Convert DT shifters, drop 'bars to flat bar, twisters

[[email protected]]

I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
freewheel ingredients, too.

The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000. Is there a 6 or
7sp twistgrip shifter that will work with these derailleurs on a
particular 6 or 7sp freewheel? Yup, I want to do this on the cheap if
possible and I do have a decent rear FW-style wheel or two still
hanging 'round.

I'd appreciate any advice in getting this decent old steel-frame bike
(a Zebra) set up with flat bars, as drop bars are not going to work
for the intended rider due to hand problems. Thanks! --D-y

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Feb 24, 2:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
> twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
> freewheel ingredients, too.
>
> The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000.

Suntour dx 5000 doesn't ring a bell.....might it be a Suntour Alpha
5000 (a lower case "alpha" can kinda look like ax or dx)? IIRC, that
is an Accushift (i.e., indexable) RD. (The way to be sure is to check
if the upper pivot is sprung, as in modern, indexable RDs. If it
isn't, the RD is friction only.) Anyway, if it *is* indexable, some of
the El-Cheapo Shimano Tourney or SunRace 6SP indexed thumb shifters
*might* index acceptably over an evenly spaced 6SP freewheel, with
some experimenting re:cable attachment at the RD. A 6SP "twistgrip"
shifter (SunRace) would have the same chance of working, but it'll
cost ya more to find out.


> Is there a 6 or
> 7sp twistgrip shifter that will work with these derailleurs on a
> particular 6 or 7sp freewheel? Yup, I want to do this on the cheap if
> possible and I do have a decent rear FW-style wheel or two still
> hanging 'round.
>
> I'd appreciate any advice in getting this decent old steel-frame bike
> (a Zebra) set up with flat bars, as drop bars are not going to work
> for the intended rider due to hand problems. Thanks! --D-y

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Feb 24, 5:31 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 24, 2:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
> > twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
> > freewheel ingredients, too.
>
> > The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000.
>
> Suntour dx 5000 doesn't ring a bell.....might it be a Suntour Alpha
> 5000 (a lower case "alpha" can kinda look like ax or dx)? IIRC, that
> is an Accushift (i.e., indexable) RD. (The way to be sure is to check
> if the upper pivot is sprung, as in modern, indexable RDs. If it
> isn't, the RD is friction only.) Anyway, if it *is* indexable, some of
> the El-Cheapo Shimano Tourney or SunRace 6SP indexed thumb shifters
> *might* index acceptably over an evenly spaced 6SP freewheel, with
> some experimenting re:cable attachment at the RD. A 6SP "twistgrip"
> shifter (SunRace) would have the same chance of working, but it'll
> cost ya more to find out.

I should also add that an El-Cheapo (~ $10) Shimano Tourney RD will
solve all the uncertainty.

 

[landotter]

On Feb 24, 2:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
> twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
> freewheel ingredients, too.
>
> The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000. Is there a 6 or
> 7sp twistgrip shifter that will work with these derailleurs on a
> particular 6 or 7sp freewheel? Yup, I want to do this on the cheap if
> possible and I do have a decent rear FW-style wheel or two still
> hanging 'round.
>
> I'd appreciate any advice in getting this decent old steel-frame bike
> (a Zebra) set up with flat bars, as drop bars are not going to work
> for the intended rider due to hand problems. Thanks! --D-y

Flat bars and twist shifters are probably the most uncomfortable and
nasty thing to expose hands to. Why not just purchase a Nitto extra
long stem and get the bars in the air? Much cheaper. Clicky downtube
lever can be had for a song if need be, but switching to a hyperglide
F/W and chain will make shifting so nice you'll probably be able to do
without.

I'd think about using a Technomic and some moustache handlebars, which
accept road brake levers.

http://tinyurl.com/3yg2d5

If you want a very natural hand position, "North Road" style bars are
the nicest on your hands for shorter rides. They take mtb style levers.

 

[[email protected]]

On Feb 24, 5:58 pm, "landotter" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Flat bars and twist shifters are probably the most uncomfortable and
> nasty thing to expose hands to. Why not just purchase a Nitto extra
> long stem and get the bars in the air?

