cyclocross vs Rodie which to buy?

[danrche]

Hello everyone,

I'm making the jump from MTB to big boy bike. I've been ridding my MTB to work (50 mile round trip) and want to switch but I want something durable. I was thinking about a cyclocross over a rodie b/c of the tire size and the better comfort. I live in Houston Tx so there's not much for hills here, it's pretty flat but the roads aren't ideal. My thought is I can make use of the higher speeds from the cyclocross and still maintain some of the durablity of the mtb as the tires will hold the road better with all the hazards. I thought about a rodie but am nervous about the size of the tires mainly. I'm afraid that the cracks, potholes and such will cause me to crash as I'm not that skilled on a roadie frame. I also have to ditch at times off to to the side to avoid cars and even people some times which makes a cyclocross a bit more appealing. Please feel free to comment, all are welcome.

 

[AlanG]

I think a cyclocross bike makes a lot of sense for a commuter. You could always put thinner tires on it or get a second set of wheels if you want to use it as a road bike. I'd look for one that can easily accept fenders, a rack, and panniers.

Here is my commuter bike... a 2009 Fuji Cross Pro

 

[alfeng]

Another alternative is to simply turn your MTB into a Frankenbike ...

Here's the Frankenbike which I am in the process of cobbling together:

​

​

Of course, the MTB frame & fork can be fitted with any FAT tire ... or, a Road slick.

• If you are taller than 5'10" then I would recommend a CX bike over a Frankenbike conversion

Regardless, I would also recommend a CX bike over a regular Road bike due to the tire size limitation of the latter ...

BTW. One other consideration is a bike like the JAMIS CODA ... a FLAT BAR bike with 700c wheels which could latter be converted to a Drop Bar bike. The base model has a MSRP of $550US.

 

[rawhite1969]

Originally Posted by alfeng .

Another alternative is to simply turn your MTB into a Frankenbike ...

Here's the Frankenbike which I am in the process of cobbling together:

​

​

Of course, the MTB frame & fork can be fitted with any FAT tire ... or, a Road slick.

• If you are taller than 5'10" then I would recommend a CX bike over a Frankenbike conversion

Regardless, I would also recommend a CX bike over a regular Road bike due to the tire size limitation of the latter ...

BTW. One other consideration is a bike like the JAMIS CODA ... a FLAT BAR bike with 700c wheels which could latter be converted to a Drop Bar bike. The base model has a MSRP of $550US.

I just did similar with a Trek Hybrid. Largest CX tires I could get, 700c tires, drop bars, integrated shifters. Rides well, sports fenders and a rack, can pull a cargo trailer. but I've not yet got the front derailler shifting through all 3 rings with the new integrated shifters.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by rawhite1969 .

I just did similar with a Trek Hybrid. Largest CX tires I could get, 700c tires, drop bars, integrated shifters. Rides well, sports fenders and a rack, can pull a cargo trailer. but [COLOR= #0000ff]I've not yet got the front derailler shifting through all 3 rings with the new integrated shifters.[/COLOR]

The cable pull for Shimano Road & MTB shifters & for their respective front derailleur types are at a different rate and they are generally not considered to be interchangeable ...

• In the past, I've only been able to get a [COLOR= #0000ff]Triple capable[/COLOR] Shimano Road shifter to shift across two chainrings when using a "regular" profile ([COLOR= #808080]e.g., "top" pull[/COLOR]) Shimano MTB front derailleur, too ... I was glad enough that the "extra" click of the 105 Road Triple shifter was sufficient to enable an older, 8-speed XT front derailleur across the two chainrings.

• There are[COLOR= #808080]-or-were [/COLOR]a couple of 9-speed XTR front derailleurs which look more like a Road derailleur ... one was bottom pull and the other was top pull ... I don't know if the pull is compatible with Shimano Road shifters OR if they have the same pull rate as the "regular" profile MTB front derailleurs ... more-than-likely, the latter.

BTW. Recently, someone in Europe came up with an adapter which allows a Shimano Road front derailleur to be used as a top pull front derailleur -- basically, the gizmo is a counter-arm which is attached to the existing down-pull arm on a Shimano Road front derailleur. Since most of the parallelograms on Shimano front derailleurs are riveted to the "clamp" I do not know how attaching the counter-arm is addressed ([COLOR= #808080]unfortunately, I didn't pay enough attention to the gizmo to say more about it since[/COLOR][COLOR= #808080] I figure that if 'I' wanted to use a Triple crankset that I would probably just use a set of Campagnolo shifters [/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]similar to the ones pictured[/COLOR]).

 

[AlanG]

Originally Posted by alfeng .



BTW. Recently, someone in Europe came up with an adapter which allows a Shimano Road front derailleur to be used as a top pull front derailleur -- basically, the gizmo is a counter-arm which is attached to the existing down-pull arm on a Shimano Road front derailleur. Since most of the parallelograms on Shimano front derailleurs are riveted to the "clamp" I do not know how attaching the counter-arm is addressed ([COLOR= #808080]unfortunately, I didn't pay enough attention to the gizmo to say more about it since[/COLOR][COLOR= #808080] I figure that if 'I' wanted to use a Triple crankset that I would probably just use a set of Campagnolo shifters [/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]similar to the ones pictured[/COLOR]).

My cyclocross bike has Ultegra derailleurs and runs the cable from the top via a pulley attached to the seat tube beneath the front derailleur to pull it from below. So if you don't mind making a hole in the frame, that is another solution.

 

[danrche]

wow, thanks for all the advice guys. I've thought about doing a frankinbike with my MTB and put drop bars and increase the front chain ring to something bigger. I'm currently topping out at 30 mph in a sprint (no wind). The bike is about 4 yrs old and I've been itching to get a rodie, but I ride alot to work and the tires and durablity are the main attractions to a CX.

