Peter Clinch wrote:
> If anyone wants to have a stab at the "no content yet" bits I'd
> be very happy about that!
OK, here's a first stab for discussion:
Checking the Bike
1. Ensure that the tyres are in good condition and pumped up to the
correct pressure. The tyre sidewall should be undamaged. The
correct pressure range for the tyre should be marked on the sidewall;
you may find a track pump will achieve these pressures more easily than
a traditional stick pump.
2. Check that the wheels are straight, by inverting or suspending the
bike and rotating the wheels; the brake blocks can be used as a guide.
A well-built wheel should remain within 2mm [1] of perfectly true; any
worse than this and the brakes will be harder to operate.
Your local bicycle shop can re-true wheels such that they spin freely
between the brake pads.
3. The brake blocks should have at least 3mm [1] of pad left before it
is worn down. They should be bearing on the wheel braking surface,
never on the tyre sidewall. Your child should be able to operate both
brakes comfortably with their hands; many brake levers have adjustment
screws to limit the lever travel for children with smaller hands.
[picture?] The brakes should be adjusted such that when the bike is
pushed forwards and the front brake alone is operated by your child, the
rear of the bike will lift; if the rear brake alone is operated, the
rear wheel will slide. Small adjustments to the brake pad spacing can
be achieved with barrel adjusters found at either end of the brake
cables. [picture?]
4. Standing in front of the bike and gripping the front wheel between
your knees, it should not be possible to twist the handlebars out of
alignment; if it is, it should be reset and the headset tightened
[picture of headset nut?] The handlebars should not rotate. [picture of
stem nut?]
5. The saddle should be at a height such that when seated, your child
can touch the ground with one foot. The saddle and the seatpost should
be securely fixed. [picture of child with one foot poised?]
6. Gears should operate correctly. In particular, the chain should not
drop off the largest or smallest cogs when the gears are changed, as
this could damage the bicycle. The chain itself should run smoothly
over all the gears. Moving parts should be /lightly/ oiled, with any
excess wiped off with a rag.
7. All other parts of the bicycle, where fitted, should be securely
attached. Mudguards should not rub on the tyres. Lights should be
working and not be obscured.
References:
1. Richard's Bicycle Book ??? [my copy is very old and somewhat out of
date - has anyone got an opine on the latest edition?]
2. Sheldon Brown's website:
http://sheldonbrown.com/repair/
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[1] I'm unsure whether to give numbers here ("2mm", "3mm"); a bike-savvy
person will know that these numbers can be pushed under certain
circumstances, but if this is for non-bike-savvy parents I'm not sure
that eg "adequate pad depth" is, well, adequate.
