Component upgrade question...



the cyclops

New Member
Jul 25, 2010
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I have a entry level Jamis allegro 1,with entry level SRAM X3 rear derailleur and SRAM front derailleur .Is there any use in upgrading to something like a shimano deore or some "middle of the road" components as I can not afford dura ace or the high end stuff.Will going a few steps up even really matter,or should I just save up for some nice stuff???
 

daveryanwyoming

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Oct 3, 2006
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Is there a problem with your current components you're trying to solve? Do you miss shifts or have other issues that cause you troubles while out riding or are you hoping for some other kind of performance increase by upgrading components.

Basically if it aint broke don't fix it unless you've got cash to burn or want to upgrade for aesthetics. You may save a handful of grams and if your current components aren't performing well due to wear and tear then you'll likely get cleaner shifting with an upgrade.

I'd happily race on anything Rival or above in the SRAM product line or 105 and above with Shimano. It's been a while since I ran Campy so I can't comment on their current offerings. Point is you don't need to go to the top line components to get great performance and often the second or third tier components are a much better value. If you're really unhappy with your current stuff then I'd price something at the Rival or 105 or perhaps Force or Ultegra level and see if it fits your budget as those are very high performance components at prices that are a lot more reasonable than Red or DuraAce.

-Dave
 

the cyclops

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Jul 25, 2010
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No weight is not an issue,it is set up for commuting/crosstraining.It is hard to get into 3on the crank a lot of times,and certain gears "rub"the front derailleur.It has been like that since I bought it and I had a local bike shop try and adjust/tune it up properly and I was told it would do that until I got some better components.To me,I have a very nice bike,nice light aluminum fram,I mean I love my bike,but the shifitng is just clanky over all.
 

Eichers

Member
Sep 17, 2010
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Hi cyclops, you could always upgrade your X3 to an X7 or X9, one piece at time to see if it makes the difference that you are after or even upgrade your chain first because quality of the chain can definitely make a difference, also.
 

the cyclops

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Jul 25, 2010
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Originally Posted by KLabs .

Hi cyclops, you could always upgrade your X3 to an X7 or X9, one piece at time to see if it makes the difference that you are after or even upgrade your chain first because quality of the chain can definitely make a difference, also.
I did not realize the quality of chain could make a difference? Thats something to think about,thanks.
 

the cyclops

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Jul 25, 2010
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Originally Posted by KLabs .

Hi cyclops, you could always upgrade your X3 to an X7 or X9, one piece at time to see if it makes the difference that you are after or even upgrade your chain first because quality of the chain can definitely make a difference, also.
I did not realize the quality of chain could make a difference? Thats something to think about,thanks.
 

OldGoat

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Nov 13, 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the cyclops .

Also it has a bad habit of throwing the chain when going from 2 to 1.


Get yourself an N-Gear Jump Stop; you'll never experience this particular problem again.
http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html

From your description of your bike's various issues, it seems to me most likely that your drivetrain is not properly adjusted, irrespective of what your LBS wrench said. For example, the chain-throwing problem suggests that the low stop-limit screw on your front derailleur should be turned in a couple of twists. You might want to take a looks at the "Repair" section of the Park Tool website. Derailleur adjustments are not brain surgery; and the photo-illustrated guides they provide are excellent.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems
 

the cyclops

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Jul 25, 2010
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Originally Posted by OldGoat .

Quote:

Get yourself an N-Gear Jump Stop; you'll never experience this particular problem again.
http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html

From your description of your bike's various issues, it seems to me most likely that your drivetrain is not properly adjusted, irrespective of what your LBS wrench said. For example, the chain-throwing problem suggests that the low stop-limit screw on your front derailleur should be turned in a couple of twists. You might want to take a looks at the "Repair" section of the Park Tool website. Derailleur adjustments are not brain surgery; and the photo-illustrated guides they provide are excellent.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

