D.I.Y. Bottom Bracket Overhaul



A

Allan

Guest
After taking my fairly new Specialized road bike to the bike shop to get rid
of the creaking noises coming from the BB under load, I decided it would be
good if I learned how to do this myself, since the creaks will return over
time. I have never overhauled the drive train on any bike before, but I
understand that the FSA Gossamer crankset and BB are fairly easy to remove
and reinstall. I downloaded the service instructions from FSA for the
MegaExo cranks and BB (bearing cups are external to the BB shell with an
internal spacer) and found it to be a little lightweight on procedure for a
beginner, so I'm seeking assistance from my fellow cyclists or wrenches who
have had experience with this type of BB.

Basically, what I would like to know is the following:

1. What tools do you need to correctly remove and replace the BB? The
service instructions give torque settings, but I've never observed my LBS
checking them with a torque wrench when they worked on it. How critical is
this?

2. Once the BB is removed, what can be done to get rid of the creaking and
clicking? Clean out the shell? Special grease on the bearings? Teflon tape?
Perhaps the crank bolts and cups just need to be tightened without removing
the BB?

3. Any pitfalls or potential problems that I should be aware of before I
open this thing up?

Any help or advice will be appreciated.




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Allan wrote:
> After taking my fairly new Specialized road bike to the bike shop to get rid
> of the creaking noises coming from the BB under load, I decided it would be
> good if I learned how to do this myself, since the creaks will return over
> time. I have never overhauled the drive train on any bike before, but I
> understand that the FSA Gossamer crankset and BB are fairly easy to remove
> and reinstall. I downloaded the service instructions from FSA for the
> MegaExo cranks and BB (bearing cups are external to the BB shell with an
> internal spacer) and found it to be a little lightweight on procedure for a
> beginner, so I'm seeking assistance from my fellow cyclists or wrenches who
> have had experience with this type of BB.
>
> Basically, what I would like to know is the following:
>
> 1. What tools do you need to correctly remove and replace the BB? The
> service instructions give torque settings, but I've never observed my LBS
> checking them with a torque wrench when they worked on it. How critical is
> this?
>
> 2. Once the BB is removed, what can be done to get rid of the creaking and
> clicking? Clean out the shell? Special grease on the bearings? Teflon tape?
> Perhaps the crank bolts and cups just need to be tightened without removing
> the BB?
>
> 3. Any pitfalls or potential problems that I should be aware of before I
> open this thing up?
>
> Any help or advice will be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
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http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

no too bad for the mechanically reclined with the right tools :)
 
Allan wrote:

> After taking my fairly new Specialized road bike to the bike shop to get rid
> of the creaking noises coming from the BB under load, [...snip...]


Are you *sure* it's the bottom bracket?

I have an '03 Allez Elite 27 that I bought new last year (Shimano 105
running gear), and what I thought was bottom bracket creaking was
actually the perfectly dreadful Alex wheels that came with the bike.
Even after having the LBS true and retension the rear wheel, it still
creaked under load.

After replacing those crappy wheels (which didn't want to stay true
here in the bumpy roads of Western PA) with Bontrager Races, the
creaking is gone.

--
Chris BeHanna
'03 Specialized Allez Elite 27
'04 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc

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"Chris BeHanna" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Are you *sure* it's the bottom bracket?
>
> I have an '03 Allez Elite 27 that I bought new last year (Shimano 105
> running gear), and what I thought was bottom bracket creaking was actually
> the perfectly dreadful Alex wheels that came with the bike. Even after
> having the LBS true and retension the rear wheel, it still creaked under
> load.
>
> After replacing those crappy wheels (which didn't want to stay true here
> in the bumpy roads of Western PA) with Bontrager Races, the creaking is
> gone.
>
> --
> Chris BeHanna
> '03 Specialized Allez Elite 27
> '04 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc
>


Chris,

You make a good point. It's difficult to tell where noises come from when
you're riding the bike. I have the 2005 version of your bike with pretty
much the same spec and I'm planning on replacing the Alexes too. I usually
suspect the bottom bracket when I hear clicking or creaking on hills or on
acceleration, but I'll try to see if the noise is actually coming from the
wheels. One of the reasons I suspect it's the bottom bracket is that I had
my LBS mechanic look at it. He pulled the BB, regreased, and reinstalled it
and the noise went away for a while. Now it's back, but you could still be
right about it coming from the wheels.

Allan



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I am the former owner of www dot competitivecyclist dot com.

I am no longer affiliated, as I sold in 2000.

I can tell you after 20 years in the business, and honestly building
thousands of wheels, the wheels can cause many of the noises that you
describe.

A couple of suggestions.

First spray the spokes where they cross with WD-40 or some other lightweight
lube.

