Converting a triple to double compact?



encephalitis

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May 22, 2003
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I am currently riding a 105 triple 52/42/30 with a 12-25 cassette. I have been reading about the FSA compact cranks in 50/34, given how I ride I think this would be just about perfect, I like long hilly rides, but dont race.

I was hoping someone would know if I would need to change either my 105 triple front or rear mech if I was to convert to the compact cranks? I have looked at the shimano tech but am unsure what the various limitations actually mean.

Thanks in advance
 
Originally posted by encephalitis
I am currently riding a 105 triple 52/42/30 with a 12-25 cassette. I have been reading about the FSA compact cranks in 50/34, given how I ride I think this would be just about perfect, I like long hilly rides, but dont race.

I was hoping someone would know if I would need to change either my 105 triple front or rear mech if I was to convert to the compact cranks? I have looked at the shimano tech but am unsure what the various limitations actually mean.

Thanks in advance

I don't know about you're particular situation, but you might consider calling Harris Cyclery in Newton Mass. Phone number: 617-244-9772. In addition to being a LBS and a mail order supplier to cyclists, they are famous for a number of reasons, including a website with lots of info (sheldonbrown.com). They've been very helpful to me on a number of occasions, including re-gearing a couple of road bikes. Good luck
 
Originally posted by encephalitis
I am currently riding a 105 triple 52/42/30 with a 12-25 cassette. I have been reading about the FSA compact cranks in 50/34, given how I ride I think this would be just about perfect, I like long hilly rides, but dont race.

I was hoping someone would know if I would need to change either my 105 triple front or rear mech if I was to convert to the compact cranks? I have looked at the shimano tech but am unsure what the various limitations actually mean.

Thanks in advance
You can use the derailers you have.
 
Yes, you can use the FD and RD you have and simply adjust the FD to use only 2 rings on Campy and Dura Ace, but the Ultegra and lower Shimano Gruppos may not be able to accomodate. You need to see your local mechanic if you can't tune it in. Also, you could get a double FD and RD and sell the triple on eBay to pay for the FSA and FD/RD (at least part of it).
 
Originally posted by Deanster
Yes, you can use the FD and RD you have and simply adjust the FD to use only 2 rings on Campy and Dura Ace, but the Ultegra and lower Shimano Gruppos may not be able to accomodate. You need to see your local mechanic if you can't tune it in. Also, you could get a double FD and RD and sell the triple on eBay to pay for the FSA and FD/RD (at least part of it).
What?? DA is either double or triple specific. All other Shimano 9 speed front shifters shift either a double or triple. It's also better to totally readjust the FD so the shifter uses the small and middle positions and the former big positionis blocked by the hi limit screw.
 
Originally posted by encephalitis
I am currently riding a 105 triple 52/42/30 with a 12-25 cassette. I have been reading about the FSA compact cranks in 50/34, given how I ride I think this would be just about perfect, I like long hilly rides, but dont race.

I was hoping someone would know if I would need to change either my 105 triple front or rear mech if I was to convert to the compact cranks? I have looked at the shimano tech but am unsure what the various limitations actually mean.

Thanks in advance

I just recently changed from a triple Ultegra to the FSA 50/34. I've got a 12/27 in the back and have not any problems outside of adjusting the triple fd. The only advice I would have would be to do a couple of test rides to get used to the drop from the 50 to the 34. I'm still trying to get used to matching my cadence to the proper gear when dropping down to the 34. Outside of that - no problems and they look cool too!
 
I've triple to double conversions & running the long cage rear D looks a bit odd. Mechanically no different, but does look strange.

50-34 is about the same gap as 53-39. You do have to be careful with the down change with Shimano cos its an all or nothing event with no finesse. I'm a master at picking the chain up again while still moving...
 
Originally posted by xc_gumby


50-34 is about the same gap as 53-39. You do have to be careful with the down change with Shimano cos its an all or nothing event with no finesse. I'm a master at picking the chain up again while still moving...
Check derailer adjustment how to at www.parktool.com
 
Follow-up question out of curiosity. Do the Shimano triple shift levers have the same trim adjustments as the doubles? If that's not the case, then at some point encephalitis might want to "upgrade" the levers to a double to get the trims. Maybe that's a good excuse to go from 105 to Ultegra or DuraAce?

I switched to a FSA compact from an Ultegra double (with a 12-27 cassette), and the trim positions are pretty handy. With them, I can hit all nine cogs while on the 50 chainring without any chain rub. Obviously, it's not a good idea to run big/big for an extended period of time, but it comes in handy when you need a brief downshift to get you over a hump. Dropping down to a 24 or 27 in the rear and trimming the front is smoother than down-shifting to the 34 in front and double up-shifting the rear.

Stephen
 
Originally posted by sathomasga
Follow-up question out of curiosity. Do the Shimano triple shift levers have the same trim adjustments as the doubles? If that's not the case, then at some point encephalitis might want to "upgrade" the levers to a double to get the trims. Maybe that's a good excuse to go from 105 to Ultegra or DuraAce?

There are no shimano 'triple levers' with the exception of DA which are either double or triple specific. All other shimano 9 speed levers with the exception of DA are identical, and shift either a double or a triple.