We have some special needs here, including functional pain. Twisters
work, from using another bike so equipped. Drop bars with normal (old
style) road brake levers were dodgy. To be used for a school commute
of about 1-1/2 miles, one-way, so time in use will be pretty short.

> I'd think about using a Technomic and some moustache handlebars, which
> accept road brake levers.

We've looked at mustache bars. Attractive, but road brake levers,
thumb shifter levers are probably not going to work. But, we should go
do a test ride at the FLBS to be more sure. Again, the twisters and
brake levers on our Specialized "comfort" bike have proven to be
usable and most important, safe.

> If you want a very natural hand position, "North Road" style bars are
> the nicest on your hands for shorter rides. They take mtb style levers.

Ref. for N-R bars, Harris Cylery, saved.

Thanks for your post. We're going to check out options for the future.
Right now, I'd like to put this thing together so she can ride it
safely for the rest of the school year, approx., and then maybe
graduate to something else later depending on how things go. --D-y

 

[[email protected]]

On Feb 24, 5:51 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> > Suntour dx 5000 doesn't ring a bell.....might it be a Suntour Alpha
> > 5000 (a lower case "alpha" can kinda look like ax or dx)?

Ha ha, both front and rear der. labels are defaced, slightly.

Appreciate the suggestions, will check out "what it is".

The weather improved and Dad didn't have the (new, lighter) bike
ready, o the shame of it all... --D-y

 

[Ryan Cousineau]

In article <[email protected]>,
"Ozark Bicycle" <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Feb 24, 5:31 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Feb 24, 2:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
> > > twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
> > > freewheel ingredients, too.
> >
> > > The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000.
> >
> > Suntour dx 5000 doesn't ring a bell.....might it be a Suntour Alpha
> > 5000 (a lower case "alpha" can kinda look like ax or dx)? IIRC, that
> > is an Accushift (i.e., indexable) RD. (The way to be sure is to check
> > if the upper pivot is sprung, as in modern, indexable RDs. If it
> > isn't, the RD is friction only.) Anyway, if it *is* indexable, some of
> > the El-Cheapo Shimano Tourney or SunRace 6SP indexed thumb shifters
> > *might* index acceptably over an evenly spaced 6SP freewheel, with
> > some experimenting re:cable attachment at the RD. A 6SP "twistgrip"
> > shifter (SunRace) would have the same chance of working, but it'll
> > cost ya more to find out.

The Accushift stuff uses variable cog spacing, and is thus virtually
impossible to shift except with Accushift levers or via friction
shifting:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Suntour-Alpha-5000-Rear-Derailleur-NOS_W0QQitemZ26007
3403799QQihZ016QQcategoryZ27950QQcmdZViewItem

> I should also add that an El-Cheapo (~ $10) Shimano Tourney RD will
> solve all the uncertainty.

What Ozark said: a cheap Shimano derailer will work properly. If the
freewheel happens to be an Accushift one, you may need to change it out
too (hardly more expensive than the derailer).

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Feb 25, 1:36 am, Ryan Cousineau <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Ozark Bicycle" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 24, 5:31 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > On Feb 24, 2:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
> > > > twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
> > > > freewheel ingredients, too.
>
> > > > The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000.
>
> > > Suntour dx 5000 doesn't ring a bell.....might it be a Suntour Alpha
> > > 5000 (a lower case "alpha" can kinda look like ax or dx)? IIRC, that
> > > is an Accushift (i.e., indexable) RD. (The way to be sure is to check
> > > if the upper pivot is sprung, as in modern, indexable RDs. If it
> > > isn't, the RD is friction only.) Anyway, if it *is* indexable, some of
> > > the El-Cheapo Shimano Tourney or SunRace 6SP indexed thumb shifters
> > > *might* index acceptably over an evenly spaced 6SP freewheel, with
> > > some experimenting re:cable attachment at the RD. A 6SP "twistgrip"
> > > shifter (SunRace) would have the same chance of working, but it'll
> > > cost ya more to find out.
>
> The Accushift stuff uses variable cog spacing, and is thus virtually
> impossible to shift except with Accushift levers or via friction
> shifting:


The "variable spacing" is in the cluster and in the shifters, *not* in
the RD. As I said, it *might* work acceptably with currently available
shifters and (evenly spaced) FWs, given some experimentation re:cable
attachment, etc.


