Cutting the steerer tube

[[email protected]]

Andrew Muzi writes:

>> I need to shorten my bike's steerer tube by around 5 mm so that I
>> won't have 2 stack rings or a large ring above the stem. It's an
>> aluminium tube. To do the job, do I absolutely need to remove the
>> fork from the frame? Or should I be able to do the job leaving the
>> fork mounted? I am thinking of using a junior hacksaw for the job.
>> Alternatively a Dremel tool can be enlisted.

> Sure, you could, but why? Most people who can cut a dead straight
> line in a vise with the work horizontal will drift in midair.

But back to basics, as others have said, why cut 5mm off. That is not
a length with a perceptible effect on riding. That reminds me of a
rider who spent many sessions adjusting his saddle height up and down
about 3mm. Put the spacer ring under the stem and be done with it.

Jobst Brandt

 

[A Muzi]

Artoi wrote:
>>> I need to shorten my bike's steerer tube by around 5 mm so that I
>>> won't have 2 stack rings or a large ring above the stem. It's an
>>> aluminium tube. To do the job, do I absolutely need to remove the
>>> fork from the frame? Or should I be able to do the job leaving the
>>> fork mounted? I am thinking of using a junior hacksaw for the job.
>>> Alternatively a Dremel tool can be enlisted.

> Andrew Muzi writes:
>> Sure, you could, but why? Most people who can cut a dead straight
>> line in a vise with the work horizontal will drift in midair.

[email protected] wrote:
> But back to basics, as others have said, why cut 5mm off. That is not
> a length with a perceptible effect on riding. That reminds me of a
> rider who spent many sessions adjusting his saddle height up and down
> about 3mm. Put the spacer ring under the stem and be done with it.

Yes, a better answer, I agree.

Peter Drucker:
"The worst thing is doing well that which should not have been done at all".
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[Mark Hickey]

[email protected] wrote:

>But back to basics, as others have said, why cut 5mm off. That is not
>a length with a perceptible effect on riding. That reminds me of a
>rider who spent many sessions adjusting his saddle height up and down
>about 3mm. Put the spacer ring under the stem and be done with it.

I've got a buddy who's likely to stop three or four times during a
long ride to tweak the saddle up and down by sub-mm increments. I'm
glad that I'm not the only one who's seen this behavior.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

 

[Carl Sundquist]

"Mark Hickey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got a buddy who's likely to stop three or four times during a
> long ride to tweak the saddle up and down by sub-mm increments. I'm
> glad that I'm not the only one who's seen this behavior.
>

Is that due to the rough climbs crossing the intercoastal or too many bagels
at Einstein's mid-ride?

 

[[email protected]]

On Apr 12, 3:45 am, Mark Hickey <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> >But back to basics, as others have said, why cut 5mm off. That is not
> >a length with a perceptible effect on riding. That reminds me of a
> >rider who spent many sessions adjusting his saddle height up and down
> >about 3mm. Put the spacer ring under the stem and be done with it.
>
> I've got a buddy who's likely to stop three or four times during a
> long ride to tweak the saddle up and down by sub-mm increments. I'm
> glad that I'm not the only one who's seen this behavior.

Those guys drive me nuts! I have 4 bikes I use regularly with saddle
heights (spindle to saddle) variying as much as 3-4cm between all of
them and cranks from 165 to 195 with just about every size in between,
and bar heights equally spread about. I am perhaps a fraction more
limber than the average FM, but basically I have come to the
conclusion that there are lots of comfortable positions and that tiny
position changes make no difference.

The last time I was on a ride with one of those saddle adjuster-guys I
straight-faced suggested he get a seatpost with mm increments on it
and that he work up a chart at home that takes into account his
different shorts' thicknesses so he could pre-adjust before each ride.
He didn't seem to realize I was joking.

But to the OP, if you want to cut off the 5mm, whether for function,
aesthetics, or just for fun, go for it. And if it's a little crooked,
it doesn't matter. Taking the fork out and/or using a jig would be
nice, but it really isn't critical. Even getting a few shavings into
the headset isn't really a big deal. Just try not to hacksaw the top-
tube by accident, and you'll be fine.

Joseph

 

[Mark Hickey]

"Carl Sundquist" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Mark Hickey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I've got a buddy who's likely to stop three or four times during a
>> long ride to tweak the saddle up and down by sub-mm increments. I'm
>> glad that I'm not the only one who's seen this behavior.
>
>Is that due to the rough climbs crossing the intercoastal or too many bagels
>at Einstein's mid-ride?

This was in New Jersey, actually - though the bagels could have played
a part there, too... ;-)

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

 

[Artoi]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:

> But back to basics, as others have said, why cut 5mm off. That is not
> a length with a perceptible effect on riding. That reminds me of a
> rider who spent many sessions adjusting his saddle height up and down
> about 3mm. Put the spacer ring under the stem and be done with it.

I guess you can call it cosmetic, to avoid having two rings stacked on
top. Presently I already have a 1cm ring above (out of necessity due to
existing steerer length). Maybe I should trim off 8-9mm instead.
--

 

[Artoi]

In article <[email protected]>,
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:

> But to the OP, if you want to cut off the 5mm, whether for function,
> aesthetics, or just for fun, go for it. And if it's a little crooked,
> it doesn't matter. Taking the fork out and/or using a jig would be
> nice, but it really isn't critical. Even getting a few shavings into
> the headset isn't really a big deal. Just try not to hacksaw the top-
> tube by accident, and you'll be fine.

Thanks. I'll be using a junior hacksaw.
--

 

[[email protected]]

>
> I guess you can call it cosmetic, to avoid having two rings stacked on
> top.

use vice grips, channel locks

 

[Michael Press]

In article
<[email protected]>,
Artoi <[email protected]> wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > But back to basics, as others have said, why cut 5mm off. That is not
> > a length with a perceptible effect on riding. That reminds me of a
> > rider who spent many sessions adjusting his saddle height up and down
> > about 3mm. Put the spacer ring under the stem and be done with it.
>
> I guess you can call it cosmetic, to avoid having two rings stacked on
> top. Presently I already have a 1cm ring above (out of necessity due to
> existing steerer length). Maybe I should trim off 8-9mm instead.

I have 2 cm above the stem; and I plan
to chop the steering tube real soon now.

--
Michael Press