Do You Over Inflate Your Tires?

[Froze]

Man you people are making this way too difficult.

First of all the recommended pressure listed on the sidewall is the recommended MAX pressure not the recommended pressure for all people regardless if they weigh 55 pounds or 550 pounds. The recommended sidewall psi listing is a number that the tire manufactures came up with due to lawyers so they couldn't get sued if you went past that point, typically you would be safe going 10% beyond that IF needed due to excessive weight. How do you know if you the pressure set correctly? hmmmm, I distinctly remember giving this site before: http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html Use the 2nd calculator and enter your fully clothed ready to ride weight plus your fully loaded ready to ride bike weight, then enter your tire size front and rear. If the psi calculated exceeds your tires recommended psi by more than 10% you need the next size up tire on your bike.

This bike calculator is nothing new, this is the same formula we used back in the 70's when I got started in cycling. It's the same formula that Vittoria tire company prints on their tire package in a chart form graphing the total weight and tire size even though they have a recommended tire psi on the tire. Of course there is personal preferences, some may like a bit smoother of a ride so they can reduce the psi by up to 10, some may like a firmer ride so they can increase it up to 10, road conditions like rain may require that you run the tires about 10 psi less. So yes there are variables and preferences, but know this, the tire pressure calculator is designed for most tires and it is design to give you specifically maximum tire wear, and to a lesser degree traction which will be dependant upon road conditions of course.

 

[oldbobcat]

Cool tool, Froze. It pretty much reaffirms what I've been doing, except I like it a little firmer up front for those out-of-saddle experiences.

 

[Steve Dawson]

I'm a mountain-biker, often taking part in rough downhill courses. I have to slightly under-inflate to get the additional traction. It can be murder to your tires but its par for the course in that sort of avtivity. On roads I generally go to about 110psi. I'm 6 foor 2 but only about 170 pounds so my weight is spread out fairly well over both ends of the bike. I've never had to replace the tires on my road-racer but the mountain bike gets a new set every three or four races, depending on conditions.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Quote by OBC:
"...I like it a little firmer up front for those out-of-saddle experiences."

Same here. Hard climbing on the hoods while out of the saddle makes for less front end bounce. I don't know if it's more 'efficient' or not, but it sure feels like less energy is needed to get up those hills. Especially when your form is breaking down.

 

[531Aussie]

I've been overinflating 23mm Michelins for probably 20 years with no 'safety' problems, and in that time I've weighed anywhere from 75kg to 90kg. We have some very smooth roads around Melbourne, so, for a smash-fest with no cornering, I often use 130 in the rear and 110 in the front. Yeah yeah, an extra 20psi in the rear probably ain't gunna make me faster, but a mushy tyre messes with my head when I'm chasing ex-Olympians.

I drop it a bit for criteriums with fast corners, because I've lost a little traction a few times.

Don't forget that pump gauges aren't all the same; the above are from my old-ish Silca floor pump