Component Lifespan and Replacement

[Solomander]

It's nice to be back to this newsgroup after a hiatus. I have a Campy
Daytona equipped Litespeed Classic (I still thank Peter Chisholm for
the 13 - 29 cassette recommendation every time that I ride up a steep
hill). My bike has about 8500 miles on it. Aside from changing the
cassette (bought new wheels last season). Everything else is original.
One of the shifters was rebuilt, but everything else has just had
routine appropriate maintainence. Any ideas on when I will need to
replace stuff? I guess that I am wondering most about the bottom
bracket and chain rings. I replace my chain every season, or if there
is significant evidence of stretching.

My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
it was new, so the other thing that I consider from time to time (along
with trying a carbon bike) is having the bike rebuilt with new
componentry. I would probably upgrade to at least Chorus if I did
that. I usually run between 190 and 200 lb, so the lightest possible
componentry doesn't really make a difference. What I look for in
components are things that will last with minimal intervention. For
someone like me (2000 miles a year, recreational/charity rider) is
Record worth the extra dinero?

Thanks

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Solomander wrote:
> It's nice to be back to this newsgroup after a hiatus. I have a Campy
> Daytona equipped Litespeed Classic (I still thank Peter Chisholm for
> the 13 - 29 cassette recommendation every time that I ride up a steep
> hill). My bike has about 8500 miles on it. Aside from changing the
> cassette (bought new wheels last season). Everything else is original.
> One of the shifters was rebuilt, but everything else has just had
> routine appropriate maintainence. Any ideas on when I will need to
> replace stuff? I guess that I am wondering most about the bottom
> bracket and chain rings. I replace my chain every season, or if there
> is significant evidence of stretching.
>
> My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
> it was new, so the other thing that I consider from time to time (along
> with trying a carbon bike) is having the bike rebuilt with new
> componentry. I would probably upgrade to at least Chorus if I did
> that. I usually run between 190 and 200 lb, so the lightest possible
> componentry doesn't really make a difference. What I look for in
> components are things that will last with minimal intervention. For
> someone like me (2000 miles a year, recreational/charity rider) is
> Record worth the extra dinero?

Probably not...chains, cogsets, regular OVH of the levers, hubs,
HS...when the BB feels like it's notchy, get a new one. New components
won't 'work' better than newly OVH ones...when the RD gets sloppy, type
thing. I use 1986 C-Record stuff on my bike, levers, hubs,
brakes...just replaced the RD after about 16 years, with a new C-Record
one.
>
> Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

Solomander wrote:
> It's nice to be back to this newsgroup after a hiatus. I have a Campy
> Daytona equipped Litespeed Classic (I still thank Peter Chisholm for
> the 13 - 29 cassette recommendation every time that I ride up a steep
> hill). My bike has about 8500 miles on it. Aside from changing the
> cassette (bought new wheels last season). Everything else is original.
> One of the shifters was rebuilt,

Was the Daytona shifter rebuilt to allow 10 speed indexing? I don't
recall Daytona ever being offered in 10 speed.


but everything else has just had
> routine appropriate maintainence. Any ideas on when I will need to
> replace stuff? I guess that I am wondering most about the bottom
> bracket and chain rings.

Chainrings last 10s and 10s and 10s of thousands of miles.


I replace my chain every season, or if there
> is significant evidence of stretching.
>
> My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
> it was new,

Overhaul the Ergo shifters. New G springs. Check for any broken parts
such as the G spring carrier, even though you do not have the 1998
carrier that is destined to break. And get rid of all of the grease
inside the Ergo levers. It just gums things up and makes shifting
worse. Use oil or a lightweight spray in lubricant.



so the other thing that I consider from time to time (along
> with trying a carbon bike) is having the bike rebuilt with new
> componentry. I would probably upgrade to at least Chorus if I did
> that. I usually run between 190 and 200 lb, so the lightest possible
> componentry doesn't really make a difference. What I look for in
> components are things that will last with minimal intervention. For
> someone like me (2000 miles a year, recreational/charity rider) is
> Record worth the extra dinero?
>
> Thanks

 

[Arthur Harris]

"Solomander" wrote:
> My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
> it was new...

Before doing anything drastic, try replacing the cables and housings. Use
5mm "SIS" type housing and metal ferrules. Keep the BB cable guides clean
and lubed.

Art Harris

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Solomander wrote:

> It's nice to be back to this newsgroup after a hiatus. I have a Campy
> Daytona equipped Litespeed Classic (I still thank Peter Chisholm for
> the 13 - 29 cassette recommendation every time that I ride up a steep
> hill). My bike has about 8500 miles on it. Aside from changing the
> cassette (bought new wheels last season). Everything else is original.
> One of the shifters was rebuilt, but everything else has just had
> routine appropriate maintainence. Any ideas on when I will need to
> replace stuff? I guess that I am wondering most about the bottom
> bracket and chain rings. I replace my chain every season, or if there
> is significant evidence of stretching.
>
> My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
> it was new, so the other thing that I consider from time to time (along
> with trying a carbon bike) is having the bike rebuilt with new
> componentry. I would probably upgrade to at least Chorus if I did
> that. I usually run between 190 and 200 lb, so the lightest possible
> componentry doesn't really make a difference. What I look for in
> components are things that will last with minimal intervention. For
> someone like me (2000 miles a year, recreational/charity rider) is
> Record worth the extra dinero?

