Components for a road bike with upright bars

[David B]

I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

Dave

 

[vey]

David B wrote:
> I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.
>
> Dave
>

Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.

I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
north road bars.

Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.

You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.

You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
some expensive mistakes.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

 

[vey]

David B wrote:
> I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.
>
> Dave
>

Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.

I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
north road bars.

Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.

You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.

You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
some expensive mistakes.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

 

[Dave Mayer]

"David B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).

Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to the
limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and wrists go
numb in short order.

My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components?

Not many, mainly braking. Obviously you'll be using road wheels. On
mountain bike hubs the rear axle will be too wide to fit in a road bike
stays.

> Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel?

Yes. 8/9/10 speed hubs are cross compatible.

> Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers?

Yes. You're going to have to do some research here to match the lever cable
pull with the road brakes.

> Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components?

Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.

Any advice appreciated.
>
> Dave
>

 

[Dave Mayer]

"David B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).

Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to the
limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and wrists go
numb in short order.

My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components?

Not many, mainly braking. Obviously you'll be using road wheels. On
mountain bike hubs the rear axle will be too wide to fit in a road bike
stays.

> Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel?

Yes. 8/9/10 speed hubs are cross compatible.

> Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers?

Yes. You're going to have to do some research here to match the lever cable
pull with the road brakes.

> Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components?

Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.

Any advice appreciated.
>
> Dave
>

 

[Steve Gravrock]

On 2007-11-04, David B <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.


Cassette and rear derailer: Use what you have (assuming Shimano or
compatible) or buy "mountain" parts if you need wider gearing.

Brakes and levers: Keep your existing brakes and get levers intended
for cantilever brakes (not V brakes)

Front derailer: Road front derailers don't index with mountain shifters.
Either get a friction shifter for the front, or one of these derailers:
<http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=964>

That said, what problem are you trying to solve by going to flat bars?
You mentioned touring. Most people advise against flat bars for long-
distance use because they only provide one hand position, and that one
position can be hard on the wrists.

 

[Steve Gravrock]

On 2007-11-04, David B <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.


Cassette and rear derailer: Use what you have (assuming Shimano or
compatible) or buy "mountain" parts if you need wider gearing.

Brakes and levers: Keep your existing brakes and get levers intended
for cantilever brakes (not V brakes)

Front derailer: Road front derailers don't index with mountain shifters.
Either get a friction shifter for the front, or one of these derailers:
<http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=964>

That said, what problem are you trying to solve by going to flat bars?
You mentioned touring. Most people advise against flat bars for long-
distance use because they only provide one hand position, and that one
position can be hard on the wrists.

 

[David B]

Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
interesting but it looks like
an odd angle for work an STS shifter.


On Nov 4, 9:38 am, vey <[email protected]> wrote:
> David B wrote:
> > I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> > used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> > preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> > regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> > bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> > wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> > possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> > preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> > mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.
>
> > Dave
>
> Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
> If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
> they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
> comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.
>
> I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
> which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
> are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
> out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
> north road bars.
>
> Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
> places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
> neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.
>
> You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.
>
> You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
> some expensive mistakes.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins...www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

 

[David B]

Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
interesting but it looks like
an odd angle for work an STS shifter.


On Nov 4, 9:38 am, vey <[email protected]> wrote:
> David B wrote:
> > I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> > used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> > preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> > regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> > bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> > wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> > possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> > preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> > mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.
>
> > Dave
>
> Beginning at the beginning . . . Are you sure that you want a "mtn bar"?
> If you mean Mountain Style bar, those are also called "flat" bars and
> they certainly do not work for upright sitting. In fact, they are less
> comfortable than drop bars. Puts more pressure on the shoulders and wrists.
>
> I think that the best bars for upright sitting are "North Road" bars,
> which is what the old 3-speed bikes used. Next down would be bars that
> are used on hybrids or comfort bikes that are slightly raised, but angle
> out more than the North Road bars do. Some of the new comfort bikes use
> north road bars.
>
> Some people like the mustache bars because they like all the different
> places the hands can be placed, but for just riding around the
> neighborhood, hand moving isn't much of a problem.
>
> You may also want to buy a longer stem, which will raise any handlebars.
>
> You should read what Sheldon has to say about all this before you make
> some expensive mistakes.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins...www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#northroad

 

[Hank Wirtz]

On Nov 4, 8:44 am, "Dave Mayer" <[email protected]> wrote:

> > Another
> > possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> > preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> > mtn shifting system with road components?
>
> Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.
>

Clarification: REAR will work OK, but Shimano road and Mtn FDs have
different cable pull ratios. If you keep everything mountain parts,
you'll be OK, but that limits you to a 44T big chainring.

