DIY Tire Removal 3 differs from DIY 2. We at BCL Labs stand 100-150'
behind this one as foolproof and welcome fools who screw this up to
cawment further.
OK. Lets cut the expletive deleted here.
Tool list-
1. Prestone silicone lubricant available at Woolmort
2. Park's TL-1 Tire Lever called 'spoonbill' tire levers.
blue colour, pack of three
4. Dutch Plastic Tire Levers imported by Kool Stop comes in 3
embrader on the enclosure's sides! Amazing.
5. Abrasive pad, green color available at woolmort.
6. Rag, clean.
7. Possible use for Duct tape, Nashua 368 for velo or
rubber strip splicing and valve hole mending.
also sharp razor blade helps here.
Wipe tire, rim clean. Inspect for punctures and mark rim and tire for
puncture postions. Deflate tube.Make a tube deflator? Use a presta
adaptor and center epoxy a pin to depress valve.
A. Place wheel on your lap and at your belly Grab tire's bottom center
with fingers both hands pinching bead inward off the rim's shoulders,
deflating tube.
Pinch pinch pinch pushing the tire forward or away from your position
and outward until reaching rim center diameter then do the same but
squeeze inward. Play ina gadda da vida if its around?
Twisting may help if yawl can chew gum and walk.
Understand the rim pinching and bead centering. Yawl are changing the
relationship between tire and rim diamteres giving slack so the bead
can be pried off the rim edge.
Cyclists (me too) often wonder why the tire doesn't come off the
expleted deleted rim after squeezing and whatever. "Why by golly it's
the tires fault." ACH DU!
Well NO!: truth is yawl expletive deleted stupid and the tire/rim gone
and outsmarterd you big time. Gotta be smarter than the rim/tire!
Astounding. Oh , there are 'cyclists' squeezing 700 onto 27 and 27
Know the guy who sits in an airplane hanger in Arizona with 40 thugs
dressed ina tux and robes watching 20 TV screen 6'x6'. That's the dude
controlling the rim/tire size. You have expleted deleted!! By the way,
this dude exterminates 'cyclists', yawl know right. Sooner or
THE SOLUTION IS: (well, one of them. we can't cover everything here,
Repeat step A. Repeat A. if compulsive or obsessive and if so check
for the tire deflator installed before A.
Now the bead will stay centurd and a max diameter shift will continue
when yawl squeeze and press and twist rather than slip backwards and
back onto the rim shoulder-then convincing a neophyte that the factory
has ... this is a humorous list but time...
OK. Now for the good stuff at toolist 1: Prestone silicone. Prestone
has engineered this product to not only rip yawl off with as zero
possible silicone but provide a usable product. Way to go Prestone!!!
Spray silicone(that's what the can sez) on yawl no wait on the
rim/tire wall from now inserted lever to about an optomystic six
inches traveling right. Cleaning the levers and spray the tips is OK.
Do not breath this ****.
Insert toolist tool 2: the Park's spoonbill lever, a specialized tool
The Park spoonbills tend not to catch the tube when prying tire beads.
Better than the hooked Dutch lever anyway. The spoonbill shape is
effective for removing a fat tube from a skinny tire carcass without
pinching and then holing the tube. Both sets are almost indispensable,
cheap... and there's always a spare around.
Loosen the fingers or grow another arm mit hand. Insert spoonbill
adjacent Dutch lever and pry,hold spoonbill. Insert a second
spoonbill, pry, hold second. A third, now the beads coming
over rim edge, the tire's carcass no longer tightly held onto the rim.
The silicone lubes this beautifully: Itsa miracle.
The finger dexterity, and arm, knee, teeth, requi=red here is a
developed art. Takes practice and ingenuity. Imagination.
One thing to be said: learning how to use the tools may be more
important than learning how to change the tire before the sun sets.
Do not run the levers sideways along the rim top squishing(that's what
you think but its not gonna be dude)to reposition the bead outside the
rim. Running the lever along the rim top to move the bead over the top
and free and NOT prying carefully often separates bead rubber from the
bead. Itsa bad habit. Abrading rubber from the bead with a tire lever
is directly proportional to the tire's expense.
AHHH!! Remove tire, clean tire's insides, tube, slime liner and hang
to stay clean.
Clean rim's metal( who knows right??ceramic bearings?) inside clincher
wall or whatever with a small 1x2" piece of green abrasive
pad(woolmort) moist with yeah! Prestone silicone lubricant.
After cleaning, inspecting, repair (yes!! self-sealing tubes are
patchable) checking for tread direction and the continuing integrity
of the velox/rubber strip-both repairable with duct tape
(homedepot-avoid woolmort), spray another 12" tire wall with prestone
and locate that portion as the next area for a pryoff.
And check the brake pads for tire wall rub.
back from lunch -
following the DEPOSIT teflon wax ( google 'zipper lube' and then white
teflon lubricant) into rear hub spoke holes when lacing a new wheel -
i tried the CRC silicone, two coats, (and now inside following Slime's
slime as talc replacement-back next week) then mounted the tire onto
the rim off course
then sprayed again with tire mounted and inflated leaving a cove of
silicone at the sidewall rim intersection. not good.
using a patch of aluminum foil holding a swatch of paper towel (2)
soaked in acetone, I wiped the CRC Si off the rim's braking surface -
twice - clean swatchs each side
then coated the rim braking surface and overspray off course with CRC
rubber belt dressing as at - brake prep - in archives
now you may ask why? well, in touring and hd commuting, the sidewall
intersection with the rim takes a horrific pounding. Worse, the flexing

allows sand particle to enter the seam and LO!
combined with the inevitable out of round yaw, the sidewall carcass
fabric and cover seperates significantly reducting tire life --
thus the Si lube and lubecove cove reducing sidewall wear with a
protective coating of relatively flexible belt prep over the top.
so far this appears functional in reducing sidewall sepearations!!
Good grief. That made sense. Has our beloved embodiment of
creek-of-subconsciousness style been channelling Fogel?
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
On Sat, 20 May 2006 20:58:26 GMT, Werehatrack
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Good grief. That made sense. Has our beloved embodiment of
>creek-of-subconsciousness style been channelling Fogel?

