Cut Wippermann chain too short: My options are?

[Bestest Handsander]

In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As far as
I can tell my options are:

1. Get a new chain (expensive)
2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
original connex link)
3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect the
needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of time
before the plates come off the pin)
4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no idea
if this is safe or not)

I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I was
hoping someone here might know the answer.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[me]

"Bestest Handsander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As far
> as I can tell my options are:
>
> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
> original connex link)
> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect
> the needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of
> time before the plates come off the pin)
> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no idea
> if this is safe or not)
>
> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I was
> hoping someone here might know the answer.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>

I'd vote for an extra connex link. Shift it a bit away if you cut a longer
chunk of chain. Should work OK.

Jeffrey

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 18:01:34 -0700, Bestest Handsander wrote:

> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
> original connex link)

I'd go for this option. I've used two old-fashioned master links side-by
side on a fixed-gear chain with no trouble.

> 3. Driving the pin pushed out
to shorten the chain back in to reconnect
> the needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of
> time before the plates come off the pin)

So, you take an expensive (very) and make it as unreliable as a $5
cheapie?

> 4. Try a Shimano replacement
> pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no idea if this is safe or not)

Unless it is exactly the same design, I doubt that it would work well.
Wipperman would also have little sympathy if it breaks.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Deserves death! I daresay he does. Many that live deserve
_`\(,_ | death. And some that die deserve life. Can you give it to
(_)/ (_) | them? Then do not be too eager to deal out death in judgement.
-- J. R. R. Tolkein

 

[Phil, Squid-in-Training]

Bestest Handsander wrote:
> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As
> far as I can tell my options are:
>
> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close
> to the original connex link)
> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to
> reconnect the needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be
> a matter of time before the plates come off the pin)
> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no
> idea if this is safe or not)
>
> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution.
> I was hoping someone here might know the answer.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.

Options 3 and 4 won't work in the long term, and 1 and 2 are the safest bet.

You could also use the chain as it is, but avoid using the baaaaad
combinations.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

 

[Nate Knutson]

David L. Johnson wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 18:01:34 -0700, Bestest Handsander wrote:
>
> > 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
> > 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
> > original connex link)
>
> I'd go for this option. I've used two old-fashioned master links side-by
> side on a fixed-gear chain with no trouble.
>
> > 3. Driving the pin pushed out
> to shorten the chain back in to reconnect
> > the needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of
> > time before the plates come off the pin)
>
> So, you take an expensive (very) and make it as unreliable as a $5
> cheapie?

Meh... Personally I'd trust the bottom-end chain, way, way more.

 

[A Muzi]

Bestest Handsander wrote:

> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As far as
> I can tell my options are:
>
> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
> original connex link)
> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect the
> needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of time
> before the plates come off the pin)
> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no idea
> if this is safe or not)
>
> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I was
> hoping someone here might know the answer.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
Get another snaplink - and don't worry, it's ok.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[RonSonic]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:19:23 -0500, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Bestest Handsander wrote:
>> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
>> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As
>> far as I can tell my options are:
>>
>> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
>> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close
>> to the original connex link)
>> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to
>> reconnect the needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be
>> a matter of time before the plates come off the pin)
>> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no
>> idea if this is safe or not)
>>
>> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution.
>> I was hoping someone here might know the answer.
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Options 3 and 4 won't work in the long term, and 1 and 2 are the safest bet.
>
>You could also use the chain as it is, but avoid using the baaaaad
>combinations.

Beat me to it. He shouldn't be in big - big anyway.

Ron

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:19:23 -0500, Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:

> You could also use the chain as it is, but avoid using the baaaaad
> combinations.

Very bad idea. You _will_ eventually, when you are tired, shift into a
big-big combination by mistake. Snap. Bad thing happens.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | "What am I on? I'm on my bike, six hours a day, busting my ass.
_`\(,_ | What are you on?" --Lance Armstrong
(_)/ (_) |

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 18:23:05 -0800, Nate Knutson wrote:

>> So, you take an expensive (very) and make it as unreliable as a $5
>> cheapie?
>
> Meh... Personally I'd trust the bottom-end chain, way, way more.

Well, I didn't buy the Wipperman. What's that cost now? $65 freaking
dollars? Oh, wait, "only" $35 for 9-speed. Ah, but that is not stainless
-- around $70 for 9-speed stainless as well as 10-speed stainless. But at
least it's not titaniam, at $350+ (and how long do you think it'll last?

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President
_`\(,_ | should on no account be allowed to do the job. -- Douglas Adams
(_)/ (_) |

 

[Anon Poster]

>>You could also use the chain as it is, but avoid using the baaaaad
>>combinations.
>
> Beat me to it. He shouldn't be in big - big anyway.

Spoken like a fat 'ol Sunday rider on his steel-frame tourer.

When racing, it's not uncommon to face the choice of either using the "big -
big" combination, or lose the wheel you're following due to having to back
off your pedaling power to change from the big chainring and the small one,
and change a couple of cogs at the rear too.