>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Suntour-Alpha-5000-Rear-Derailleur-NOS_W0QQitemZ2...
> 3403799QQihZ016QQcategoryZ27950QQcmdZViewItem
>
> > I should also add that an El-Cheapo (~ $10) Shimano Tourney RD will
> > solve all the uncertainty.
>
> What Ozark said: a cheap Shimano derailer will work properly. If the
> freewheel happens to be an Accushift one, you may need to change it out
> too (hardly more expensive than the derailer).
>


Agreed, the cheap Shimano RD is the best solution, IMO. The other
issue is that all the available twist shifters, AFAIK, incorporate
indexed front shifting, so the OP might be on the hook for a new FD,
as well.

 

[A Muzi]

> On Feb 24, 2:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have an old, usable road bike I'd like to change to flat bars with
>> twist shifters. It has 6sp "Japanese" FW on it; I have some Ultra 7
>> freewheel ingredients, too.
>> The derailleurs are Suntour, I think they say dx 5000. Is there a 6 or
>> 7sp twistgrip shifter that will work with these derailleurs on a
>> particular 6 or 7sp freewheel? Yup, I want to do this on the cheap if
>> possible and I do have a decent rear FW-style wheel or two still
>> hanging 'round.
>> I'd appreciate any advice in getting this decent old steel-frame bike
>> (a Zebra) set up with flat bars, as drop bars are not going to work
>> for the intended rider due to hand problems. Thanks! --D-y

landotter wrote:
> Flat bars and twist shifters are probably the most uncomfortable and
> nasty thing to expose hands to. Why not just purchase a Nitto extra
> long stem and get the bars in the air? Much cheaper. Clicky downtube
> lever can be had for a song if need be, but switching to a hyperglide
> F/W and chain will make shifting so nice you'll probably be able to do
> without.
> I'd think about using a Technomic and some moustache handlebars, which
> accept road brake levers.
> http://tinyurl.com/3yg2d5
> If you want a very natural hand position, "North Road" style bars are
> the nicest on your hands for shorter rides. They take mtb style levers.

Our opinions to one side, OP requested 'flat' bars. Given that, Ozark's
suggestion of a $15 derailleur and twist shifter seemed reasonable. I'd
add that six speed top shifters are even cheaper and more durable. If
shifting is sketchy, new modern SIS-format freewheels are cheap and
available. My experience with index six is that it's a forgiving format
even with a 'non-compatible' freewheel. YMMV.

One advantage of 'flat' bars is that a small rise (1", 2", 3") will
offer a quick fore-aft adjustment with an allen key. Handy in urban riding.

And yes, a more upright position can be achieved with many
handlebar/stem variations, as you note. The OP should peruse the many
options, I agree.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[A Muzi]

[email protected] wrote:
-snip-
> do a test ride at the FLBS to be more sure. Again, the twisters and
-snip-

Is "FLBS" an acronym for a pejorative term?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Feb 25, 3:05 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> -snip-> do a test ride at the FLBS to be more sure. Again, the twisters and
>
> -snip-
>
> Is "FLBS" an acronym for a pejorative term?



Fabulous Local Bike Shop? ;-)


>
> --
> Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[[email protected]]

On Feb 25, 2:39 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:

> Our opinions to one side, OP requested 'flat' bars. Given that, Ozark's
> suggestion of a $15 derailleur and twist shifter seemed reasonable. I'd
> add that six speed top shifters

Sorry, I don't know the term "top" shifters. Brifter? Brand/model,
please?

> are even cheaper and more durable. If
> shifting is sketchy, new modern SIS-format freewheels are cheap and
> available. My experience with index six is that it's a forgiving format
> even with a 'non-compatible' freewheel. YMMV.
>
> One advantage of 'flat' bars is that a small rise (1", 2", 3") will
> offer a quick fore-aft adjustment with an allen key. Handy in urban riding.
>
> And yes, a more upright position can be achieved with many
> handlebar/stem variations, as you note. The OP should peruse the many
> options, I agree.

That's exactly why I posted here to ask my question, is to learn of
options.

