Creaking Noise (grrrr!)

[CJ Smith]

Hi Ripperton,

Just up out of the "hole" for some lunch... I will be honest here, I haven't even begun to look at the cranks on this bike. Mostly because they are so different than the old school stuff I am used to. Bottom line is I know I don't have the proper tools to extract or fine tune this baby.

I did find this information on the velo news website:

http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/10581.0.html

"...The two-piece crank depends on the GXP style external bottom bracket, and the non-drive arm is affixed using a single 8mm bolt. The fixing bolt also includes a self-extraction system for ease of use. The bottom bracket and entire crank system is very easy to install. Its adjustment is also simple. Preloading the bearings depends on a fixed stop, not bolt torque. ..."

I am lost by that... ehem... for now. I will be on it like white on rice later though!

Thanks for the feedback!

Did I miss the part where you checked the crank bolts and torqued them up. Do you have a Ti crank axle with bolts going into them or studs coming out of them with nuts. I had a Ti crank axle in my Giant and the bolts were constantly coming loose...and ticking and creaking and driving me crazy too.

 

[RIPPERTON]

The plot thickens. A 2 piece crank where the drive side is fixed to the axle.How is the crank "fixed" to the axle. Assuming its 2 pices to start with. What materials are we dealing with ? The axle must be some sort of metal but the crank looks like carbon fibre. Im starting to think its a defective connection between the drive crank arm and the axle. Get a new crank arm and try it.

 

[9202]

The plot thickens. A 2 piece crank where the drive side is fixed to the axle.How is the crank "fixed" to the axle. Assuming its 2 pices to start with. What materials are we dealing with ? The axle must be some sort of metal but the crank looks like carbon fibre. Im starting to think its a defective connection between the drive crank arm and the axle. Get a new crank arm and try it.

When I had a similar ticking noise on my bike, it drove me nuts for 2 weeks. Thought it was the BB, then the seat post, then seat rails, then.......

Finally, on a whim, I tightened the two screws holding the handlebars to the stem......ticking went away. Seems that with each pedal stroke I was pushing against the bars/stem causing the ticking noise.

Another time, it was in fact the seat post. Some lube took care of that.

Good luck,noises are a real thorn.

 

[CJ Smith]

Hey John M,

Any thoughts on placing a small piece of electrical tape between my front derailleur and my frame, mounted like a gasket?

I can't remember why, but I did that on my Bianchi Milano back in the mid to late 90's ... Perhaps it was so that waterbottle cage didn't mar the finish. You see, you can hate Italian food, but ya just gotta love a "celeste green" finish... (LOL!)

~CJ~

Couple of suggestions.

Check front quick release skewer (I recently had this--fixed problem with putting an additional quarter turn on the nut prior to closing release, and front derailleur mount (could be creaking against the frame--try retorquing).

It could be the pedal--maybe swap out a different right pedal.

Could be the BB cups in the frame--maybe it has loosened a little over the past 1510 miles and needs to be tightened up.

 

[CJ Smith]

Well, I believe that I did post a review of what happened when I took my hands off the handlebars - NOT something I recommend to anyone to do (unless you are a circus clown... this way if you crash you can say you meant to do that, get lots of laughs and still get paid). Once my hand were off the bars I rode for quite a ways at a variety of speeds and the ticking continued we with each turn of the crank.

I just now finished working lube around the outside of the crank arm bolts and cleaning the threads before giving it a very light coat of Phil Wood's Tenacious Oil (then I wiped it nearly dry) before reinstalling it... Now I am off for my Sunday ride. More as the saga unfolds... (Insert the nearly depressing "Day of Our Lives" theme music here)

Thanks for the wisdom... Ride safe...
~CJ~

When I had a similar ticking noise on my bike, it drove me nuts for 2 weeks. Thought it was the BB, then the seat post, then seat rails, then.......

Finally, on a whim, I tightened the two screws holding the handlebars to the stem......ticking went away. Seems that with each pedal stroke I was pushing against the bars/stem causing the ticking noise.

Another time, it was in fact the seat post. Some lube took care of that.

Good luck,noises are a real thorn.

 

[CJ Smith]

Well I probably won't just get a new crank arm for several reasons.

1. I am not a pro mechanic... and neither you nor I have actuallly taken the crank apart for an inspection (I have posted previously about not having the proper tools to do it)... I would rather have someone that could take it apart inspect it and recommend a new crank arm, but I owuld probably want a second bike wrench's guru-ized opinion.

2. This is Guam. Beisdes EBAY new carbon 172.5 SRAM Force Crank arms are not something found in a hat instead of a rabbit amidst a magical act. I can't prove this, but I am probably one of, if not the only person on Guam with these crank arms.

