J
- Status
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Chris
Guest
Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease everything, then put it all back together.
Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. Then, turn the screw another
quartere turn, just to be safe. Or, go to your LBS. They know what they're doing.
Chris
"JB" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Any simple suggestions to remedy this annoying sound would be appreciated. Thanks, JB
Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. Then, turn the screw another
quartere turn, just to be safe. Or, go to your LBS. They know what they're doing.
Chris
"JB" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Any simple suggestions to remedy this annoying sound would be appreciated. Thanks, JB
A
A Muzi
Guest
"JB" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Any simple suggestions to remedy this annoying sound would be appreciated.
As earlier discussed today, remove the arms, check the bearing, ensure the BB is tight in the frame.
Remount the cranks with well-greased bolts ( I wet tapers, some mechanics do not. No one's cranks
fall off or split. You decide.)
Grease the bolt side of the chainring bolts.
Remove pedals, evaluate the bearings, grease the spindles before reinstalling them.
All that will not kill a half-hour and you'll remove the noise while gaining confidence that
all is well.
--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
> Any simple suggestions to remedy this annoying sound would be appreciated.
As earlier discussed today, remove the arms, check the bearing, ensure the BB is tight in the frame.
Remount the cranks with well-greased bolts ( I wet tapers, some mechanics do not. No one's cranks
fall off or split. You decide.)
Grease the bolt side of the chainring bolts.
Remove pedals, evaluate the bearings, grease the spindles before reinstalling them.
All that will not kill a half-hour and you'll remove the noise while gaining confidence that
all is well.
--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
D
David L. Johnso
Guest
On Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:50:06 -0500, Chris wrote:
> Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease everything, then put it all back together.
> Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. Then, turn the screw another
> quartere turn, just to be safe.
And snap off the head of the bolt? That is a real possibility.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or _`\(,_ | that we are to
stand by the president right or wrong, is not (_)/ (_) | only unpatriotic and servile, but is
morally treasonable to the American public. --Theodore Roosevelt
> Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease everything, then put it all back together.
> Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. Then, turn the screw another
> quartere turn, just to be safe.
And snap off the head of the bolt? That is a real possibility.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or _`\(,_ | that we are to
stand by the president right or wrong, is not (_)/ (_) | only unpatriotic and servile, but is
morally treasonable to the American public. --Theodore Roosevelt
A
Ajames54
Guest
On Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:59:57 -0600, "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"JB" <[email protected]rthlink.net> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Any simple suggestions to remedy this annoying sound would be appreciated.
>
>
>As earlier discussed today, remove the arms, check the bearing, ensure the BB is tight in
>the frame.
>
>Remount the cranks with well-greased bolts ( I wet tapers, some mechanics do not. No one's cranks
>fall off or split. You decide.)
>
>Grease the bolt side of the chainring bolts.
>
>Remove pedals, evaluate the bearings, grease the spindles before reinstalling them.
>
>All that will not kill a half-hour and you'll remove the noise while gaining confidence that
>all is well.
Above is all true ...
Unless they are XT Holo_Drech Cranks like mine then nothing will work for long because it is
creaking where the chain rings are pressed onto the crank arms...
Still waiting for the re-call ....
>"JB" <[email protected]rthlink.net> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Any simple suggestions to remedy this annoying sound would be appreciated.
>
>
>As earlier discussed today, remove the arms, check the bearing, ensure the BB is tight in
>the frame.
>
>Remount the cranks with well-greased bolts ( I wet tapers, some mechanics do not. No one's cranks
>fall off or split. You decide.)
>
>Grease the bolt side of the chainring bolts.
>
>Remove pedals, evaluate the bearings, grease the spindles before reinstalling them.
>
>All that will not kill a half-hour and you'll remove the noise while gaining confidence that
>all is well.
Above is all true ...
Unless they are XT Holo_Drech Cranks like mine then nothing will work for long because it is
creaking where the chain rings are pressed onto the crank arms...
Still waiting for the re-call ....
Q
Qui Si Parla Ca
Guest
chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease everything, then put it all back
together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. << Then, turn the
screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install, the
crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. << Then, turn the
screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install, the
crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
D
David Kunz
Guest
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease everything, then put it all back
> together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. << Then, turn the
> screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
>
> This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
>
> It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install, the
> crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
I've never had a BB creak be the BB. Although I've removed, regreased and retorqued it many times
. ALWAYS use a torque wrench!
It's usually the seatpost (measure the height (I usually measure form the center of my crank bolt),
remove, clean the old grease and grit off post and out of the hole, lube it well, reinstall, wipe
the extra grease off).
Other times it's been loose chainring bolts; loose spider; dry rear pivot on my shock; and my pedal
releases needing lube (only my old 858's have ever had that problem they needed to be lubed almost
every ride to keep 'em quiet!).
David
> chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease everything, then put it all back
> together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some more. << Then, turn the
> screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
>
> This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
>
> It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install, the
> crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
I've never had a BB creak be the BB. Although I've removed, regreased and retorqued it many times
. ALWAYS use a torque wrench!It's usually the seatpost (measure the height (I usually measure form the center of my crank bolt),
remove, clean the old grease and grit off post and out of the hole, lube it well, reinstall, wipe
the extra grease off).
