Do singlespeed/fixed chains wear differently from geared?

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Phil, Squid-in-Training

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Since SS/fixed chains have less slack than geared chains, do they wear any
differently?

Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and chainring can last
far longer together than on a geared bike because the slack can be taken
out, and the chain can't climb over the teeth like they can on a geared
bike. Obviously, all would have to be replaced at the same time though.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:

> Since SS/fixed chains have less slack than geared chains, do
> they wear any differently?
>
> Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and
> chainring can last far longer together than on a geared bike
> because the slack can be taken out, and the chain can't climb
> over the teeth like they can on a geared bike. Obviously, all
> would have to be replaced at the same time though.


I'm running a SRAM/Sachs S7 internal-gear hub. So I have a
single chainwheel and rear sprocket.

Of the 3 driveline components (chainwheel, chain and sprocket),
the chain wears fastest. Then the sprocket.

Chain wear becomes obvious by the fact that the chain slackens.
It needs to be adjusted, or it will eventually derail. I take
the opportunity to swap chains when there's obvious slack,
measuring the old chain, and cleaning and lubricating it for a
future bout of service until the wear is excessive. Not
surprisingly, the milage between adjustments is very dependant
on the ongoing cleanliness of the chain.

When the sprocket has worn too much, it will become quite noisy
with a new chain (as you say, it can't skip, so it complains
instead).

Chainwheels last a long time. I replace them when there's
significant visible wear to the tooth profile.

I have not tried leaving a worn chain and sprocket running to a
state of extreme wear.

John
 
I run cheap gold KMC single speed bmx chains, and they seem to last
longer than derailleur chains. Probably 'cause the KMC chains I buy are
overbuilt and they run at a perfect chainline 100% of the time. They
cost less than ten bucks, and my Shimano DX rear cog is a fiver. Can't
get any cheaper to run. :p

When I ran a Nexus 7 I usually used a KMC Nickel Heavy Duty chain, and
replaced it yearly. No rust and wore longer than any chain I've ever
used. A bit noisy on some setups though. About $15.

I like Sram chains for geared bikes, but they don't seem to have near
the longevity of single speed chains.
 
On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 14:46:23 -0400, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Since SS/fixed chains have less slack than geared chains, do they wear any
>differently?


Generally less than der chains IME. I personally believe this is
partially due to their being higher above the ground, partially due to
being wider and heavier than most current der chains, and partially
due to being loaded less. YMMV; this is not based on any fixie
experience, for one thing.

>Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and chainring can last
>far longer together than on a geared bike because the slack can be taken
>out, and the chain can't climb over the teeth like they can on a geared
>bike. Obviously, all would have to be replaced at the same time though.


--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 18:00:01 -0700, landotter wrote:

> I like Sram chains for geared bikes, but they don't seem to have near
> the longevity of single speed chains.


But SRAM makes (or they did last year) a single-speed -- 1/8" chain, which
IMO is/was better than the KMC chains I have used. PC-1 or some such
model number.

I am not so sure that a single-speed or fixed gear chain lasts longer than
a derailleur chain. It more depends upon conditions, and typically for me
I am more likely to ride in bad conditions on the fixed gear than on my
road bike. OTOH I put more miles on the road bike. But I tend to replace
all my chains, and most cables, every winter (seeing as how Sunday's ride
had both someone with chain problems, and someone else with a broken
derailleur cable, not everyone does..). I only replace the road bike
chain during the year, though; the fixed gear has always lasted OK until
the general refurbishing time, though the road chains do not.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | "What am I on? I'm on my bike, six hours a day, busting my ass.
_`\(,_ | What are you on?" --Lance Armstrong
(_)/ (_) |
 
My experience, comparing touring on bikes with standard gearing and touring
with a Rohloff hub, is that the chain lasts significantly longer with the
Rohloff hub setup. Much the same riding conditions, much the same cleaning
regime. I figure the extra life is due to a) chainline always being perfect,
and b) shifting under load with a derailleur (unavoidable sometimes) means
the chain is under stress while being bent to its maximum.

Nick

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:2azYf.4609$fS6.2073@dukeread11...
> Since SS/fixed chains have less slack than geared chains, do they wear any
> differently?
>
> Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and chainring can
> last far longer together than on a geared bike because the slack can be
> taken out, and the chain can't climb over the teeth like they can on a
> geared bike. Obviously, all would have to be replaced at the same time
> though.
 
landotter wrote:
> I run cheap gold KMC single speed bmx chains, and they seem to last
> longer than derailleur chains. Probably 'cause the KMC chains I buy are
> overbuilt and they run at a perfect chainline 100% of the time.


I think cheap KMC 1/8" chains wear much faster than, say, SRAM PC-48s.
In nasty winter conditions, the KMCs wear out in just a few hundred
miles. I notice the stretch because my winter bike has vertical
dropouts. Once the chain is worn out (near 1/8" stretch over 12
links), my chain is so loose that it begins to fall off. I can get at
best one winter from a KMC, while PC-48s will handle two or three.

-Vee
 
On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 14:46:23 -0400, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Since SS/fixed chains have less slack than geared chains, do they wear any
>differently?


Yes, they wear very, very little. Especially with a full chaincase,
obviously, but even without that.

>Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and chainring can last
>far longer together than on a geared bike because the slack can be taken
>out, and the chain can't climb over the teeth like they can on a geared
>bike. Obviously, all would have to be replaced at the same time though.


It's *still* better to replace the chain in time so the cog and especially
the chainring don't need to go, though.

Jasper
 
Jasper Janssen wrote:
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 14:46:23 -0400, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Since SS/fixed chains have less slack than geared chains, do they
>> wear any differently?

>
> Yes, they wear very, very little. Especially with a full chaincase,
> obviously, but even without that.
>
>> Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and chainring
>> can last far longer together than on a geared bike because the slack
>> can be taken out, and the chain can't climb over the teeth like they
>> can on a geared bike. Obviously, all would have to be replaced at
>> the same time though.

>
> It's *still* better to replace the chain in time so the cog and
> especially the chainring don't need to go, though.


Although we don't have any hard data, if the chain, cog, and chainrings
could last 20,000 miles with frequent retensioning, then it would definitely
be worth it.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Jasper Janssen wrote:
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 14:46:23 -0400, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:


>>> Also, I figure that a SS/fixed chain, freewheel/cog, and chainring
>>> can last far longer together than on a geared bike because the slack
>>> can be taken out, and the chain can't climb over the teeth like they
>>> can on a geared bike. Obviously, all would have to be replaced at
>>> the same time though.

>>
>> It's *still* better to replace the chain in time so the cog and
>> especially the chainring don't need to go, though.

>
>Although we don't have any hard data, if the chain, cog, and chainrings
>could last 20,000 miles with frequent retensioning, then it would definitely
>be worth it.


One data point - the left chain on my road tandem lasted through at
LEAST 10-15,000 miles, and most of that along the coast in Florida
(where it was subjected to a less than ideal atmosphere with plenty of
moisture and salt). When I eventually DID replace it, it still
measured like a new chain... but was showing signs of rust from all
the salt.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame
 

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