Drivetrain bits when they wear out (you should get 3 chains' worth from
a cassette and more than one cassette to a chainring).

Bar and stem every 10,000 miles or so, just to be on the safe side.

Is is just me that destroys Shimano bottom brackets in under 2000 miles?

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

[email protected] wrote:
> Solomander wrote:
> > It's nice to be back to this newsgroup after a hiatus. I have a Campy
> > Daytona equipped Litespeed Classic (I still thank Peter Chisholm for
> > the 13 - 29 cassette recommendation every time that I ride up a steep
> > hill). My bike has about 8500 miles on it. Aside from changing the
> > cassette (bought new wheels last season). Everything else is original.
> > One of the shifters was rebuilt,
>
> Was the Daytona shifter rebuilt to allow 10 speed indexing? I don't
> recall Daytona ever being offered in 10 speed.

Daytona was 10s in 2001, then became Centaur in 2002...for info-
>
>
> but everything else has just had
> > routine appropriate maintainence. Any ideas on when I will need to
> > replace stuff? I guess that I am wondering most about the bottom
> > bracket and chain rings.
>
> Chainrings last 10s and 10s and 10s of thousands of miles.
>
>
> I replace my chain every season, or if there
> > is significant evidence of stretching.
> >
> > My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
> > it was new,
>
> Overhaul the Ergo shifters. New G springs. Check for any broken parts
> such as the G spring carrier, even though you do not have the 1998
> carrier that is destined to break. And get rid of all of the grease
> inside the Ergo levers. It just gums things up and makes shifting
> worse. Use oil or a lightweight spray in lubricant.
>
>
>
> so the other thing that I consider from time to time (along
> > with trying a carbon bike) is having the bike rebuilt with new
> > componentry. I would probably upgrade to at least Chorus if I did
> > that. I usually run between 190 and 200 lb, so the lightest possible
> > componentry doesn't really make a difference. What I look for in
> > components are things that will last with minimal intervention. For
> > someone like me (2000 miles a year, recreational/charity rider) is
> > Record worth the extra dinero?
> >
> > Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

yeah: lube and groove - try finish line teflon dry lube at housing ends
- stand it up/upsdiedown and drip downward with gravity flow.
but it'll wear out: 8500 is totally past due with attentive lubrication
and cleaning. new bearings/repacks at 2500!

 

[Solomander]

Thanks for the info. My Daytona shifters are 10 speed. I had the
cables changed about 700 miles ago. I think that I will try a new
shop the next time I get my bike serviced.

Best,

Joel

 

[Peter Cole]

Zog The Undeniable wrote:

> Drivetrain bits when they wear out (you should get 3 chains' worth from
> a cassette and more than one cassette to a chainring).
>
> Bar and stem every 10,000 miles or so, just to be on the safe side.

No way, unless they're stupid-light

> Is is just me that destroys Shimano bottom brackets in under 2000 miles?

I get about 10x that at least. Plain old UN-52's.

 

[Gregory McGuire]

You could try/check your derailluer pullys for wear. If your derailluer is
not shifting crisply, the derailluer pullys do wear out, and cause sloppy
shifting. Suspect the top pully to wear out first, it pulls and pushes the
chain up and down the cassette.
Check for side to side wobble by pushing the pully with your finger, if it
moves much at all it is worn and can be low cost solution to crisp shifting.
A new set with bearings, cost me less than $15 and fixed my bike.
greg
"Solomander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's nice to be back to this newsgroup after a hiatus. I have a Campy
> Daytona equipped Litespeed Classic (I still thank Peter Chisholm for
> the 13 - 29 cassette recommendation every time that I ride up a steep
> hill). My bike has about 8500 miles on it. Aside from changing the
> cassette (bought new wheels last season). Everything else is original.
> One of the shifters was rebuilt, but everything else has just had
> routine appropriate maintainence. Any ideas on when I will need to
> replace stuff? I guess that I am wondering most about the bottom
> bracket and chain rings. I replace my chain every season, or if there
> is significant evidence of stretching.
>
> My bike, despite maintainence, doesn't shift as crisply as it did when
> it was new, so the other thing that I consider from time to time (along
> with trying a carbon bike) is having the bike rebuilt with new
> componentry. I would probably upgrade to at least Chorus if I did
> that. I usually run between 190 and 200 lb, so the lightest possible
> componentry doesn't really make a difference. What I look for in
> components are things that will last with minimal intervention. For
> someone like me (2000 miles a year, recreational/charity rider) is
> Record worth the extra dinero?
>
> Thanks
>

 

[Mark Janeba]

Gregory McGuire wrote:
> You could try/check your derailluer pullys for wear. If your derailluer is
> not shifting crisply, the derailluer pullys do wear out, and cause sloppy
> shifting. Suspect the top pully to wear out first, it pulls and pushes the
> chain up and down the cassette.
> Check for side to side wobble by pushing the pully with your finger, if it
> moves much at all it is worn and can be low cost solution to crisp shifting.

Ummm... both Shimano and Campagnolo top pulleys are *designed* with a
small amount of side-to-side float, to improve shifting.

Without getting into an argument about whether it really helps, or
whether actual pulley wear will degrade shifting, side-to-side motion of
the *top* pulley is not a reliable sign of wear.

Mark