 

[Paul Kopit]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 18:01:34 -0700, "Bestest Handsander" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
>original connex link)

Any 10sp link or a Sram Gold 9sp link.

 

[Kenny]

Bestest Handsander wrote:
> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As far as
> I can tell my options are:
>
> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
> original connex link)
> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect the
> needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of time
> before the plates come off the pin)
> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no idea
> if this is safe or not)
>
> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I was
> hoping someone here might know the answer.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.

I choose 3, only because I've done it a couple of times and the chain
has never failed me. Most of my rides are hilly to mountainous and I
weigh 81kg.

 

[RonSonic]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:33:10 +0200, "Anon Poster" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>>>You could also use the chain as it is, but avoid using the baaaaad
>>>combinations.
>>
>> Beat me to it. He shouldn't be in big - big anyway.
>
>Spoken like a fat 'ol Sunday rider on his steel-frame tourer.

Actually a fat ol' Sunday 'cross racer ....

>When racing, it's not uncommon to face the choice of either using the "big -
>big" combination, or lose the wheel you're following due to having to back
>off your pedaling power to change from the big chainring and the small one,
>and change a couple of cogs at the rear too.

with a single ring up front. Ha.

In this day of Ergo and the near instant double shift it ain't that hard.
Remembering where you are on the cogset is what's hard.

Ron

 

[RonSonic]

On 27 Mar 2006 07:25:36 -0800, "Kenny" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Bestest Handsander wrote:
>> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
>> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As far as
>> I can tell my options are:
>>
>> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
>> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to the
>> original connex link)
>> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect the
>> needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of time
>> before the plates come off the pin)
>> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no idea
>> if this is safe or not)
>>
>> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I was
>> hoping someone here might know the answer.
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>
>I choose 3, only because I've done it a couple of times and the chain
>has never failed me. Most of my rides are hilly to mountainous and I
>weigh 81kg.

Yeah, you can generally get away with it, but the failure mode really sucks. For
me it included a rear der tangled in the spokes as I skidded to a stop.

Ron

 

[Bestest Handsander]

"RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 27 Mar 2006 07:25:36 -0800, "Kenny" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>Bestest Handsander wrote:
>>> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
>>> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As
>>> far as
>>> I can tell my options are:
>>>
>>> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
>>> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to
>>> the
>>> original connex link)
>>> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect
>>> the
>>> needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of time
>>> before the plates come off the pin)
>>> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no
>>> idea
>>> if this is safe or not)
>>>
>>> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I
>>> was
>>> hoping someone here might know the answer.
>>>
>>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>>I choose 3, only because I've done it a couple of times and the chain
>>has never failed me. Most of my rides are hilly to mountainous and I
>>weigh 81kg.
>
> Yeah, you can generally get away with it, but the failure mode really
> sucks. For
> me it included a rear der tangled in the spokes as I skidded to a stop.

Happened to me too. Right in the middle of a 7% 5 mile climb. Was able to
keep control and it didn't do any damage, but it sucked standing on the
roadside for an hour asking every rider who came by, "Gotta chain tool?"
Luckily someone finally did. Now I carry one, but will probably never need
now that I take better care of my chains.

 

[RonSonic]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 20:24:34 -0700, "Bestest Handsander" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"RonSonic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 27 Mar 2006 07:25:36 -0800, "Kenny" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>Bestest Handsander wrote:
>>>> In a moment of lazy stupidity (or is it lazy intelligence and active
>>>> stupidity?) I cut my new Wippermann 10S0 chain 2 inches too short. As
>>>> far as
>>>> I can tell my options are:
>>>>
>>>> 1. Get a new chain (expensive)
>>>> 2. Get a second connex link (don't know if that would work so close to
>>>> the
>>>> original connex link)
>>>> 3. Driving the pin pushed out to shorten the chain back in to reconnect
>>>> the
>>>> needed links (scares me to death, 'cuz it would just be a matter of time
>>>> before the plates come off the pin)
>>>> 4. Try a Shimano replacement pin used to reconnect the 7800 chain (no
>>>> idea
>>>> if this is safe or not)
>>>>
>>>> I've sent an email message to connex to see if they have a solution. I
>>>> was
>>>> hoping someone here might know the answer.
>>>>
>>>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>>
>>>I choose 3, only because I've done it a couple of times and the chain
>>>has never failed me. Most of my rides are hilly to mountainous and I
>>>weigh 81kg.
>>
>> Yeah, you can generally get away with it, but the failure mode really
>> sucks. For
>> me it included a rear der tangled in the spokes as I skidded to a stop.
>
>Happened to me too. Right in the middle of a 7% 5 mile climb. Was able to
>keep control and it didn't do any damage, but it sucked standing on the
>roadside for an hour asking every rider who came by, "Gotta chain tool?"
>Luckily someone finally did. Now I carry one, but will probably never need
>now that I take better care of my chains.

I was on the mountain bike and ended up zip tying the der out of the way,
dropping the saddle and flintstoning the four miles back to the trailhead. About
half of that was along the top of an elevated levee.

The Dork-O-Meter was pegged.

Ron