cycleops fluid2 trainer--assembly question

[ken]

I just got my a brand new Fluid2 trainer from modernbike.com ($215 +
$4.99 shipping--great deal!) and I can't seem to assemble it correctly.

It should be easy, but here's the problem (i'm using the part names as
they appear in the owner's manual):

The Resistance Unit bottom is attached to the frame by the carriage
bolt & Nut. Check.

The Resistance Unit Adjustment Knob is supposed to attach to the frame
by the L-Bolt, which should allow the roller to move forward and
backward to press against the rear wheel. The problem I'm having is the
L-Bolt only seems to go about 1/2 inch into the Resistance Unit
Adjustment Knob before I can't turn the knob anymore.

That's causing me to not be able to bring the roller against the tire.
The RU can pivot and reach the tire, but the L-Bolt is too long.
There's about a 2-inch gap.

One solution would be to cut and shorten the threaded side of the
L-Bolt--it's currently about 2 inches. But I can't imagine that would
be a requirement for assembly. Is everyone else's L-Bolt 2" long on the
threaded side? Am I missing something?

Help! Thanks a lot.

Ken

 

[[email protected]]

ken wrote:
> I just got my a brand new Fluid2 trainer from modernbike.com ($215 +
> $4.99 shipping--great deal!) and I can't seem to assemble it correctly.
>
> It should be easy, but here's the problem (i'm using the part names as
> they appear in the owner's manual):
>
> The Resistance Unit bottom is attached to the frame by the carriage
> bolt & Nut. Check.
>
> The Resistance Unit Adjustment Knob is supposed to attach to the frame
> by the L-Bolt, which should allow the roller to move forward and
> backward to press against the rear wheel. The problem I'm having is the
> L-Bolt only seems to go about 1/2 inch into the Resistance Unit
> Adjustment Knob before I can't turn the knob anymore.
>
> That's causing me to not be able to bring the roller against the tire.
> The RU can pivot and reach the tire, but the L-Bolt is too long.
> There's about a 2-inch gap.
>
> One solution would be to cut and shorten the threaded side of the
> L-Bolt--it's currently about 2 inches. But I can't imagine that would
> be a requirement for assembly. Is everyone else's L-Bolt 2" long on the
> threaded side?

The L-bolt on my Cyclops Fluid2 (new last year) is about 2" long, so it
sounds like you've got the right length.

> Am I missing something?

The knob on mine doesn't stop -- it keeps on threading onto the L-bolt
to bring the roller to the tire. Maybe theres something stopping the
knob on yours? Is there some plastic molded over the threaded hole or
something? Good luck!

> Help! Thanks a lot.
>
> Ken

 

[ken]

Thank you for the reply.

My L-bolt screws only about 4 threads (prob 1/4 inch) into the silver
cylinder that attaches to the knob. So it sounds like I've got either a
defective (too large) L-bolt or a defective (too small) cylinder. Does
that sound right? I'll call the manufacturer & bike shop Monday to
confirm and see about getting a replacement bolt and cylinder.

Frustrating, but at least it was 55 and sunny today so I could go for a
ride outside.


[email protected] wrote:
> ken wrote:
> > I just got my a brand new Fluid2 trainer from modernbike.com ($215 +
> > $4.99 shipping--great deal!) and I can't seem to assemble it correctly.
> >
> > It should be easy, but here's the problem (i'm using the part names as
> > they appear in the owner's manual):
> >
> > The Resistance Unit bottom is attached to the frame by the carriage
> > bolt & Nut. Check.
> >
> > The Resistance Unit Adjustment Knob is supposed to attach to the frame
> > by the L-Bolt, which should allow the roller to move forward and
> > backward to press against the rear wheel. The problem I'm having is the
> > L-Bolt only seems to go about 1/2 inch into the Resistance Unit
> > Adjustment Knob before I can't turn the knob anymore.
> >
> > That's causing me to not be able to bring the roller against the tire.
> > The RU can pivot and reach the tire, but the L-Bolt is too long.
> > There's about a 2-inch gap.
> >
> > One solution would be to cut and shorten the threaded side of the
> > L-Bolt--it's currently about 2 inches. But I can't imagine that would
> > be a requirement for assembly. Is everyone else's L-Bolt 2" long on the
> > threaded side?
>
> The L-bolt on my Cyclops Fluid2 (new last year) is about 2" long, so it
> sounds like you've got the right length.
>
> > Am I missing something?
>
> The knob on mine doesn't stop -- it keeps on threading onto the L-bolt
> to bring the roller to the tire. Maybe theres something stopping the
> knob on yours? Is there some plastic molded over the threaded hole or
> something? Good luck!
>
> > Help! Thanks a lot.
> >
> > Ken

 

[Matt]

Yes, you clearly have a problem. Mine screws in until only about 8
threads are exposed. The good news is that CycleOps has great service.

Matt.

 

[ken]

Thanks, Matt. Spoke with the dealer today. They were very nice, said
essentially the same thing as you, and I'm expecting a new Resistance
Unit in the mail in a few days.

quick plug forJim at modernbikes.com. Super service, real nice.

Will give final update once the part comes in.