
that, just because it has a sloping top tube and someone decides to call it
a "compact" frame, has nothing to do with limiting sizing options. Could
even be the opposite.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"SMS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> landotter wrote:
>
>> That's ********. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
>> using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
>> comfortable height.
>>
>> You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
>> ******** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
>> frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.
>>

>
> There _is_ a tendency for shops toe sell frames that are too small.
>
> It has nothing to do with looks.
>
> You need to understand the inherent disadvantages in the compact frame
> geometry for the vast majority of riders that are of "normal" proportions.
>
> Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
> convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than standard
> geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive. Don't fall for
> it! There are still a sufficient number of non-compact frames available,
> so you don't have to do whatever the bicycle manufacturers want you to do.
>
> For $1000, you don't have to compromise with a compact frame.
 
Sparky wrote:

> It's not my first road bike. My first one was run over by a pickup
> truck when it hit me. I was young and stupid, and riding on the wrong
> side of the road. The driver was looking to his left as he pulled out
> of a parking lot and made a right turn and ran me down. Scary, I had
> to hold onto the bumper and grill as he dragged me and the bike into
> the street. Thank goodness lots of people were honking their horns, as
> he was an oblivious SOB.


I'd wait for an REI sale or coupon. They often send out 20% off coupons
for one item, and while it excludes most bicycles, it doesn't usually
exclude Novara bicycles. Add that to their 5% Visa rebate, and it's down
to $836 versus $700.

In any case, you said $1000, so that's why I came up with the best $1000
bicycle I could find. Remember, you're going to have this bicycle a long
time (hopefully), so you'll forget about a $200 difference soon enough.
Run like hell away from any compact frame road bicycle.
 
Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
>> Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
>> convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than
>> standard geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive.
>> Don't fall for it! There are still a sufficient number of
>> non-compact frames available, so you don't have to do whatever the
>> bicycle manufacturers want you to do.

>
> We need to differentiate between "compact" frames, which might allow a
> manufacturer to cut back on the number of sizes, and "sloping top
> tube" bikes, which do little more (good or bad) than allow someone
> with shorter-than-normal legs to fit a given-sized bike (if that
> person simply chose a smaller size, the issue would be the top tube
> becoming too short). Beyond that, it's style points.
>
> If you look at what Trek did with the '08 Madone lineup, they
> essentially doubled the number if size options when they went to a
> sloping top tube. Almost every model they make is available with
> either a standard head tube height (as used on all prior Madones and
> every other Trek "racing" bike they've made since 1992), which is
> called the "Pro" fit, or the exact same frame (by exact, I mean every
> single dimension, angles, chainstay length, everything) with a 3cm
> taller head tube, called the "Performance" fit.
> Not one size (50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm for men's) was dropped,
> and in fact they added a 64cm in some models.
>
> Other manufacturers may or may not have done something similar. My
> point is that, just because it has a sloping top tube and someone
> decides to call it a "compact" frame, has nothing to do with limiting
> sizing options. Could even be the opposite.
>

That's a perspective from the manufacturer side. I thought there was also an
advantage from the retailer side. If you carried a compact frame model,
could you "cover the waterfront" more easily with fewer optionss? Inventory
has bound to be a problem with a small business like a bike shop, especially
in dealing with taller or shorter people. Nobody likes to wait.
 
On Sep 23, 1:18 pm, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
> landotter wrote:
> > That's ********. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
> > using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
> > comfortable height.

>
> > You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
> > ******** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
> > frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.

>
> There _is_ a tendency for shops toe sell frames that are too small.
>
> It has nothing to do with looks.
>
> You need to understand the inherent disadvantages in the compact frame
> geometry for the vast majority of riders that are of "normal" proportions.


Please regal us with all the details, oh Wise One!
 
On Sep 23, 10:56 am, landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 23, 10:45 am, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Sparky wrote:
> > > I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
> > > the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
> > > $1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
> > > are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
> > > a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
> > > MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
> > > be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

>
> > Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most riders,
> > a compact frame is a very bad idea.

>
> [drivelsnip]
>
> That's ********. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
> using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
> comfortable height.


Agreed. For someone who wants a high(er) handlebar position, a sloping
TT makes a whole lot of sense.


>
> You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
> ******** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
> frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.
 
>> Other manufacturers may or may not have done something similar. My
>> point is that, just because it has a sloping top tube and someone
>> decides to call it a "compact" frame, has nothing to do with limiting
>> sizing options. Could even be the opposite.
>>

> That's a perspective from the manufacturer side. I thought there was also
> an advantage from the retailer side. If you carried a compact frame model,
> could you "cover the waterfront" more easily with fewer optionss?
> Inventory has bound to be a problem with a small business like a bike
> shop, especially in dealing with taller or shorter people. Nobody likes
> to wait.