I did some research and have found that CX have shorter distance between the seat and bars then a rodie. So you're laying flat and stretched out more, more aerodynamic. the CX sits more upright b/c of the shorter tube, and is more comfortable. BUT the downside is the gearing is lower, and the tires more roll resistance.

I think I'm going to buy a CX over a rodie b/c of the commuter benefits. I don't race, I just started doing some group rides so I don't NEED to put up big speeds.

I'm definitely going to test drive them both this weekend to see the difference.

Thanks for your help guys,

cheers

 

[danrche]

Originally Posted by AlanG .

I think a cyclocross bike makes a lot of sense for a commuter. You could always put thinner tires on it or get a second set of wheels if you want to use it as a road bike. I'd look for one that can easily accept fenders, a rack, and panniers.

Here is my commuter bike... a 2009 Fuji Cross Pro

nice ride! the rack is very appealing. It'd be nice to not have to carry a backpack on the way to work. Do you feel the extra weight or is it fairly un-noticable?

 

[AlanG]

The weight doesn't bother me and while I can tolerate a backpack, I prefer the "trunk." (The rack weighs very little and whatever I carried in the backpack is the same as what I carry in the trunk. And weight mostly matters only on hills.) I have another trunk that has paniers that unzip from it. These are from pretty thin material so are for occasional use compared with a heavy duty pannier. Fenders are necessary as my commute has 4 miles on a gravel trail that gets pretty dirty when wet. (I'd be filthy without them.) And I like a mirror in traffic. I also have a bright Niterider light system because a lot of the commute is on a very dark trail in the evening this time of year.

 

[AlanG]

Originally Posted by danrche .

wow, thanks for all the advice guys. I've thought about doing a frankinbike with my MTB and put drop bars and increase the front chain ring to something bigger. I'm currently topping out at 30 mph in a sprint (no wind). The bike is about 4 yrs old and I've been itching to get a rodie, but I ride alot to work and the tires and durablity are the main attractions to a CX.

I did some research and have found that CX have shorter distance between the seat and bars then a rodie. So you're laying flat and stretched out more, more aerodynamic. the CX sits more upright b/c of the shorter tube, and is more comfortable. BUT the downside is the gearing is lower, and the tires more roll resistance.

I think I'm going to buy a CX over a rodie b/c of the commuter benefits. I don't race, I just started doing some group rides so I don't NEED to put up big speeds.

I'm definitely going to test drive them both this weekend to see the difference.

Thanks for your help guys,

cheers

The reach from the seat to the bars probably varies from model to model and can be adjusted by the stem length so this isn't necessarily that different than on a road bike. I think that most cyclocross bikes have a higher bottom bracket than a road bike so that the pedals can clear mud somewhat in cyclocross racing. So your seat will end up being about 1/2 inch to an inch higher than on most road bikes assuming you have the same distance from the seat to the pedals. So that will be a factor too. It doesn't bother me but it is a bit more reach to get my toes down to the ground.

As for gearing, it is not that much lower. Usually there is a 46 and a 36 chain ring on a CX vs. a 50/34 on a compact or a 52/39 on a typical standard crank. But this can vary too. You could probably switch to a 50 chain ring if you like but I can't see that being much of limiting factor. (I switched my 36 down to a 34 and my 12-25 cassette for a 12-27 for more low end.) Many bikes now come with a cassette that has a high gear of 11 teeth. And a 46-11 is about the same as a 50-12 combo.

 

[bikonator]

Cyclocross bike for sure. The only difference between the road bike is frame and fork strength. If you don't know much about the matter you or your friends will never notice a difference.
Buy a cyclocross bike.

 

[ambal]

A Cyclocross bike makes sense if your commute is a bit rough. They go well on roads and also gravel tracks and the like.

 

[danrche]

Its settled then cyclocross it is. Now to find the bike..... thanks for all your suggetions

 

[rawhite1969]

Originally Posted by alfeng .



The cable pull for Shimano Road & MTB shifters & for their respective front derailleur types are at a different rate and they are generally not considered to be interchangeable ...

• In the past, I've only been able to get a [COLOR= #0000ff]Triple capable[/COLOR] Shimano Road shifter to shift across two chainrings when using a "regular" profile ([COLOR= #808080]e.g., "top" pull[/COLOR]) Shimano MTB front derailleur, too ... I was glad enough that the "extra" click of the 105 Road Triple shifter was sufficient to enable an older, 8-speed XT front derailleur across the two chainrings.

• There are[COLOR= #808080]-or-were [/COLOR]a couple of 9-speed XTR front derailleurs which look more like a Road derailleur ... one was bottom pull and the other was top pull ... I don't know if the pull is compatible with Shimano Road shifters OR if they have the same pull rate as the "regular" profile MTB front derailleurs ... more-than-likely, the latter.

BTW. Recently, someone in Europe came up with an adapter which allows a Shimano Road front derailleur to be used as a top pull front derailleur -- basically, the gizmo is a counter-arm which is attached to the existing down-pull arm on a Shimano Road front derailleur. Since most of the parallelograms on Shimano front derailleurs are riveted to the "clamp" I do not know how attaching the counter-arm is addressed ([COLOR= #808080]unfortunately, I didn't pay enough attention to the gizmo to say more about it since[/COLOR][COLOR= #808080] I figure that if 'I' wanted to use a Triple crankset that I would probably just use a set of Campagnolo shifters [/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]similar to the ones pictured[/COLOR]).

thanks for the insight! I won't spend too much time adjusting on it since I now understand why it won't hit all 3. i'll adjust so that I'm shifting between the larger two, but with the ability to manually drop it to the smallest ring should i encounter a hill that i otherwise can't get up