Dear Werehatrack,

The only tire tricks that I know are to make sure that the tire
bead is down in the well of the rim and to finish at 90 degrees
to the valve stem.

For tools, opposable thumbs serve me well.

For lubrication, I use nothing more than occasional profanity.


Carl Fogel
I admit I made a halfhearted attempt at reading this post. Thought I
might have missed something. Nope, nothing here.
Kenny wrote:

> I admit I made a halfhearted attempt at reading this post. Thought I
> might have missed something. Nope, nothing here.

You just inadvertently disrespected his entire ... massive ... cult

Gene ... Gene ... Gene ... Gene ...
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> DIY Tire Removal 3 differs from DIY 2. We at BCL Labs stand 100-150'
> behind this one as foolproof and welcome fools who screw this up to
> cawment further.
> OK. Lets cut the expletive deleted here.
> Tool list-
> 1. Prestone silicone lubricant available at Woolmort

I happen to like dish detergent or Orange cleaner instead of oil based lube
for this application.

I always believed that it cleanded up nicer and was easier on the rim tape.

Am I wrong?


Great post!
no and yes or maybe. water is ok as long as as long as the metal dries.
example: mixing water and Tide to a detergent paste then rotary
brushing pitted metal is good practice.
but with the rim, the pressing need to get the tire back on and get on
with it leaves me paranoid about what's going on inside the assembly
when I (one prays) will not bew opening it up again for at least
another 24 hours -like if its out in the open(where it will dry
anywho) then you know if its rusting or corroding the nipples or
whatever right?
the deal seems to be -
a paper towel or rag patch mist with solvent and wiped along a boundry,
as the inner rim wall and velox floor, will not leave solvent where the
rag/towel does not go or at max tends to not disturb the adjacent
environment. this obdurate and ignorant obsrevation and practice does
take into account the fact that the velox is a durable fabric not ZZ
grade vinyl.
i use duct tape for joining the velox and haven't had any pproblems
attaching duct to velox.
on the way I discovered why slime is slimey - for the first timer the
slime's slime holds the liner on the tire's tread whilst the user
learns to pull tube down and toward the user snagging the liner with a
finger, nail, or tool and pulling upward - ya can pull both down and
out together - works god to raise the liner.
using crc silicone 0n the insides as a talc substitute is a learned
slime liner users operation fersure. In fact, i'm looking backward to
opening the tire up so as to see if the liner is in on the tread 100%
after 300 miles-

inspecting the rim/tire intersection at rim wall, I found a free space,
1/16th, between CRC rubber conditioner film sprayed on rim's braking
surface (see 'brake prep' in tech archives) and the overspray on
the tire sidewall - possible evidence of up/down movement over the
intersection giving the wear I'm trying to eliminate here thru
silicone on the sidewall: this movement tore the **** outta the conti
tt cafe racers' sidewall.

the pasela messenger is HD! not slippery, not negative handling from an
superb carcass: and not conti tt fersure - the messenger is an
excellent rear tire choice for loaded riding - a 35c rear with a 32c
front mounted with conti tt is quality reliability.'1766-28'

I rotated the rear pasela messenger to see what inside after spraying
the insides with CRC silicone not talc or cornstarch and found -

the slime liner was perfectly centered: silicone allowing liner's
sliding into position not sliding out of position.

the specialized thorn proof tube was dented by the slime liner overlap
short of the level needed to start my teeth grinding over the liner
cawsing a surface cut in the $8 tube - a major slime liner problem -
i count 3x more tube blowouts (walmort-bell) from the liner doubling
over than from glass.

the tube, liner, tire insides were cleaned and repositioned on the rim.

I, a second trial learner, wiped the sidewall down with a rag, and
experimentally off course squirted finish line dry lube wax with Teflon
onto and into the sidewall/rim wall intersection then pumped erup.

The FL did the job - removing the dirt I left in the sidewall grooves
so with a glance at the heavens I dismounted the tire, got out the 5
gallon pail, washed and brushed the tire clean with dishwasher

and remounted: did not allow the FL to dry: result? FL squirted out the
next day no rear brakes - rewiped the sidewall with acetone,

Next time - again rotating tube past the slime liner overlap, I'll
try a scuba suit zipper lube of silicone and wax in stick form for
lubing the t/r intersection. The stick should form a useable cove of
lube over the rimwall's top and give another chance to slide under
the bus.

with the intersection lube, the paselas' sidewall looks undamaged
from the HD commuting, a bit of rubber shingling only, no
circumferential rubber rupture above the TRI
the quantity of dirt on the sidewall at the sidewall/rim is amazing - i
don't do dirt tho the path has construction dirt here and there
grumble about chain cleaning!!
here yagot an expensive tire with the same problem - grinding compound
in the works
rotating and washing the tire every 300 miles??!!