Cutting Seatposts



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**** wrote:
> Bill Wheeler wrote:
>> I hear there are a few riders in this NG who even cut down there handlebars, (can't have a extra
>> 1 inch sticking out or some other dumb sh!t reason).
> Ever clip a tree?

Nope not me, not ever. Okay MAYBE once.......

There are a few tight squeezes on Fire Line and Hemlock Loop at FOMBA that are only 1/2" wider than
my Uncle Jesse bars..

There is one in particulat ths is 1/2" _narrower_ than my bars. I disctinctlly recall the ride in
which I found that out... I remember riding along and seeing it and thinking "Just ride through like
you always do, you can make it, you've got it, you've got it, plenty of room!!!" <wham> "You ait got
it!" <testicles meet stem> "UffDAaaa!!!!!"

I have since learned how to "lean and flick" my way through these tight spots.
 
John G wrote:
>
>
> Jonathan Bond wrote:
>
> > then again, I've considered putting Ti and Aluminum bolts all over
>
>> my new bike, and its getting carbon fiber spacers... ;)
>
>
>
> <Pssst> hey kid <psst> wanna buy some Ti? I got some Ti innet and outter chainring bolts. Come on,
> you know you wanna.... Finest kind, highest grade. Commercially pure.

Ti chainring bolts? What do you take me for, a fool! You have to get ALLOY chainring bolts, they're
lighter and can still handle the stress. Seatpost/Stem/bolts that need more strength are Ti, the
rest are alloy. Ti is 6 wasted grams, and no anodized purple! For shame...

Jon Bond
 
I think what he means is that if you cut the non-butted part off your post then lower the post into
the seat tube, you could crush the butted part of the post.

--
Bob ctviggen at rcn dot com

"Lee Bower" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So what you're saying is that you shouldn't adjust your seatpost to the proper height because it
> could be in an area where it is butted??? What
does
> that have to do with cutting the post that is way down in the frame?
>
> Lee
>
> "John G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > Eric Lafferty wrote:
> >
> > > It's easy enough to do so what's the big deal?
> >
> > As I stated earlier, _some_ seatposts are internally butted so they are thicker at the clamping
> > area and thinner elsewhere. if you are now changing the actual clamping area, you might
> > possibly be clamping down on an area not designed to sustain such clamping forces, and thus
> > crush the post
> >
> >
 
Jonathan Bond wrote:
> John G wrote:
>> Jonathan Bond wrote:
>> > then again, I've considered putting Ti and Aluminum bolts all over
>>> my new bike, and its getting carbon fiber spacers... ;)
>> <Pssst> hey kid <psst> wanna buy some Ti? I got some Ti innet and outter chainring bolts. Come
>> on, you know you wanna.... Finest kind, highest grade. Commercially pure.

> Ti chainring bolts? What do you take me for, a fool! You have to get ALLOY chainring bolts,
> they're lighter and can still handle the stress.\

Maybe under a fly-weight like you they can. For folks like me it's Steel or Ti bolts ONLY.
 
On Tue, 22 Apr 2003 13:16:14 -0500, **** <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>
>Bill Wheeler wrote: I hear there are a few riders in
>> this NG who even cut down there handlebars, (can't have a extra 1 inch sticking out or some other
>> dumb sh!t reason).
>>
>
>Ever clip a tree?

Yes, and I still do....but it's not the bars, it's me trying to hard to cut it close.

Peace, Bill The mind serves properly as a window glass rather than as a reflector, that is, the mind
should give an immediate view instead of an interpretation of the world.
:-]
 
"Mark Hickey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:p[email protected]...
> Jan Sacharuk <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Sometimes, having a couple kilometres of post is just a pain.
>
> Yeah, I would imagine so... like for example, having to mount your bike with the use of a
> helicopter.

you could hold onto the seatpost with the bike vertical, run like hell, pull the back brake on and
stick the wheel in the ground pole-vault style and hey presto!

> Plus, I'd have to believe finding a stem to get the bar height right would be a *****.

those riser bars are just a fashion statement though so you'd definitely need a lot of steerer
and spacers.

And I wouldn't
> want to ride it down much of a hill!

think about it this way - you could ride to the bottom of a hill, pull an endo and dismount
gracefully a couple of k's uphill, pull the bike up to you and ride down again! (N.B. don't forget
to put the saddle down a couple of inches) .

Steve E.
 
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