C
Candt
Guest
Not sure if this is going to come out right, but on my new Haro, there seems to be a lot of 'play'
in the crankarms before engaging the rear wheel under pedalling?
OK - to clarify, if you were at a dead stop, rewinding the pedals to hear the 'clicks' of the
freehub, they are quite widely spaced - 2 to 3 inches of crank rotation. So basically - there can be
2 to 3 inches of zero resistance when moving the cranks forward until the freehub catches, and the
wheels start moving. this can make if very hard to ride tchnical sections where you're positioning
the pedals correctly to add a bit of drive to get over a log or rock, then you hit the accelerator,
and from a quarter past nine position, the cranks only start turning the rear wheel at 11:25 !!!
Now - is this something that can be replaced without replacing the hub/wheel? Or am I stuck with it
until I get a whole new hub/wheel/cassette...
Also, if it is replacable, could I do it myself, or will I have to rebuild the wheel?
Cheers,
CandT
in the crankarms before engaging the rear wheel under pedalling?
OK - to clarify, if you were at a dead stop, rewinding the pedals to hear the 'clicks' of the
freehub, they are quite widely spaced - 2 to 3 inches of crank rotation. So basically - there can be
2 to 3 inches of zero resistance when moving the cranks forward until the freehub catches, and the
wheels start moving. this can make if very hard to ride tchnical sections where you're positioning
the pedals correctly to add a bit of drive to get over a log or rock, then you hit the accelerator,
and from a quarter past nine position, the cranks only start turning the rear wheel at 11:25 !!!
Now - is this something that can be replaced without replacing the hub/wheel? Or am I stuck with it
until I get a whole new hub/wheel/cassette...
Also, if it is replacable, could I do it myself, or will I have to rebuild the wheel?
Cheers,
CandT