CS 600 Polar Power Meter Problems

Discussion in 'Power Training' started by algtmed, Nov 7, 2007.

  1. algtmed

    algtmed New Member

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    Hello my friends !
    :( :(
    I'd like to know if there is a real thing to do with this PM to work fine with no dropouts. I saw in the forum some alternatives, but they are not consistent. The problems is still the connections on the battery ? Does any one can help me with this topic ? Solding the connections take the function better ?

    Thanks for all !!:)

    Algtmed
     
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  2. chris@polar

    [email protected] New Member

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    Hi Algtmed,

    Do you have a WIND power sensor or are you looking to purchase one?
     
  3. algtmed

    algtmed New Member

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    Hello Chris,

    I have all the kit with the wind power sensor.

    Thanks !
     
  4. ozzy7750

    ozzy7750 New Member

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    I have the same problem, but with the S-Series Power Meter. I had decided that it was just ridiculously fast battery usage, but today it started cutting out with a virtually brand new batter in it.

    What is this you are saying about soldering up the battery terminals?
     
  5. algtmed

    algtmed New Member

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    Someone said in another topic, that after soldering the the connection with the spring coiled wire to the flat metal at the end of the battery holder. For him it worked well and he didn't have no dropouts anymore. I will try too this week and I really hope it woeks for me too.:confused:

    Good ride for you !!
     
  6. parawolf

    parawolf New Member

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    Take pictures when you do it, I'm interested to see the outcome and results.
     
  7. algtmed

    algtmed New Member

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    Dear Friends !!!:D :D :D


    No more dropouts since i sold the terminals. It really worked for me. I complete 100 km with no dropouts. I will repeat what my friend sad:

    "
    Remove the yellow battery holder and remove the batteries from it. At the bottom of the holder you will see a spring coiled wire that is the contact point for the negative power (-). This wire is connected to a wider metal strip that serves as the connection to the larger black outer holder. The joint between the thin wire and the broader metal strip is where I soldered a connection. I noticed that it was just a crimped or physical connection with no good electrical connection. Before soldering it seemed to move easily at the joint. The surfaces are smooth so it take a bit of effort to get a good solder joint, but it can be done.

    He is rigth about the dificult in solding this thin wire. You need a lot of patience. In my case, an eletronic technician wasn't able to do the work. Then i took to another guy and he putted a little drop inside the little hole of the wire and then inserted the wire. So, it is now working pretty well !:)

    I hope this work for you too !
     
  8. veloventoux

    veloventoux New Member

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    I reactivate this thread cause I'm having the same kind of trouble with power data dropouts.
    Would you have the possibility to take a picture of the part solded?
    I think it would help a lot. Thanks anyway.
     
  9. aadamcycle

    aadamcycle New Member

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    Soldering is not that hard and it seems to me like everyone in the cycling world is a buch of wussies. Or mabey im just to outgoing and jump right in and take care of things myself. Just open up the battery pack and check it out for yourself do the soldering job takes like 5 min. Oh and quit being such a pussy.:D
     
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