Inventory is unquestionably a nightmare. To cover all the sizes, models &
colors available is simply impossible; a retailer must try to balance the
needs of their own customers with the correct available product. But sizing
is not an area where corners should be cut, at least not if you give more
than lip service to the idea that people come in more variations that small,
medium & large.

Giant did try to eliminate a whole lot of sizes by claiming that their
innovative compact design allowed more flexibility for fit. Dealers loved
it, at least initially, because they could stock so much less inventory,
*and* it gave customers the idea that sizing was no more difficult for
buying a road bike than socks. But ultimately market forces (and
intelligence) won out and people recognized that frame "height" was no more
important than effective top tube length ("effective" meaning the distance
forward from the bottom bracket).

People are reasonably adaptable; the need for 1cm frame height increments is
generally recognized as wasteful (added complexity with little benefit). But
3cm increments is probably the limit, with the issue often being that the
reduction on available sizes yields too great a difference in top tube
length.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Mike Kruger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
>>> Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
>>> convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than
>>> standard geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive.
>>> Don't fall for it! There are still a sufficient number of
>>> non-compact frames available, so you don't have to do whatever the
>>> bicycle manufacturers want you to do.

>>
>> We need to differentiate between "compact" frames, which might allow a
>> manufacturer to cut back on the number of sizes, and "sloping top
>> tube" bikes, which do little more (good or bad) than allow someone
>> with shorter-than-normal legs to fit a given-sized bike (if that
>> person simply chose a smaller size, the issue would be the top tube
>> becoming too short). Beyond that, it's style points.
>>
>> If you look at what Trek did with the '08 Madone lineup, they
>> essentially doubled the number if size options when they went to a
>> sloping top tube. Almost every model they make is available with
>> either a standard head tube height (as used on all prior Madones and
>> every other Trek "racing" bike they've made since 1992), which is
>> called the "Pro" fit, or the exact same frame (by exact, I mean every
>> single dimension, angles, chainstay length, everything) with a 3cm
>> taller head tube, called the "Performance" fit.
>> Not one size (50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm for men's) was dropped,
>> and in fact they added a 64cm in some models.
>>
>> Other manufacturers may or may not have done something similar. My
>> point is that, just because it has a sloping top tube and someone
>> decides to call it a "compact" frame, has nothing to do with limiting
>> sizing options. Could even be the opposite.
>>

> That's a perspective from the manufacturer side. I thought there was also
> an advantage from the retailer side. If you carried a compact frame model,
> could you "cover the waterfront" more easily with fewer optionss?
> Inventory has bound to be a problem with a small business like a bike
> shop, especially in dealing with taller or shorter people. Nobody likes
> to wait.
>
 
In article <[email protected]>,
"Mike Kruger" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
> >> Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
> >> convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than
> >> standard geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive.
> >> Don't fall for it! There are still a sufficient number of
> >> non-compact frames available, so you don't have to do whatever the
> >> bicycle manufacturers want you to do.

> >
> > We need to differentiate between "compact" frames, which might allow a
> > manufacturer to cut back on the number of sizes, and "sloping top
> > tube" bikes, which do little more (good or bad) than allow someone
> > with shorter-than-normal legs to fit a given-sized bike (if that
> > person simply chose a smaller size, the issue would be the top tube
> > becoming too short). Beyond that, it's style points.
> >
> > If you look at what Trek did with the '08 Madone lineup, they
> > essentially doubled the number if size options when they went to a
> > sloping top tube. Almost every model they make is available with
> > either a standard head tube height (as used on all prior Madones and
> > every other Trek "racing" bike they've made since 1992), which is
> > called the "Pro" fit, or the exact same frame (by exact, I mean every
> > single dimension, angles, chainstay length, everything) with a 3cm
> > taller head tube, called the "Performance" fit.
> > Not one size (50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm for men's) was dropped,
> > and in fact they added a 64cm in some models.
> >
> > Other manufacturers may or may not have done something similar. My
> > point is that, just because it has a sloping top tube and someone
> > decides to call it a "compact" frame, has nothing to do with limiting
> > sizing options. Could even be the opposite.
> >

> That's a perspective from the manufacturer side. I thought there was also an
> advantage from the retailer side. If you carried a compact frame model,
> could you "cover the waterfront" more easily with fewer optionss? Inventory
> has bound to be a problem with a small business like a bike shop, especially
> in dealing with taller or shorter people. Nobody likes to wait.


Sounds like the best of both worlds to me: the manufacturer offers as
many sizes as anyone could want (short of a custom frame) and compact
sizing (and the concommitant availability of long seatposts and more
stem sizes) allow for smaller frame inventories, if that's what the shop
desires.

For my part, I see compact sizing from the perspective of a used-bike
trader: fewer frame sizes means a greater chance that a given used bike
will fit a given buyer.

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
 

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