cxp33, 8 speed chorus--spokes and nipples?

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by santa, Apr 24, 2004.

  1. santa

    santa New Member

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    Hi,

    I want to build up my first set of wheels. I bought "The Bicycle Wheel" and read it, and now I'm trying to order components. I have Chorus 8 speed with Chorus hubs, and I am planning on getting silver 32 hole Mavic cxp33 rims (I weigh 210 lbs). I think the spoke lengths should be 290 and 292 for a 32 hole, 3x pattern and 14/15 double butted spokes. Is that right? The DT website's spoke calculator doesn't have a listing for Chorus 8 speed hubs. (There is also a note in the user instructions to subtract 1 mm from the calculated length for cxp33 rims which I accounted for in the lengths I listed.)

    The DT website also says I need to use 14 mm nipples for cxp33 rims, but I only see 12mm and 16mm long nipples offered at places like Excel and Branford Bike, and Excel only offers alloy nipples. I was thinking I should use brass nipples since that's recommended in the book and because it's my first set of wheels. Do I need to order 16mm nipples? Will that affect the proper spoke length? On a side note, do the cxp33's have washers that aren't alloy to prevent galling with alloy nipples?

    I am also planning on buying the Minoura Pro Truing Stand. Do I also need to get a dishing tool?

    I would buy this stuff at my LBS, but they don’t stock the rims, so I’ll be using mail order.

    Thanks in advance.
     
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  2. Nick Payne

    Nick Payne Guest

    "santa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    >
    > I want to build up my first set of wheels. I bought "The
    > Bicycle Wheel" and read it, and now I'm trying to order
    > components. I have Chorus 8 speed with Chorus hubs, and I
    > am planning on getting silver 32 hole Mavic cxp33 rims (I
    > weigh 210 lbs). I think the spoke lengths should be 290
    > and 292 for a 32 hole, 3x pattern and 14/15 double butted
    > spokes. Is that right? The DT website's spoke calculator
    > doesn't have a listing for Chorus 8 speed hubs. (There is
    > also a note in the user instructions to subtract 1 mm from
    > the calculated length for cxp33 rims which I accounted for
    > in the lengths I listed.)
    >
    > The DT website also says I need to use 14 mm nipples for
    > cxp33 rims, but I only see 12mm and 16mm long nipples
    > offered at places like Excel and Branford Bike, and Excel
    > only offers alloy nipples. I was thinking I should use
    > brass nipples since that's recommended in the book and
    > because it's my first set of wheels. Do I need to order
    > 16mm nipples? Will that affect the proper spoke length? On
    > a side note, do the cxp33's have washers that aren't alloy
    > to prevent galling with alloy nipples?
    >
    > I am also planning on buying the Minoura Pro Truing Stand.
    > Do I also need to get a dishing tool?
    >
    According to Spocalc, those are the correct spoke lengths.
    Ordinary 12mm nipples work fine for me when building with
    CXP33 rims. You just don't get as much of the nipple poking
    out of the rim.

    At a pinch you can build a good wheel without either a
    dishing tool or truing stand. Use the bike frame to true
    the wheel, and flip the wheel in the frame to get the dish
    correct. If you decide, having built one pair, that you
    like building wheels, then get the truing stand and
    dishing gauge.

    Nick
     
  3. santa-<< I think the spoke lengths should be 290 and 292 for
    a 32 hole, 3x pattern and 14/15 double butted spokes. Is
    that right? The DT website's spoke calculator doesn't have a
    listing for Chorus 8 speed hubs. (There is also a note in
    the user instructions to subtract 1 mm from the calculated
    length for cxp33 rims which I accounted for in the lengths I
    listed.) >><BR><BR>

    No need to subtract 1mm from the length calculated. That was
    so for CXP-30 when ya had to use 16mm nipps but not the CXP-
    33(use 12mm nipps)..Use thew same hub dimensions as modern
    Campagnolo hubs. Altho not exact, the spoke lengths will
    come out the same.

    santa<< The DT website also says I need to use 14 mm nipples
    for cxp33 rims,
    >><BR><BR>

    NOT so, we build dozens of CXP-33 with 12mm nipps w/o any
    diffuculty at all.

    santa<< Excel only offers alloy nipples. >><BR><BR>

    Yikes, use brass nipps, find a place that includes the nipps
    with the spokes...like us...

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
    costruite eccezionalmente bene"
     
  4. santa

    santa New Member

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    What were the hub designations you used for Spocalc? I tried it and I couldn't get 290 and 292 for the rear wheel, and I also couldn't get 292 for the front wheel, which is what I was going to use.

    I measured the front hub's flange diameter and I got about 40mm, and I got approximately 100mm for the OLD measurement, which seems close to this listing for the hub:

    Front: Campagnolo 1980's, 90's Chorus, C-Record, Athena low flange

    For the rear wheel hub, I measured and got approximately:

    d=45mm
    OLD = 130mm
    A=25mm
    B=45mm

    and then I calculated WL and WR:

    WL=40mm
    WR=20mm

    Those figures seem close to the listing:

    Rear: Campagnolo 8 speed cassette

    Using those hub choices, Spocalc comes up with:

    Front: 292.9 and 292.9

    Rear: 292.2 and 290.5

    for a 32 hole 3x pattern with cxp33 rims.

    But, what size nipples does that assume? Boy, is this confusing!
     
  5. Nick Payne

    Nick Payne Guest

    "santa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > Nick Payne [/i] According to Spocalc, those are the
    > correct spoke lengths. Ordinary 12mm nipples work fine for
    > me when building with CXP33 rims. You just don't get as
    > much of the nipple poking out of the rim.[/QUOTE]
    >
    > What were the hub designations you used for Spocalc? I
    > tried it and I
    couldn't get 290 and 292 for the rear wheel, and I also
    couldn't get 292 for the front wheel, which is what I was
    going to use.
    >
    I used the hub entry titled Campagnolo 8 speed cassette,
    which for 3x gives
    292.2mm for the left and 290.5mm for the right.

    Nick
     
  6. Zilla

    Zilla Guest

    > At a pinch you can build a good wheel without either a
    > dishing tool or truing stand. Use the bike frame to true
    > the wheel, and flip the wheel in the frame to get the dish
    > correct. If you decide, having built one pair, that you
    > like building wheels, then get the truing stand and
    > dishing gauge.
    >
    > Nick

    Actually good advise, that is, try wheelbuilding first
    before you spend the tools to do it. As I've posted here, I
    just re-built my rear wheel - a virgin endeavour for me. I
    found both the truing stand and dishing tool both
    invaluable. True (pun intended) that you can do the job
    using a bike, but it was nice to be able to do it in my
    living room while drinking suds and watching TV with the
    tools I had.

    I bought the Park TS-7 truing stand, which came with the WAG-
    3 dishing tool from REI for $75.00. Nashbar has the Minoura
    Workman Pro for $40.

    --
    - Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)
     
  7. santa

    santa New Member

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    For a truing stand, what does "self centering" mean anyway?

    I had planned on buyinig the Park TS-7, but it seems poorly designed compared to the Minoura Pro, which allows you to move the guides incrementally by turning a screw.
     
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