Other times it's been loose chainring bolts; loose spider; dry rear pivot on my shock; and my pedal
releases needing lube (only my old 858's have ever had that problem they needed to be lubed almost
every ride to keep 'em quiet!).
David
C
Chris
Guest
Yeah, I was exaggerating, but I wanted to make sure he understood...I don't want him jumping on the
allen wrench or anything. But, on the other hand, I've seen lots of cheesy cranks - the type this
guy is probably dealing with - that don't work any other way. Bontrager crank arms like to unscrew
themselves as they pedal, it seems. So JB, please understand the difference between the literal and
intended meanings, and don't go ruining your setup.
Chris
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease
everything,
> then put it all back together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some
> more. << Then, turn the screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
>
> This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
>
> It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install, the
> crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
>
>
>
>
> Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
allen wrench or anything. But, on the other hand, I've seen lots of cheesy cranks - the type this
guy is probably dealing with - that don't work any other way. Bontrager crank arms like to unscrew
themselves as they pedal, it seems. So JB, please understand the difference between the literal and
intended meanings, and don't go ruining your setup.
Chris
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease
everything,
> then put it all back together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight. Then tighten some
> more. << Then, turn the screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
>
> This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
>
> It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install, the
> crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
>
>
>
>
> Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
M
Michael Dart
Guest
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, I was exaggerating, but I wanted to make sure he understood...I
don't
> want him jumping on the allen wrench or anything. But, on the other hand, I've seen lots of cheesy
> cranks - the type this guy is probably dealing with - that don't work any other way. Bontrager
> crank arms like to
unscrew
> themselves as they pedal, it seems. So JB, please understand the difference between the literal
> and intended meanings, and don't go ruining your setup.
>
> Chris
>
All you need is a fairly cheap beam type torque wrench. $20-25 at Sears and torque the crank bolt to
the correct manufacturers value. When I started doing this I was amazed at how much effort was
required to get to this value compared to what I was doing with a 8mm key. (Which is what you are
inferring) I've had no loose cranks after doing this.
Mike
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, I was exaggerating, but I wanted to make sure he understood...I
don't
> want him jumping on the allen wrench or anything. But, on the other hand, I've seen lots of cheesy
> cranks - the type this guy is probably dealing with - that don't work any other way. Bontrager
> crank arms like to
unscrew
> themselves as they pedal, it seems. So JB, please understand the difference between the literal
> and intended meanings, and don't go ruining your setup.
>
> Chris
>
All you need is a fairly cheap beam type torque wrench. $20-25 at Sears and torque the crank bolt to
the correct manufacturers value. When I started doing this I was amazed at how much effort was
required to get to this value compared to what I was doing with a 8mm key. (Which is what you are
inferring) I've had no loose cranks after doing this.
Mike
B
Bill Lloyd
Guest
Then why do you say it this way? It's certainly possible to misinterpret what you said. A hamfist
mechanic will have a 90% chance of damaging cranks or the bolts if you go "very, very tight" and
then turn a quarter turn more.
There is a *right* torque for chainring bolts. It's usually around 25 ft-lbs if I recall. Any
tighter and you damage the cranks.
Also -- note BB creaking is almost never from the crank/bb interface. Most frequently it's from the
BB in the frame -- those threads. Load 'em up with anti-seize or use teflon tape in the threads and
it's likely the noise will go away.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, I was exaggerating, but I wanted to make sure he understood...I
don't
> want him jumping on the allen wrench or anything. But, on the other hand, I've seen lots of cheesy
> cranks - the type this guy is probably dealing with - that don't work any other way. Bontrager
> crank arms like to
unscrew
> themselves as they pedal, it seems. So JB, please understand the difference between the literal
> and intended meanings, and don't go ruining your setup.
>
> Chris
>
> "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease
> everything,
> > then put it all back together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight.
Then
> > tighten some more. << Then, turn the screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
> >
> > This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
> >
> > It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install,
> > the crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> > (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
mechanic will have a 90% chance of damaging cranks or the bolts if you go "very, very tight" and
then turn a quarter turn more.
There is a *right* torque for chainring bolts. It's usually around 25 ft-lbs if I recall. Any
tighter and you damage the cranks.
Also -- note BB creaking is almost never from the crank/bb interface. Most frequently it's from the
BB in the frame -- those threads. Load 'em up with anti-seize or use teflon tape in the threads and
it's likely the noise will go away.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, I was exaggerating, but I wanted to make sure he understood...I
don't
> want him jumping on the allen wrench or anything. But, on the other hand, I've seen lots of cheesy
> cranks - the type this guy is probably dealing with - that don't work any other way. Bontrager
> crank arms like to
unscrew
> themselves as they pedal, it seems. So JB, please understand the difference between the literal
> and intended meanings, and don't go ruining your setup.
>
> Chris
>
> "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > chris-<< Take the crankarms off the BB, clean everything, grease
> everything,
> > then put it all back together. Put the crankarms on the BB very, very tight.
Then
> > tighten some more. << Then, turn the screw another quartere turn, just to be safe.
> >
> > This is a good way to kill certain cranks.
> >
> > It's a diffucult problem that can lie in a variety of places- The BB, the BB prep and install,
> > the crank arms, the chainrings, the pedals/cleats.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> > (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
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