Daytona 2000 brakes

  • Thread starter Kenneth Clements
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Kenneth Clements

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Hi all

I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper brakes. I
have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in one end of the
metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried hard to push the
rubber block out without success. Has anyone any tips on how to replace the
blocks? I could use Aztec complete blocks but they use a nut instead of a
hex screw so I would need to carry a spanner which I would rather not do.

TIA, Ken.
 
Kenneth Clements wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper
> brakes. I have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in
> one end of the metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried
> hard to push the rubber block out without success. Has anyone any
> tips on how to replace the blocks?


How about some lube?

> I could use Aztec complete blocks
> but they use a nut instead of a hex screw so I would need to carry a
> spanner which I would rather not do.


Kool Stop make some nice allen-key cartridge type blocks and really good
pads. Refills slide very easily into the Kool Stop "Dura" holders. Some
Campag brakes need the slots filing slightly wider to take them.

~PB
 
In article <[email protected]>, Kenneth Clements
[email protected] says...
> Hi all
>
> I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper brakes. I
> have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in one end of the
> metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried hard to push the
> rubber block out without success.


The gap is just to get a screwdriver in so you can lever the block out.
You might find it easier to grip the end of the block in a vice and push
down on the shoe:


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Lube the new blocks with talc or washing up liquid before pressing them
in.
 
Rob Morley wrote:

> The gap is just to get a screwdriver in so you can lever the block out.


Is the right answer!

I use a small flat bladed screwdriver (that I don't use for screws any
more). Force that in from the open end, leavering the block up as
you go. You'll find that once you've got the screwdriver about
half way down, the block will just pop out.

For inserting the new one, lube is essential. I use WD40 or similar
myself, which makes it easy(ish) to get in. Theoretically this could
rot the block, but I've never had any problems. I think it evaporates
quickly enough that it doesn't matter.

Arthur

--
Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
The struggle of people against power is the struggle
of memory against forgetting - Milan Kundera
 
"Kenneth Clements" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all
>
> I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper brakes. I
> have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in one end of the
> metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried hard to push the
> rubber block out without success. Has anyone any tips on how to replace
> the blocks? I could use Aztec complete blocks but they use a nut instead
> of a hex screw so I would need to carry a spanner which I would rather not
> do.
>

Thanks for the replies. Nice to know how it's done. Thinking of using
washing-up liquid as a lub unless someone says it's a bad idea.

Ken.
 
In news:[email protected],
Kenneth Clements <[email protected]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine
to tell us:

> Thanks for the replies. Nice to know how it's done. Thinking of using
> washing-up liquid as a lub unless someone says it's a bad idea.



All that salt in it will cause your brakes instantly to dissolve...

<g,d&r>

--
Dave Larrington
<http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
The onward interchange factor will be unity except for journeys
to Chesham, Croxley or Watford.
 
in message <[email protected]>, Pete Biggs
('[email protected]') wrote:

> Kenneth Clements wrote:
>> Hi all
>>
>> I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper
>> brakes. I have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in
>> one end of the metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried
>> hard to push the rubber block out without success. Has anyone any
>> tips on how to replace the blocks?

>
> How about some lube?


Lever with a screwdriver from the closed end.

>> I could use Aztec complete blocks
>> but they use a nut instead of a hex screw so I would need to carry a
>> spanner which I would rather not do.

>
> Kool Stop make some nice allen-key cartridge type blocks and really good
> pads. Refills slide very easily into the Kool Stop "Dura" holders. Some
> Campag brakes need the slots filing slightly wider to take them.


Aren't Daytona brakes essentially identical to Centaurs? In which case the
real thing is here:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360009235

and the widely preferred Kool Stop Salmons are here:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5300003402

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

X-no-archive: No, I'm not *that* naive.
 

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