Dial-gauge bicycle wheel building stand for $100

[[email protected]]

I thought this group might be interested in this article I just
wrote...

This article describes how to assemble an inexpensive, but very
accurate, wheel building stand for bicycles. The stand uses a dial
gauge indicator that is accurate to 1/1000th of an inch, but the
complete stand can be finished for about $100. The low price is
achieved by using inexpensive options for the primary parts: the
overall platform of the tool, the wheel holding mechanism, the dial
gauge, and the magnetic base for the gauge.

With some practice, you can build or adjust wheels to within +/- .005
inches, for both roundness and trueness. Wheels with this accuracy ride
nicely. With good wheel parts, and a little luck, you can create a
wheel that is +/- .002 inches, in both measurements. These finished
wheels are so straight that the rims look like a mirror when you spin
them. Because this tool is so inexpensive, I recommend it for use even
if you are only purchasing wheels. For example, a racing team might use
it to check that all wheels they buy are within +/- .004, and then
discard any used wheels that are worse than +/- .010 out of round or
true.

Full article, with parts list, photos, etc, is here:
http://www.chc-3.com/pub/wheel_stand.htm

Chuck Connell

 

[Leo Lichtman]

<[email protected]> wrote: (clip) The low price is achieved by using
inexpensive options for the primary parts: the overall platform of the tool,
the wheel holding mechanism, the dial gauge, and the magnetic base for the
gauge. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The use of a wooden base with a steel plate screwed on for attaching a
magnetic dial gauge stand is ingenious. For those of us who already own a
truing stand, it ought to be possible to cut the cost even further by
mounting it on a wooden base and then using your ideas for the dial gauge.
Going even further, it ought to be possible to attach the dial gauge to the
existing feeler arm on the truing stand.

 

[Roy H. Drinkwater]

Chuck Connell wrote:

> How to assemble an inexpensive, but very
>accurate, wheel building stand for bicycles


Looks like a great way to set up gauges for trueing. I'm going to
try it with my Park TS-6 stand. Thanks!


Roy

 

[[email protected]]

Yes, this whole idea should also work with any other stand that has
mounting holes on the bottom.

Chuck

 

[Alex Rodriguez]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
>
>I thought this group might be interested in this article I just
>wrote...
>
>This article describes how to assemble an inexpensive, but very
>accurate, wheel building stand for bicycles. The stand uses a dial
>gauge indicator that is accurate to 1/1000th of an inch, but the
>complete stand can be finished for about $100. The low price is
>achieved by using inexpensive options for the primary parts: the
>overall platform of the tool, the wheel holding mechanism, the dial
>gauge, and the magnetic base for the gauge.
>
>With some practice, you can build or adjust wheels to within +/- .005
>inches, for both roundness and trueness. Wheels with this accuracy ride
>nicely. With good wheel parts, and a little luck, you can create a
>wheel that is +/- .002 inches, in both measurements. These finished
>wheels are so straight that the rims look like a mirror when you spin
>them. Because this tool is so inexpensive, I recommend it for use even
>if you are only purchasing wheels. For example, a racing team might use
>it to check that all wheels they buy are within +/- .004, and then
>discard any used wheels that are worse than +/- .010 out of round or
>true.

What benefits do you get by getting your wheel true +/-.005 inches, assuming
you rearly could get it that close, over getting your wheel +/- .5mm?
-----------------
Alex

 

[Phil, Squid-in-Training]

> What benefits do you get by getting your wheel true +/-.005 inches,
> assuming
> you rearly could get it that close, over getting your wheel +/- .5mm?

^^^^^^
Engrish?

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

 

[[email protected]]

0.5mm is about 0.020 inches. If you like riding on well-adjusted
equipment, this is a very noticable wobble.

Chuck

 

[Luke]

In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:

> I thought this group might be interested in this article I just
> wrote...

Good tips Chuck! I've a concern related to the Minoura Workman used in
your article though. In my experience the stand, with its plastic
dropouts[?] and flimsy mechanism for adjusting their width, is an
imprecise instrument; it may limit the exactness theoretically possible
with the dial gauge. What's your take?

Luke

 

[[email protected]]

Would a more rigid wheel stand make a better overall tool? Probably
yes. If I were building this for daily use at a bike shop, I would
choose a stronger stand than the Minoura. For my home use, the Minoura
is OK. Being mounted to a board makes it pretty rigid. Adding the
U-bolt (see instructions) would make it even more so.

Chuck

 

[dvt]

[email protected] wrote:
> 0.5mm is about 0.020 inches. If you like riding on well-adjusted
> equipment, this is a very noticable wobble.

