Crankset advice
- Thread starter amazinmets73
- Start date
Is this purely a cosmetic change (nothing wrong with THAT if that is the reason) ... OR is there something wrong with the current crankset OR its BB?
- If the problem is simply with the BB, then you can replace the FSA BB with a Shimano Hollowtech II BB or you could simply replace the cartridge bearings in the FSA BB cups.
it's cosmetic. The BB does creak when pedaling, but I think that may be the frame. Also, I often drop small to big chainring shifts. Why don't you think I'll gain an advantage with a sram crankset?alfeng said:
Well, I certainly hope that it is NOT your frame which is creaking ...
Regardless, I do not believe that changing the crankset will resolve the problem you are experiencing with throwing the chain ...
THAT is a front derailleur adjustment ...
which may-or-may-not be exacerbated by using the using the WRONG chain
The first thing which I think you may want to try is to raise your front derailleur so that the visible gap between the bottom edge of the front plate & the teeth of the outer ring is slightly greater than the current setting ...
- About 2mm is a good distance ... 2mm is the width of your spokes if straight 14g OR the nipple end of a double-butted 14-15-14 spoke.
If that doesn't fix the shifting problem, then presuming that the particular SRAM chain is compatible with your SRAM front derailleur, I recommend that you may need to consider ponying up for one of the YAW-motion SRAM front derailleurs ...
BTW. It probably wouldn't hurt to remove your current crankset & BB & re-grease the threads on the cups.
SRAM cranksets are fine but no significant improvement over FSA SL-K. You'll also need a GXP bottom bracket. Your problem is front derailleur adjustment.
While I won't argue with alfeng's 2mm clearance, I generally set them a little lower. The important thing is that that there should be no overshifting onto the big ring. First, the derailleur should hit the end of the shift cable at the same time it hits the limit screw. If the limit screw allows the cage to move past the shifter stop, tighten the limit screw until it gently hits cage in the big-ring position. Then do a couple of slow motion shifts to the big ring. Watch the chain carefully, You want it to slide directly onto the teeth. If it momentarily rides past the teeth before slipping in, cable tension is too high. Let the cable out a click, readjust the limit screw, and try again. When you think you have it, test from all positions on the cassette.
Generally, with this generation of 10-speed Shimano, any 10-speed Shimano road chain should work fine. SRAM and KMC aren't bad, either, but I think Shimano shifts crisper and is more durable than SRAM.
Regarding the creaking, check the bottom bracket, headset, and the tension on the wheel skewers.
Guys, I don't work on my own bikes. I'll have to tell your advice to my mechanic. BTW, is that FR Yaw?
BTW, I have the same FD issues on my other bike, which is Dura Ace 7800 with the same FSA crankset
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .Guys, I don't work on my own bikes. I'll have to tell your advice to my mechanic. BTW, is that FR Yaw?
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .BTW, I have the same FD issues on my other bike, which is Dura Ace 7800 with the same FSA crankset
UMmm ... I think YOU may need to get another Wrench and/or another LBS because s/he is two-for-two with regard to front derailleur adjustment with (apparently) two different types of shifters!!! OR, you should use your unsatisfactory (IMO) experiences as a CLUE that you may be better off if YOU learn how to do the work on your bike, yourself!!! BTW. Supposing that the front derailleur in the box corresponds to the label on the box then I would guess that there might be a high percentage that it is a "yaw" front derailleur ... BUT, I thought the RED front derailleurs had "SRAM" stenciled on the outer plate ... Nonetheless, it could certainly be a FORCE "yaw" front derailleur. oldbobcat can validate-or-refute THAT observation.
Quote:Originally Posted by amazinmets73 .BTW, I have the same FD issues on my other bike, which is Dura Ace 7800 with the same FSA crankset
UMmm ... I think YOU may need to get another Wrench and/or another LBS because s/he is two-for-two with regard to front derailleur adjustment with (apparently) two different types of shifters!!! OR, you should use your unsatisfactory (IMO) experiences as a CLUE that you may be better off if YOU learn how to do the work on your bike, yourself!!! BTW. Supposing that the front derailleur in the box corresponds to the label on the box then I would guess that there might be a high percentage that it is a "yaw" front derailleur ... BUT, I thought the RED front derailleurs had "SRAM" stenciled on the outer plate ... Nonetheless, it could certainly be a FORCE "yaw" front derailleur. oldbobcat can validate-or-refute THAT observation.
UMmm ...
I think YOU may need to get another Wrench and/or another LBS because s/he is two-for-two with regard to front derailleur adjustment with (apparently) two different types of shifters!!!
OR, you should use your unsatisfactory (IMO) experiences as a CLUE that you may be better off if YOU learn how to do the work on your bike, yourself!!!
This. Your local mechanic obviously sucks. Installing that style crank set is only slightly more difficult than removing a front wheel. As for the FD, just look up a youtube video and go for it. It's not very hard once you try it.
Well, whaddaya know, that is a Force front derailleur. No, it doesn't have yaw. If your shifters are Force or lower, there is one trim position for the big ring. If everything is set up right, you should be able to find trim from the big ring by pulling the lever lightly. In trim, the chain should drag lightly on the outer plate of the derailleur when in the outermost (highest gear combination) position.
I stand by the instructions I've already given. Actually, tuning SRAM is a little trickier, especially with hidden shift cables, because you can't pull past the high position with the lever, because dual-tap simply drops the chain to the smaller ring. But you can test this by bowstringing, pulling on the cable along the downtube.
Find a new mechanic, man. I'm sure alf or I could get both of those bikes shifting right, and alf doesn't even like anything that doesn't have Campagnolo levers. (That was a compliment, alf.) Or get familiar with this,
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments. It's not difficult. All you need is a Philips screwdriver, a 5mm Allen wrench, something to lift your bike so the rear wheel is off the floor, and a good pair of eyes and ears. Is there a bike repair co-op in your neck of the woods?
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