On Oct 22, 7:26 pm, Michael Press <
[email protected]> wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>,
> "[email protected]"
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Oct 21, 8:56 pm, Wayne Pein <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > [email protected] wrote:
> > > > Hi All,
>
> > > > Check out this cool commuter:
>
> > > >http://www.chargebikes.com/products/cbikes/index.html
>
> > > > Click on "Mixer" to the right.
>
> > > > I want one.
>
> > > Nice, but I don't see the point of a straight bar. A drop bar has a
> > > straight section, but is much more versatile with various possible hand
> > > positions.
>
> > A drop bar does have more hand positions, but when riding in traffic
> > (let's call the bike an urban commuter) you need to have your hands on
> > the hoods at least to have ready access to the brakes. So you don't
> > really get to use those extra hand positions and the one you do use
> > has arguably worse braking than a flat bar with mtb levers would.
>
> I am average size, probably less than average strength,
> use all drop bar hand positions in urban traffic, and
> get effective braking from the hoods with single pivot
> calipers. All these `problems' are solved by attending
> to them with one's native intelligence.
>
> 1) Identify a difficulty.
> 2) Formulate a candidate solution.
> 3) Practice the candidate solution in safe situations.
> 4) Go to 1).
>
> I successfully applied this method to
> * Effective braking, safe braking, learning the limits of brakes.
> * Getting stronger.
> * Riding a straight line.
> * Turning the bicycle.
> * Road safety.
> * Using drop bars effectively.
> * Posture and positions.
>
> --
> Michael Press
Your recipie seems a sound way to improve skills and eliminate
potential problems.
The fact that you get more than adequate braking from the hoods does
not mean however that flat bar and mtb style levers are not better,
just that your equipment is good enough for your needs.
I use dual pivot (Ultegra 6600) brakes, salmon Kool-stops, and have
very significantly higher than average hand strength (It was actually
measured once in conjunction with a wrist injury). I weigh a lot too,
so that figures in as well. There is a very big difference between wet
and dry braking, and while it (usually) remains adequate, my flat bar/
disc MTB is always better.
I'm not arguing that drop bars are a poor choice for urban riding,
just that the additional positions they afford are not as easily and
as often taken advantage of as they are on the open road, thus
narrowing their "utility-gap" with flat bars in an urban setting.
If I knew I was going to need to do some maximal braking on my road
bike to avoid a collision or something, I'd want to make sure I was in
the drops for maximum grip on the levers, zero chance of slipping off
the bars, and a solid grip for maneuvering. Were I on the hoods, I of
course would not have time to switch, and the braking force would not
be as good, and I would have the (perhaps low, but real) risk of my
hands slipping off the hoods. Flat bar does not have that problem.
Your hands are not in danger of slipping off, and the brake levers are
available for maximum braking at all times.
Most of this is moot in my case anyway, because I usually ride a track
bike with bullhorns and no brakes at all!
Joseph
