"Jon Isaacs" <[email protected]
> wrote in message
> >Just for info, I measured about one cm difference between a road small
> >and track high flange. I used a "converted" low flange road hub (no lockring, allen bolt
> >QR per regs) on the track a few times with no apparent problems. (Alkek,
> >"only" 33 deg. max banking.)
> People commonly do this and get away with it, but a true track hub has a reverse threaded lock
> ring none the less and for obvious reasons.
> Jon Isaacs
Yeah, but I race track and still don't use the darn thing. Gets in the way too often...
I've done several of these conversions over the years. If I remember right, there should be appx
16mm of spacers between the bearings on the FW side of the hub and the frame. The axle should be
appx 165mm for AL dropouts, or a little shorter for steel. I've been having very good luck with
American Classic FW hubs lately. I just built a Zipp 340 into a wheel using an American Classic FW
hub and their track axle kit. Should be a nice-riding wheel once I get the tire glued on.
The last "regular" hub I respaced was a Sansin/Specialized sealed bearing hub. It worked fine for my
commuting back and forth up and down some serious hills in the Washington DC area. You may be able
to use the axle that is in the hub now depending on your dropouts. If not, then your LBS should have
something that'll work.
You'll have to eyeball the chainline to make sure that the numbers I gave you above are right.
Adjust accordingly. Make sure that the cog is tight because there's not going to be a lockring.
If the wheel is already built, you'll have to re-dish. The nice thing is that there won't really be
any dish once you're done. Your wheel should turn out fairly symmetrical. (read: stronger)
It is more fun to make things work, but you have to be ready for the frustration when you're trying
to get something to do things it isn't designed for.