I'm sure you can see that wobble, but I have difficulty believing that
0.5 mm is noticeable when riding. I don't believe I've ever had tires
that fit within that spec.

--
Dave

 

[A Muzi]

> <[email protected]> wrote: (clip) The low price is achieved by using
> inexpensive options for the primary parts: the overall platform of the tool,
> the wheel holding mechanism, the dial gauge, and the magnetic base for the
> gauge. (clip)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Leo Lichtman wrote:
> The use of a wooden base with a steel plate screwed on for attaching a
> magnetic dial gauge stand is ingenious. For those of us who already own a
> truing stand, it ought to be possible to cut the cost even further by
> mounting it on a wooden base and then using your ideas for the dial gauge.
> Going even further, it ought to be possible to attach the dial gauge to the
> existing feeler arm on the truing stand.

I tried a dial gauge but I much prefer my thumb.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[sceptborg]

[email protected] wrote:

> Would a more rigid wheel stand make a better overall tool? Probably
> yes. If I were building this for daily use at a bike shop, I would
> choose a stronger stand than the Minoura. For my home use, the Minoura
> is OK. Being mounted to a board makes it pretty rigid. Adding the
> U-bolt (see instructions) would make it even more so.
>
> Chuck

I built a stand using a similar dial gauge, which I use on my lathe.
I used a front fork mounted in a vyce for the stand.
The dial is mounted on a flat plate which clamps to another flat plate
attached to one fork leg.
I did do some welding work but it probably could be made without welding.
I cut off the top of one leg and it slides out on a bracket to allow for
different wheel widths.
Using the clamping idea the gauge can be moved to just about any position
with respect to the wheel.
I have aligned wheels from 12 inch to 27 inch.
Usually get em to +- 0.02 mm : ) (addictive isn't it).

Couple days ago I straightened a 20 inch alloy wheel which had been run
over by a car.
Amazingly it went from a 60mm "S" shaped buckle to 0.05 mm ( just a rough
run out on this one, hehehe) and runs very nicely with no signs of metal
fatigue.

Rob

 

[[email protected]]

0.02mm is less than 1/1000 of an inch. Are you sure you don't mean
0.2mm?

Chuck

 

[Alex Rodriguez]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
>
>0.5mm is about 0.020 inches. If you like riding on well-adjusted
>equipment, this is a very noticable wobble.

You must have just read the princess and the pea. There is no way you can feel
the differenve between a wheel that is +/-.020" and one that is +/- .005".
------------------
Alex

 

[Jasper Janssen]

On 13 Dec 2005 06:41:23 -0800, [email protected] wrote:

>This article describes how to assemble an inexpensive, but very
>accurate, wheel building stand for bicycles. The stand uses a dial
>gauge indicator that is accurate to 1/1000th of an inch, but the
>complete stand can be finished for about $100. The low price is
>achieved by using inexpensive options for the primary parts: the
>overall platform of the tool, the wheel holding mechanism, the dial
>gauge, and the magnetic base for the gauge.

Only problem is that the $30 dial gauge set is currently priced at $51.

Jasper

 

[Jasper Janssen]

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 21:30:36 GMT, Jasper Janssen <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Only problem is that the $30 dial gauge set is currently priced at $51.

Except that I just found the correct one. Sorry.

Jasper

 

[Jasper Janssen]

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 21:43:26 GMT, Jasper Janssen <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 21:30:36 GMT, Jasper Janssen <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>>Only problem is that the $30 dial gauge set is currently priced at $51.
>
>Except that I just found the correct one. Sorry.

When you go direct to the manufacturer, there's a set with just the
magnetic base & dial for $20, which is an even better deal if you don't
need the caliper (which sells for $16 separately).
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2005/Main/549

*And* when direct, they sell to abroad. I have a catalogue to drool over.


Jasper

 

[RonSonic]

On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 13:56:42 -0500, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>> What benefits do you get by getting your wheel true +/-.005 inches,
>> assuming
>> you rearly could get it that close, over getting your wheel +/- .5mm?
> ^^^^^^
>Engrish?

Scooby.

Ron

 

[[email protected]]

i use a rear triangle cut from the suntour frame/frozen cartidge
cassette model with deluxe srcew adjuster dropouts.
mounted on 2x6' ply useful standin or sitting.
the indicator is a used credit card clamed with a $1 HD spring clamp
the main ***** is the adjusting spoke at the credit card is awkward to
spokey hand access
but clearly this stand solves the problem!!

 

[[email protected]]

does the dial gauge suffer from the drag? or TPIAW, do gauges wear out
from this rotating "abuse"?