I haven't explained the situation very well. My 7th grader girl has a
congenital malformation of her hands ("digital thumb"), with further
problems brought on by ill-advised surgery meant to improve function.
The old-style drop bars and road brake levers are painful for her to
ride, and don't offer a configuration that lets her squeeze the brake
lever hard enough for safety.

What does work, proved by school commute, is the setup on the family
comfort bike, a Specialized Expedtion. Twist shifters, "flat" bar
(sorry I don't know the nomenclature in this part of the bike world),
a longer brake lever, not a shorty style like I've seen, V brake
calipers. Hands-on, strong brakes.

I appreciate the discussion, and by all means we want to look at
options. Including maybe brifters like Dad uses someday, depending on
how this all goes. For the immediate future, the object is to get
something safe and familiar to ride for the school commute and
training-- yeah, she's out busting hills on her own <g>. She showed me
her routine-- short rides but good ones!).

We've had to replace a couple of twister shifters so far on the kid/
shared bikes. Just to say: I'm not impressed except that they work as
needed, for now.

I think the main thing is to get the "sweep angle" of the bars close
to what we have, with approx. same height. That will cover the
"controls" end.

My other concern is getting dependable shifting, as there are a few
ups and downs on the school route, and at least some traffic on all
available roads between here and school. Thanks all for the
suggestions; sounds like this project is very do-able, one way or
another (incl. my favorite, "cheap"). --D-y

 

[[email protected]]

On Feb 25, 3:05 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:

> Is "FLBS" an acronym for a pejorative term?

"Friendly" is what I was thinking. I guess there are other
possibilities. English, it's a huge language, you know? --D-y

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

On Feb 25, 8:43 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 25, 2:39 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Our opinions to one side, OP requested 'flat' bars. Given that, Ozark's
> > suggestion of a $15 derailleur and twist shifter seemed reasonable. I'd
> > add that six speed top shifters
>
> Sorry, I don't know the term "top" shifters. Brifter? Brand/model,
> please?


I think Andrew is referring to the devices I called "thumb shifters"
in my original reply to you.

But, from the information you have added below, it seems certain that
they will not fit the bill.

>
> > are even cheaper and more durable. If
> > shifting is sketchy, new modern SIS-format freewheels are cheap and
> > available. My experience with index six is that it's a forgiving format
> > even with a 'non-compatible' freewheel. YMMV.
>
> > One advantage of 'flat' bars is that a small rise (1", 2", 3") will
> > offer a quick fore-aft adjustment with an allen key. Handy in urban riding.
>
> > And yes, a more upright position can be achieved with many
> > handlebar/stem variations, as you note. The OP should peruse the many
> > options, I agree.
>
> That's exactly why I posted here to ask my question, is to learn of
> options.
>
> I haven't explained the situation very well. My 7th grader girl has a
> congenital malformation of her hands ("digital thumb"), with further
> problems brought on by ill-advised surgery meant to improve function.
> The old-style drop bars and road brake levers are painful for her to
> ride, and don't offer a configuration that lets her squeeze the brake
> lever hard enough for safety.
>
> What does work, proved by school commute, is the setup on the family
> comfort bike, a Specialized Expedtion. Twist shifters, "flat" bar
> (sorry I don't know the nomenclature in this part of the bike world),
> a longer brake lever, not a shorty style like I've seen, V brake
> calipers. Hands-on, strong brakes.
>
> I appreciate the discussion, and by all means we want to look at
> options. Including maybe brifters like Dad uses someday, depending on
> how this all goes. For the immediate future, the object is to get
> something safe and familiar to ride for the school commute and
> training-- yeah, she's out busting hills on her own <g>. She showed me
> her routine-- short rides but good ones!).
>
> We've had to replace a couple of twister shifters so far on the kid/
> shared bikes. Just to say: I'm not impressed except that they work as
> needed, for now.

I've seen some Shimano "Revo" twist shifters ruined when the rider(s)
tried to shift while not pedaling. Just a thought.....


>
> I think the main thing is to get the "sweep angle" of the bars close
> to what we have, with approx. same height. That will cover the
> "controls" end.
>
> My other concern is getting dependable shifting, as there are a few
> ups and downs on the school route, and at least some traffic on all
> available roads between here and school. Thanks all for the
> suggestions; sounds like this project is very do-able, one way or
> another (incl. my favorite, "cheap"). --D-y