 

[Hank Wirtz]

On Nov 4, 8:44 am, "Dave Mayer" <[email protected]> wrote:

> > Another
> > possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> > preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> > mtn shifting system with road components?
>
> Yes, if you're talking about current Shimano derailleurs.
>

Clarification: REAR will work OK, but Shimano road and Mtn FDs have
different cable pull ratios. If you keep everything mountain parts,
you'll be OK, but that limits you to a 44T big chainring.

 

[Michael Press]

In article
<[email protected]>,
David B <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

This question was asked and answered here within
the last 2 weeks.

--
Michael Press

 

[Michael Press]

In article
<[email protected]>,
David B <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar). My question is
> regarding components. Are there any issues with setting up a road
> bike with all mtn components? Would the cassette fit on a 700c
> wheel? Any brake issues using a road brake with mtn levers? Another
> possibility is to buy a road triple groupset (this would be my
> preference). My question here is if I can use a rapid fire or other
> mtn shifting system with road components? Any advice appreciated.

This question was asked and answered here within
the last 2 weeks.

--
Michael Press

 

[NickP]

"Dave Mayer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:UFmXi.176562$th2.147357@pd7urf3no...
> "David B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
>> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
>> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).
>
> Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
> bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to
> the limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and
> wrists go numb in short order.
>
That's too doctrinaire. I recently setup a touring bike for my wife based on
a Thorn Raven frame with Rohloff hub and flat bars with contoured rips and
barends fitted. She has about 30 years experience of riding
10000-12000km/year with drop bars, and she reckons this bike is just as
comfortable, and decidedly more comfortable when it come to prolonged
braking on mountain passes. She's done several rides of 80-100km on this
bike with no hand/arm problems at all.

Nick

 

[NickP]

"Dave Mayer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:UFmXi.176562$th2.147357@pd7urf3no...
> "David B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a road frame I'm building up for my wife. It will mostly be
>> used for riding on local roads, paved bike trail and tours. Her
>> preference is to have an upright handlebar (mtn bar).
>
> Maybe for short rides (<10km). I have road bikes set up both ways. Drop
> bars are much more comfortable for any kind of distance riding. Due to
> the limited riding positions on flat (mtn.) bars, I find my hands and
> wrists go numb in short order.
>
That's too doctrinaire. I recently setup a touring bike for my wife based on
a Thorn Raven frame with Rohloff hub and flat bars with contoured rips and
barends fitted. She has about 30 years experience of riding
10000-12000km/year with drop bars, and she reckons this bike is just as
comfortable, and decidedly more comfortable when it come to prolonged
braking on mountain passes. She's done several rides of 80-100km on this
bike with no hand/arm problems at all.

Nick

 

[Steve Gravrock]

On 2007-11-04, David B <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
> has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
> and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
> interesting but it looks like
> an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
perhaps shorter reach as well.

Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.

 

[Steve Gravrock]

On 2007-11-04, David B <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
> has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
> and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
> interesting but it looks like
> an odd angle for work an STS shifter.

If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
perhaps shorter reach as well.

Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.

 

[Lou Holtman]

Steve Gravrock wrote:
> On 2007-11-04, David B <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
>> has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
>> and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
>> interesting but it looks like
>> an odd angle for work an STS shifter.
>
> If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
> marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
> bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
> perhaps shorter reach as well.
>
> Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
> less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
> and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.


If a woman's mind is set, nothing you can do.
Drop bar = racing = uncomfortable = 'I want flat bars'. Period ;-)

Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)

 

[Lou Holtman]

Steve Gravrock wrote:
> On 2007-11-04, David B <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Thanks for the links. I misspoke when I said flat bar. She currently
>> has a mountain bike with race face riser bar
>> and likes the more upright position. The Moustache bars are
>> interesting but it looks like
>> an odd angle for work an STS shifter.
>
> If you don't change anything else, a riser bar will only give her a
> marginally more upright position than the tops of a drop bar on the same
> bike. Most likely you'll want a stem that's quite a bit taller and
> perhaps shorter reach as well.
>
> Are you building up a bare frame from scratch, or converting a more or
> less complete bike? If the latter, I'd suggest raising the bars first
> and then switching to a flat bar if she's still not satisfied.


If a woman's mind is set, nothing you can do.
Drop bar = racing = uncomfortable = 'I want flat bars'. Period ;-)

Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)