Second spray the nipples where they pass through the rim.

Do one before the other.

If you find that the spokes are creaking, the question then becomes possibly
one of choice of components versus rider weight.

A strong wheel made with steel spokes "should not" creak

But before you ditch the wheels examine some other ideas............

A wheel made with butted spokes, TI or bladed spokes is predisposed to
creak.

The process of drawing butted spokes, blades or Ti spokes involves a process
using a die to reshape the original spoke.

As the dies wear, the spokes are not as smooth. This allows dirt to get
between the spokes and cause the creak.

If the lube works, it won't last long.

On my problem wheels we used a dab of grease (lightly swathed) between the
offending spokes.

Like any "fix", period maintenance is required to keep the "fix" in place.

Good Luck.


REMEMBER - Tightening the spokes beyond the specs for the wheel may lead to
premature failure and not solve the problem of creaks.

Allan Oxenreiter
founder and former owner of competitivecyclist


"Allan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Chris BeHanna" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Are you *sure* it's the bottom bracket?
> >
> > I have an '03 Allez Elite 27 that I bought new last year (Shimano 105
> > running gear), and what I thought was bottom bracket creaking was

actually
> > the perfectly dreadful Alex wheels that came with the bike. Even after
> > having the LBS true and retension the rear wheel, it still creaked under
> > load.
> >
> > After replacing those crappy wheels (which didn't want to stay true here
> > in the bumpy roads of Western PA) with Bontrager Races, the creaking is
> > gone.
> >
> > --
> > Chris BeHanna
> > '03 Specialized Allez Elite 27
> > '04 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc
> >

>
> Chris,
>
> You make a good point. It's difficult to tell where noises come from when
> you're riding the bike. I have the 2005 version of your bike with pretty
> much the same spec and I'm planning on replacing the Alexes too. I

usually
> suspect the bottom bracket when I hear clicking or creaking on hills or on
> acceleration, but I'll try to see if the noise is actually coming from the
> wheels. One of the reasons I suspect it's the bottom bracket is that I

had
> my LBS mechanic look at it. He pulled the BB, regreased, and reinstalled

it
> and the noise went away for a while. Now it's back, but you could still

be
> right about it coming from the wheels.
>
> Allan
>
>
>
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Allan wrote:
.....
> A couple of suggestions.
>
> First spray the spokes where they cross with WD-40 or some other lightweight
> lube.
>
> Second spray the nipples where they pass through the rim.


....

Do not get lube on your rims. You might want to keep some household
cleaner (Fantastic) handy, and clean the rims after either of these
procedures.

HTH

--Karen D.
 
"Allan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Chris BeHanna" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Are you *sure* it's the bottom bracket?
>>
>> I have an '03 Allez Elite 27 that I bought new last year (Shimano 105
>> running gear), and what I thought was bottom bracket creaking was
>> actually the perfectly dreadful Alex wheels that came with the bike. Even
>> after having the LBS true and retension the rear wheel, it still creaked
>> under load.
>>
>> After replacing those crappy wheels (which didn't want to stay true here
>> in the bumpy roads of Western PA) with Bontrager Races, the creaking is
>> gone.
>>
>> --
>> Chris BeHanna
>> '03 Specialized Allez Elite 27
>> '04 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc
>>

>
> Chris,
>
> You make a good point. It's difficult to tell where noises come from when
> you're riding the bike. I have the 2005 version of your bike with pretty
> much the same spec and I'm planning on replacing the Alexes too. I
> usually suspect the bottom bracket when I hear clicking or creaking on
> hills or on acceleration, but I'll try to see if the noise is actually
> coming from the wheels. One of the reasons I suspect it's the bottom
> bracket is that I had my LBS mechanic look at it. He pulled the BB,
> regreased, and reinstalled it and the noise went away for a while. Now
> it's back, but you could still be right about it coming from the wheels.
>
> Allan


The creaking could well be from a very common problem if you have a carbon
seat post--especially on a Specialized. . Assuming we're speaking of an E5
SLX aluminum frame, take the mechanism out that tightens the seat post.
Grease every part and also grease the lip where it goes over the top of the
seat tube. That should get rid of the creaking for a while. I found that
the carbon seat post could not be tightened enough to get rid of the creak
long term with out crushing the post. I now have a Ritchey AL post, nice
and tight with nary a creak. More creaks in my knee joints.

On the Alex wheels, I weigh 188lbs and do a good deal of climbing here in
Western MA on roads that often climb at 11% to 19%. After truing the rear
wheel at about 200 miles, it has stayed true for close to 2000 more. It
isn't the stiffest wheel for lateral flex when climbing, but is ok for a
rain/knock around wheelset. I just got a set of the Shimano R500 wheels and
they are lovely. I would recommend them to anyone.