3. There are too many other things to check first. A good friend told me something today you instinctively learn as you find yourself tackling a majority of your own mechanical isues: "Check the cheapest things first". This is a very true statement to which I replied, "...and if money is no object, then check the easiest, because cheap and easy don't go hand-in-hand... (well not since High School dating ~ circa 1984)."

Thanks for the reply
~CJ~

The plot thickens. A 2 piece crank where the drive side is fixed to the axle.How is the crank "fixed" to the axle. Assuming its 2 pices to start with. What materials are we dealing with ? The axle must be some sort of metal but the crank looks like carbon fibre. Im starting to think its a defective connection between the drive crank arm and the axle. Get a new crank arm and try it.

 

[geoinmillbrook]

Well I probably won't just get a new crank arm for several reasons.

1. I am not a pro mechanic... and neither you nor I have actuallly taken the crank apart for an inspection (I have posted previously about not having the proper tools to do it)... I would rather have someone that could take it apart inspect it and recommend a new crank arm, but I owuld probably want a second bike wrench's guru-ized opinion.

2. This is Guam. Beisdes EBAY new carbon 172.5 SRAM Force Crank arms are not something found in a hat instead of a rabbit amidst a magical act. I can't prove this, but I am probably one of, if not the only person on Guam with these crank arms.

3. There are too many other things to check first. A good friend told me something today you instinctively learn as you find yourself tackling a majority of your own mechanical isues: "Check the cheapest things first". This is a very true statement to which I replied, "...and if money is no object, then check the easiest, because cheap and easy don't go hand-in-hand... (well not since High School dating ~ circa 1984)."

Thanks for the reply
~CJ~

Sorry to resurrect this - do so for 2 reasons: one that is altruistic, one that is selfish

1.) My incessant creaking/ticking with so similar symptoms was that the Truvativ GXP cups I use were tightened too much. I instinctively tightened all the chain ring bolts on my triple Rouleur and the BB cups when the ticking started - it definately was coming from pressure being applied on the drive side of the pedal/crankset. Freespinning, it did not occur. It drove me crazy until I realized that it got worse after tightening the BB cups after 2 sesions of futzing. So, I did what Truvativ suggests , reinstalled the BB using one of those really nice Park BBT-19 wrenches and a torque wrench. The proper torque was absolutely key. 15-19N/M was perfect. No more ticking. Not sure if this is true with all BB set ups but I thought I'd share it anyhow.

2.) Has anyone else had issues, (if any of you use a Truvativ GXP (Giga X Pipe) integrated external bearing BB cranksets))- with the bearing seals popping off on the drive side ? I have 6 bikes with these BB's and two of them have the outboard plastic bearing seals popped off. One on my Ridley cross bike that looks like I installed it that way (the seals (round plastic washer-like things) are just gone - not on the axle, floor, stuck to the BB, it's no where to be found and all kinds of **** got into the bearing ass'y- must have been missing when I took the thing out of the box -think I bought it used on EBAY and never even noticed ! ) ; and one on my Cannondal CAAD 4.. weird !! I asked my LBS and they said "never heard of such a thing - and that'll teach you for buying stuff on EBay"... ! By the way neither bike was the one with the creaky/ticking noise.

Thanks !

George

 

[swwind207]

I have the same problem, although my clicking, or popping sound is more random than 3 and 5 o' clock. I get the sound the most when I have a cadence of around 90 to 100, doing about 20 to 26 mph. I really do not get much of a sound climbing. My bike is an 07 Orbea, I bought new in Sept of 08. The sound started in early 2010. Here is what I have done so far to isolate the sound.

1. Oil the back Mavic wheel.
2. Replace the wheel.
3. Replace the pedals and shoes
4. Replace the bottom bracket

I still have the problem and at the conclusion of my last ride I did a static test. I put the front wheel against a wall, held the brake, leaned over my bike and pushed on the right crank hard. It moved a fraction and gave the usual popping sound. I could not get it to repeat every time I tried it, but I did make it happen a couple of more times. My theory is that the connection between the right crank and axle (or spindle) is loose. I read somewhere else online that this is a warranty issue and it has happened to someone else. I have ordered new cranks, but will be contacting Sram soon if the new cranks fixes the problem. I will add a post once if the sound goes away.

 

[dhk2]

sw, I'm assuming that the spindle splines and crankarms aren't damaged and fit properly. Also, that you greased the splines and crankbolts well and torqued them up to spec, If so, suggest you go back to read my response written in 07.

Since you get just one click when pushing on the drive-side crankarm, sounds to me like your click could be due to frame flex, not the BB or crankarms. If you push on the non-drive side pedal to unload the frame, then going back to the drive-side, does it click every time? When you're doing your static test, check to see if you can isolate the noise by feel. If your bike has two-piece rear dropouts, corrrosion on the connecting screw could be the culprit. That tiny bit of corrosion under the paint on my custom frame drove me nuts for almost a year.