Hey thanks man.I kind of thought the LBS was just trying to sell me some stuff.It has a hard time going into 3,and sometimes goes to far (completly off) going into 1.
I bought the bike about 45min away for price and availability reasons,and I do get free maintance but it is so far away that the gas I would put in,I could just pay a few bucks more and get it adjusted locally.I do have a different shop that I have not taken it to that has been recomended,maybe I will take it there if the links you provided doesnt do the trick for me.Thanks again
BTW-Another reason I was thinkng of upgrading is because I want the bike to be as dependable as possible as I do commute,and do so at night through some sketchy areas quite often,But I believe upgrading wouldnt effect the depenability so much as it would the performance,correct?
 

swampy1970

Well-Known Member
Feb 3, 2008
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Originally Posted by the cyclops .

No weight is not an issue,it is set up for commuting/crosstraining.It is hard to get into 3on the crank a lot of times,and certain gears "rub"the front derailleur.It has been like that since I bought it and I had a local bike shop try and adjust/tune it up properly and I was told it would do that until I got some better components.To me,I have a very nice bike,nice light aluminum fram,I mean I love my bike,but the shifitng is just clanky over all.
I'm taking a wild guess here that you have a triple chainset by your "3on the crank" comment.

The components you have should work as I doubt the manufacturer would have cobbled together a bike that didn't work. What you really need is a different bike shop. Even better than that, head off to the SRAM website and get the instructions and do it yourself. Stuff like this is pretty easy once you've had a good read and understood what's required.

http://www.sram.com/en/service/
 

the cyclops

New Member
Jul 25, 2010
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Originally Posted by swampy1970 .




I'm taking a wild guess here that you have a triple chainset by your "3on the crank" comment.

The components you have should work as I doubt the manufacturer would have cobbled together a bike that didn't work. What you really need is a different bike shop. Even better than that, head off to the SRAM website and get the instructions and do it yourself. Stuff like this is pretty easy once you've had a good read and understood what's required.

http://www.sram.com/en/service/


The bike shop that looked at it is a specialized dealer and thats all they sale...The one I am going to take it to next is just a general BS and from what I have heard they are honest?We will see.Im just weird about working on my new bike like that I guess,not hady in that regard.Electronics or computers? Im your man!!! Fixing a bicycle...not so much.And yes I have a triple chainset,or at least now I know what it is called/img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif Thanks for your input man,
 

davereo

Well-Known Member
Jun 17, 2010
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Nine times out of ten the only adjustment needed to smooth out a drive train is adjusting the cable tension. If you are having a hard time getting into your #3 you only need to increase the cable tension by turning the barrel adjuster outwards. This should give you enough pull to get your chain onto your 3rd wheel. The same goes for the rear deraileur if you are in #8 and shift once to #7 and the chain does not move you only need to add a little more cable tension by backing out the barrel adjuster.
This is the free tune up the LBS's are offering you when they sell you a bike they only tighten up the cables and maybe oil a few lube points. Sounds to me that your cables have seated them selfs into the stops and stretched a little along the way.
The barrel adjusters are the threaded ends of your cables located at the deraileurs and the shift pods. Count how many clicks you make when you try your first adjustments if the situations improves you have made the adjustment in the proper direction if not you need to go in the opposite direction. By counting the clicks you know how far to go back and make your new adjustment from there.
Good Luck
 

the cyclops

New Member
Jul 25, 2010
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Hey guys!!! I just rode back from the LBS here in Hickory and they fixed every issue I had w/the bike!!! Jeez,you guys were right for sure,the other LBS a few miles further down the road was yanking my chain.(pun intended) The tech said I simply needed it "fine tuned",and that the front was pretty out of whack and fixed it by turning some screws and something w/the tension??? But the back was OK,just needed a little work.He also said that for the type of riding I am doing that the components I had was fine,and that he would not change them.He test rode it,and encouraged me too as well before I left,but I just rode the 8miles home w/a smile on my face/img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif and to top it all off,he qouted me $8 a piece to to the derailleurs and only charged me $6 a piece because of the little amount of work that needed done...I have found my LBS that will be taking care of my baby from now on.