cone wrench vs pedal wrench
- Thread starter hwttdz
- Start date
Metric crescent wrench, ha, that's funny, haven't heard that before. On a more serious note it looks like it would be too narrow for a crescent wrench, not that I have any here. The pedal wrench on the other hand is quite narrow and I guess it'll work just fine.
Yeah, they feel pretty rough, which I'm disappointed about. What is the main cause of having to repack the bearings? am I getting water in there? dirt? Would a higher quality wheelset require less maintenance?
What greases can people recommend as good ones for this use. Right now I'm thinking Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease.
Yeah, they feel pretty rough, which I'm disappointed about. What is the main cause of having to repack the bearings? am I getting water in there? dirt? Would a higher quality wheelset require less maintenance?
What greases can people recommend as good ones for this use. Right now I'm thinking Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease.
There are a number of causes to that, grease drying out, water getting in, dirt, etc. If it feels rough, check for pitting on the cones and wear on the bearings. It would still feel rough even if you repack the bearings when there is pitting/wear. Replace the bearings/cones if necessary.hwttdz said:
Higher quality wheelsets have better seals and some use cartridge bearings, but they don't eliminate the need for routine maintenance.
I just use a light automotive grease when repacking bearings.
HTH
Well, the way a clever person does it is just loosen and remove the locknut and cone from one side of the axel(left side in the rear) pull out the axel with the cone and locknut still affixed.Service and repack bearings. Insert axel. Tighten cone to adjust bearing using anything that works to hold locknut/cone on opposite side. Usually fingers work, since you aren't really cranking down on the adjusting cone. Once adjusted,use cone wrench to hold cone and metric cresent wrnch to tighten the locknut....You could use a cone wrench on the opposite side,but you don't really have to.hwttdz said:
I think a better approach, and as recommended in Barnetts guide, is to use a hub axle vise (or a spare drop out) and adjust the other locknut/cone under simulated pressure of the quick release. Otherwise you'll havetoo much pressure once the QR is closed well. Barnetts recommends being able to feel play in the bearings when the QR is at a 45 degree angle and no play fully closed under recommended closing force.
boudreaux said:
jasong said:
That is the ideal method. Unfortunately, most hubs do not allow adjustment of the bearings while the wheel is mounted, simulated or otherwise. My American Classic rear hub is one such model that allows adjustment while mounted. Some Campy hubs and Chris King also allow it. The general rule is if the locknut is bearing against the dropout, you need to adjust off the bike and leave the bearings somewhat loose.
The axle vise is not only recommended, it makes the adjustment far easier. If you have a bench vise, its a very low cost addition.
I'm not sure I'm familiar with those that aren't. Would you consider normal Shimano (ie. 105/ultegra) to be of this variety? Or which don't fall into that category? And you're proposing keeping a 5mm nut or the QR bolt pressing against the threaded axle on the opposite side? Yeah, it doesn't exactly simulate the compression of the dropout against the lock nut, but it seems to come close since opening the QR slightly introduces play and with it compressed, there is no play. Much like in the vise.
Weisse Luft said:
How are you defining successfully? I'd say those that do this a few times a day definitely have a feel for it and may not need more precision, much like those that have tuned their senses with a torque wrench and don't need it either. The vise method will definitely save time. Barnetts even goes further than one would seem practical or necessary with their sticker add on. You've read his chapter on this?
boudreaux said:Makes ya wunder how people do this sucessfully for years with just a cone wrench or two..
