Crit sprinters, which wheels do you like?



Meek One

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May 5, 2004
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Crit Sprinters, which wheels do you like? Especially interested in what the 'bigger' sprinters ride. Thanks.
 
I love my Rolf Vigors (uh cuz I got them for free). I tip the scales at 170 - 175 lbs. The wheels spin up fast and are fairly stiff for the sprint.
 
Convential thinking will say stiffness is the most important trait for a crit wheelset, and I agree that you want something that will corner well and transfer power well in a sprint. However, I would say that a wheel that spins well is the best choice. Crits are fast 24+ mph, and even though you are protected by the peleton most of the time, you still don't want to expend too much energy staying latched on during accerations or getting to the front. I have been racing on Campy Eurus' for the last couple years, and just had a set of Velocity Aeroheads built on Record hubs (by Mr. Ornee) that will be my crit wheel in 2008.
 
Would a set of DT Swiss 240 hubs with a high spoke count laced to Mavic Open Pro rims be a decent choice. They should be light to spin up and relatively stiff, but not really aero...

Or

The same hubs laced to Velocity Deep V's, slower to spin but better aerodynamics than the Open Pros

Thoughts?

Thanks again for your input.
 
Depends on what sort of crit you're doing. If you have slow turns (sub 20 mph) then light wheels will help. If the course/field is fast and doesn't really bunch up then a fast/aero set of wheels are good. If you're concerned about just the finish, the same applies - a finish with a short stretch after a very tight turn will favor a light wheel. One that has a 500 meter straight coming off of a downhill will favor an aero wheel.

I use DV46Ts as a default (not too aero but very light), a TriSpoke front or set if I think things will be steady and fast or if I'm working for someone else.

I'd think that many Cat 1-3 races will favor aero over light weight because your average speed might be 27-28 mph or higher. Cat 4-5 races may favor light weight due to slower speeds, less capable cornering.

cdr
 
Meek One said:
Would a set of DT Swiss 240 hubs with a high spoke count laced to Mavic Open Pro rims be a decent choice. They should be light to spin up and relatively stiff, but not really aero.
not stiff enough, in my opinion, unless you're very light. In fact, I've just rebuilt a front Open Pro with non-butted DTs, hoping that will stiffen it up a bit

Better off with some CXP33s, or any other 24mm to 30mm rim
 
The scientists have proven that heavy, flexible wheels are just as good, if not better than light, stiff wheels.

And besides, no one can notice the difference anyway.
 
CAMPYBOB said:
The scientists have proven that heavy, flexible wheels are just as good, if not better than light, stiff wheels.

And besides, no one can notice the difference anyway.
Amen. :rolleyes:
 
we should detension and add weight to our wheels then?

it would make us stronger perhaps esp at the while outta the four corners at the front then.


CAMPYBOB said:
The scientists have proven that heavy, flexible wheels are just as good, if not better than light, stiff wheels.

And besides, no one can notice the difference anyway.
 
lyotard said:
we should detension and add weight to our wheels then?

it would make us stronger perhaps esp at the while outta the four corners at the front then.
Wind vanes on each spoke, too. Campybob's uncited "scientists" have probably proven the advantage of these as well.
 
carpediemracing said:
I use DV46Ts as a default (not too aero but very light), a TriSpoke front or set if I think things will be steady and fast or if I'm working for someone else.


You can't run a tri spoke wheel in a crit or road race under uci rules. Minimum spoke count I think of 12.
 
artemidorus said:
Wind vanes on each spoke, too. .
I took these 'resistance vanes' off my exercise bike and put them on my training bike

exe-bike.JPG
 
CAMPYBOB said:
The scientists have proven that heavy, flexible wheels are just as good, if not better than light, stiff wheels.

And besides, no one can notice the difference anyway.
but seriously.......the problem is that it's usually the light wheels which can be too flexy, not the old, heavy wheels.

Some guys build 'light' wheels that they think will "spin up fast" (what a joke that is, anyway), but make them out of 28-hole DTRR1.1s and DT Revolutions!
YUCK! Ever used 'super-butted' spokes like Revolutions? Floppy jaloppies :)
 
we should detension and add weight to our wheels then?

Yes. Loosen all spokes. This makes the ride so smooth that you will automatically be .0875464723 MPH faster just from being fresher. Scientists have proven this with lots of calculations and stuff.

Add lead strips to the rim. This increases the flywheel effect, again making you much faster. You even climb better too. It's scientifically proven. There's lots of numbers to prove it.

Also, deep section aero rims ride just like light, box section tubular rims. Not even scientists can tell the difference.

Those fan blades will absolutely make you faster. Scientists have proven these blades break up the boundary layer of air better than trip strips and improve cooling in the region of the rider's helmet. The net gain in wattage for most grandmothers is 12.8506025 watts (based on 56 kg grandmothers in a double-blind study).

Seriously, 32 spoke, 3x box tubulars, lots of glue and a good pair of CX/CG tires will get a guy around most crit courses and be easily replaceable after that inevitable stack-up.
 
Campagnolo Bora! Or even Corima Aero, or Zipp 404! They're also light, so if there are hills in the circuit... you'll be ok!
 

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