Other frame-flex related causes could be the seat post, or even the water bottle cages. Any place where a steel screw contacts aluminum is a prime spot for dissimilar-metal corrosion. It can produce a thin-layer of white aluminum oxide which actually is strong enough to loosen the joint. Pedals are a common place where this can occur over time.

 

[Peter@vecchios]

Originally Posted by CJ Smith .

WHAT I BOUGHT:
2005 Kestrel Evoke frame, SRAM Force Cranks & Chainrings, Look KEO Carbon Ti Pedals, Oval Concepts 32.4 Seatpost, Kestrel carbon EMS Pro handlebar (it's the gray, not yellow one).

Frame mileage estimated: 1510 mine; 800 from previous owner.
Pedals, Crank Arms & Bottom Bracket mileage: 1510 (All me)
Handlebar & Seatpost mileage: Unknown

/img/vbsmilies/smilies/mad.gif THE ISSUE AT HAND /img/vbsmilies/smilies/confused.gif :
When I ride and my drive-side foot reaches the area between 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock, I am driven to insanity with a single, clear, distinctive "TICKING" sound (sounds like someone flicking their fingernail on the center of a carbon fork). This tell tale heart is trying to break me... So I have come to the techie gurus of the world here in our forum for suggestions.

THOUGHT ABOUT:
A pin on my chain coming partially out and it was clipping one of the derailleurs while passing through it. NOT IT... BECAUSE: the 3-5 o'clock thing stays consistant regardless of the gear I am in. If it was a chain pin, then shifting from 39-11 to 53-23 would probably change where the ticking occurs (as far as the 3 to 5 o'clock thing is concerned).

THOUGHT ABOUT:
Chainring bolts being loose. Checked this. They are tight - BUT could too tight be an issue?

THOUGHT ABOUT:
"Seatpost creaking" - A simple, out of the saddle, non-excessive rocking of the frame while riding would drop that from the list. Tried it and it still TICKS!

THOUGHT ABOUT:
"Handlebar creaking": Rode without hands for a couple of rotations... Umm Still continued to TICK!

THOUGHT ABOUT:
I still have the original bearings in the bottom bracket. No maintenance at all done to BB.

PROCESS OF ILLIMINATION / TROUBLE SHOOTING:

1. Unclipped drive-side foot: No noise

2. Unclipped non-drive side foot: Less noise.

3. Rocked the frame hard in a sprint acceleration: I hear it clearer.

3. Pedaled lightly-soft pedaling through a curve in the road: Noise lessens

4. Intervals while out of the saddle in 11-23: Still TICKING!

5. Changed angle of foot in pedal (Heal in, then heal out): TICKING!

6. A friend said to check the breakaway rear derailleur hanger (it's tight).

7. Checked for cracks/unglueing where chainstays meet the bottom bracket.

8. Tightened Chainring bolts.

9. Checked Chain pins and derailleurs for signs of rubbing.

10. Checked for a stiff chain link.

11 Checked Crank arms for fractures.

12. Checked that pedals were secure & threaded into crank arm properly.

Now with that all said, /img/vbsmilies/smilies/confused.gif /img/vbsmilies/smilies/confused.gif /img/vbsmilies/smilies/confused.gif toss me some input...

Thanks for reading my post! /img/vbsmilies/smilies/smile.gif

CJ

Currently in Guam aboard the SS Petersburg

Take the BB out, clean and grease inside of BB shell, inside of cups, around crank spindle. Install TIGHT. Once you get the crank arms off it could be the BB bearings are just toasted. Sram Bb bearings aren't the longest lasting out there by a long shot.

Swap pedals is next to see if it's a pedal.

 

[paulmurphy]

Loud, distinct click at 3 o'clock?
Same thing drove me crazy for a long time, nobody could help.
But i can help you.
Remove pedal, clean and lightly grease threads, reinstall.
Ride in peace.

 

[oldbobcat]

Originally Posted by Peter@vecchios .

Take the BB out, clean and grease inside of BB shell, inside of cups, around crank spindle. Install TIGHT. Once you get the crank arms off it could be the BB bearings are just toasted. Sram Bb bearings aren't the longest lasting out there by a long shot.

Swap pedals is next to see if it's a pedal.

That's what worked for me on two occasions, but I try the pedals first because of the easy factor. First, the FSA bottom bracket bearings were toasted at 5000 miles. Then it was manky bearings in a set of Time RXS pedals.

 

[frankiemuniz01]

[COLOR= rgb(255, 0, 0)]THOUGHT ABOUT:[/COLOR]
Chainring bolts being loose. Checked this. They are tight - BUT could too tight be an issue?

 

[swwind207]

Replacing the crank has successfully eliminated the creaking noises that I was having. My LBS is seeing about the warranty. I first noticed the sound after 18 months, but it has now been over 2 years. I am hoping they will pay for the replacement.

Swwind207