Custom decals

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Robert Strickla, Jun 27, 2003.

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  1. Hi everyone,

    I've designed some custom decals for a frame I'm having repainted but I'm not sure the best way to
    go about having them made. I don't mind spending a little bit of money to have them done
    professionally (as long as it isn't too much) but I'm not sure what I should even be asking for.
    What kind of processes and materials are available and what are the pro's and cons of each. I'll
    probably have them applied and then clear-coated although I have considered just applying them on
    top of the clear coat if that proves too complicated. Any recommendations?

    Rob Strickland
     
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  2. Phil Brown

    Phil Brown Guest

    > Any recommendations?

    Several. Many people use vinyl decals from a sign shop. I don't like them because of the raised
    edge. You can buy inkjet or laser decal paper from model suppliers (micro-mark.com or your local
    model railroad shop) for your printer. Drawbacks: no white ink and you should run a test to make
    sure the clearcoat is compatible. You can try to find someone with an ALPS decal printer. They print
    white but have been discontinued for some time. Best bet is the local model railroad club. Or simply
    have some printed. I use Screen Specialites Supplies in West Jefferson, NC as do most bike builders
    in the US. There are companies that print short runs for the model train people but I've found that
    our decals are a bit big for them. Find them in any model railroad magazine. Your art work should be
    in Adobe Illustrator format-that's what most graphics houses (except for the model people) use. Is
    that enough? Phil Brown
     
  3. Erik Brooks

    Erik Brooks Guest

    [email protected] (Phil Brown) wrote in message

    You can buy inkjet or laser decal paper from model
    > suppliers (micro-mark.com or your local model railroad shop) for your printer. Drawbacks: no white
    > ink and you should run a test to make sure the clearcoat is compatible.

    FWIW, I've experimented a bit with inkjet decal paper, and have some decals on my bike that I've
    made that way. Most of mine were just black text in large fonts in a document that I printed on a
    color inkjet printer. I put them on the bike and did not use clearcoat, as I knew I'd probably want
    to take them off after a while. After several months, the crisp edges of the text have 'leaked' into
    the surrounding clear film. Same deal with a color image.

    I also tried printing a word on a solid red background to match some other red on the bike. It
    looked great when it came out of the printer, but when I floated the decal off of it's backing, the
    red then looked like red Saran wrap - almost totally translucent instead of the solid red I was
    hoping for. No way would it cover the underlying decal as I'd hoped.

    Perhaps if I'd clearcoated the simple text it might not run. On the whole, I've been pretty
    disappointed with printing my decals myself. Phil's other suggestions are probably sound.

    Erik Brooks
     
  4. Here's an interesting web page that describes some decals produced by an amateur for a Carlton
    Bicycle Restoration :

    http://www.nonlintec.com/carlton/

    Some interesting things were learned during this process :

    - Decals must be waterproofed with Krylon spray; the spray dissolves certain black inks; if you have
    this problem, then just remove your black cartridge and change your black art areas to quasi-black
    (a dark mix of 3 colors that isn't exactly black). Do test-prints on white paper to make sure the
    black cartridge isn't being used.

    - To solve the "no white decals on clear film" printing problem, buy white decal paper and just use
    the inkjet to print a color very close to your frame color ON WHITE INKJET PAPER (not clear, as
    the previous email suggested).

    I think that you can probably pass the "12 inch test" with the following color-matching technique:

    1. Print 10-20 test color-circles, maybe 1" across with a 1/2" hole in each of them. Record color
    wheel values with each test color on the printout

    2. Punch out all the holes.

    3. Try each hole atop your frame in direct sunlight and decide which one or two are closest to
    the making the color "disappear" between your paper and your frame.

    4. If necessary, using recorded color wheel values, come up with a new set of nearby colors and
    repeat the process.

    - Don Gillies San Diego, CA
     
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