crank play

Discussion in 'rec.sport.unicycling' started by BungleBanks, Jul 10, 2004.

  1. BungleBanks

    BungleBanks Guest

    i have noticed that there is a small amount of play on my cranks no
    matter how tight i do them up! its almost like the hub is too small
    (although its not) any idead how i can stop this or shal i get it
    re-built?

    any ideas would help. bungle


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  2. cyberbellum

    cyberbellum Guest

    BungleBanks wrote:
    > *
    > any ideas would help. bungle *


    What kind of cranks do you have? Is your hub splined or tapered? What
    kind of play is it?


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  3. BungleBanks

    BungleBanks Guest

    they move backwards and forwards while im riding, not side to side. the
    cranks have square holes in them tomatch the hub.


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  4. One on one

    One on one Guest

    Is the looseness at the bearings or is it at the cranks, or least likely
    is there play in your pedal. If the bearings are loose or worn, it
    won't matter how tight you tighten up the cranks.


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  5. BungleBanks

    BungleBanks Guest

    its definatly at the hub and not the bearings the bearings are fine.


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  6. cyberbellum

    cyberbellum Guest

    Your cranks are deformed. The hole should be EXACTLY square, but because
    they were ridden on while a little lose the metal near the corners has
    been pushed out a bit so the tapered surfaces now bulge slightly in the
    center. These surfaces should make full contact with the tapers, but
    since they are bulging only a small patch near the center touches. When
    you pull back and forth on the cranks tthe bulge rocks back and forth on
    the spindle flats and you perceive play at the pedals.

    The only way to reduce the play is to straighten the "rockers," i.e.
    the formerly flat surfaces inside the crank hole, but just setting up
    the machinery to do this properly is going to be really expensive. (And
    that's if you have access to a high-quality machine shop.) Unless you
    plan on doing a production run of hundreds of cranks it just isn't worth
    it.

    The only practical fix is to buy new cranks - with factory flat surfaces
    - and get them professionally installed. Any good LBS can do this for
    you. Ask if you can watch while they install them. It's possible that
    they won't use a torque wrench to put your cranks on, but that's only
    because they've done so many their hands are calibrated. You should use
    a torque wrench.


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  7. Ken Cline

    Ken Cline Guest

    "cyberbellum" <[email protected]> writes:

    > The only practical fix is to buy new cranks - with factory flat surfaces
    > - and get them professionally installed.


    I've fixed slightly damaged crank tapers by carefully filing them with
    a square file (part of a $6 set from Harbor Freight). Obviously, it
    is easy to ruin cranks this way, but if you are careful it is possible
    to repair them in some cases.

    These were $12 Torker cranks which are soft, easy to file, and no
    great loss if I messed up.

    Ken
     
  8. Ken Cline

    Ken Cline Guest

    "cyberbellum" <[email protected]> writes:

    > The only practical fix is to buy new cranks - with factory flat surfaces
    > - and get them professionally installed.


    I've fixed slightly damaged crank tapers by carefully filing them with
    a square file (part of a $6 set from Harbor Freight). Obviously, it
    is easy to ruin cranks this way, but if you are careful it is possible
    to repair them in some cases.

    These were $12 Torker cranks which are soft, easy to file, and no
    great loss if I messed up.

    Ken
     
  9. cyberbellum

    cyberbellum Guest

    Ken Cline wrote:
    > *...and no great loss if I messed up.
    > *


    Good point. If they're ruined anyway, what have you got to lose?

    I've been wondering if carefully filing down the middle third of the
    flat would be enough. That way all the pressure is taken up near the
    corners where it belongs.

    The way I would do this is to:

    a) get the crank hole really clean with a solvent of some sort. Clamp
    the crank gently in a vice so it doesn't move around when you do the
    following steps. Wrap it once or twice with a shop cloth first so it
    doesn't get scratched.
    b) Use an indelible marker to coat the inside of the crank hole with a
    thin coat of dye.
    c) Carefully measure and mark the middle third of the flats at each end
    of the hole. Using a straightedge, connect the 1/3 marks at each edge of
    the flat with a small, sharp knife or pin. Lightly cut through the dye
    to scribe two boundary lines on each flat.
    d) Carefully (checking often by eye and by feel) file down the center
    section with a rounded file until all the dye ibetween the lines is gone
    and you can feel (barely) a slight depression in the center. The dye
    outside the lines should not even be scratched.
    e) Clean the dye off with a solvent. Wipe out any particles.
    f) sand lightly with a very fine grit paper (600 or better) to remove
    any obvious burrs. One or two passes should be enough.
    g) Clean again with solvent. Buff with a soft cloth.
    h) Mount the crank as usual. Blue loktite if you like.


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    cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

    I was standing in the park wondering why frisbees get bigger as they get
    closer. Then it hit me.
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  10. cyberbellum

    cyberbellum Guest

    Ken Cline wrote:
    > *...and no great loss if I messed up.
    > *


    Good point. If they're ruined anyway, what have you got to lose?

    I've been wondering if carefully filing down the middle third of the
    flat would be enough. That way all the pressure is taken up near the
    corners where it belongs.

    The way I would do this is to:

    a) get the crank hole really clean with a solvent of some sort. Clamp
    the crank gently in a vice so it doesn't move around when you do the
    following steps. Wrap it once or twice with a shop cloth first so it
    doesn't get scratched.
    b) Use an indelible marker to coat the inside of the crank hole with a
    thin coat of dye.
    c) Carefully measure and mark the middle third of the flats at each end
    of the hole. Using a straightedge, connect the 1/3 marks at each edge of
    the flat with a small, sharp knife or pin. Lightly cut through the dye
    to scribe two boundary lines on each flat.
    d) Carefully (checking often by eye and by feel) file down the center
    section with a rounded file until all the dye ibetween the lines is gone
    and you can feel (barely) a slight depression in the center. The dye
    outside the lines should not even be scratched.
    e) Clean the dye off with a solvent. Wipe out any particles.
    f) sand lightly with a very fine grit paper (600 or better) to remove
    any obvious burrs. One or two passes should be enough.
    g) Clean again with solvent. Buff with a soft cloth.
    h) Mount the crank as usual. Blue loktite if you like.


    --
    cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

    I was standing in the park wondering why frisbees get bigger as they get
    closer. Then it hit me.
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