Does a "better" bike really help?
- Thread starter Scott'sTrek1000
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Both Specialized and Fuji have Roubaix models. The higher end Specialized models are CF, the Fugi frame is Reynolds. The bike Skydive has is the high end CF Specialized model (which I will be riding soon).darrenf said:mental masturbation? Interesting analogyJust asking somebody to share an opinion. It is a forum after all.
The roubaix pro is fuji, not specialized? Just checked fujibikes.com and it says it's an 853 frame
darrenf said:mental masturbation? Interesting analogy
The roubaix pro is fuji, not specialized? Just checked fujibikes.com and it says it's an 853 frame
OK, opinions here: I test road the Fuji Roubaix 853 bike last fall, and thought it was a pretty ordinary, heavy and harsh-riding steel frame. I've got two older 531 bikes, and have been a Reynolds fan forever, so was expecting more from the big green 853 decal. I'd just ridden the Trek 2300 and 5200 the day; maybe I was spoiled by their smooth rides.
Had each saleman inflate the tires to 100 pounds before I rode the bikes, but who knows how accurate pressures are. Tire brands and pressures are always an issue when trying to compare ride quality.
Suggest it's best to test ride bikes for yourself, and not to believe hype about materials or any particular brand of tubing.
There is a specialized R Pro CF. There oughta be a law.But, the Fuji is listed as 105 not DA.So try to be more thorough in your checking. FWIW, most opinion is mental masturbation.darrenf said:mental masturbation? Interesting analogy
The roubaix pro is fuji, not specialized? Just checked fujibikes.com and it says it's an 853 frame
Quite candidly, I am such a novice that I don't have the qualifications or knowledge to comment on things like stiffness. Comfort is incredible however, especially with the new Specialized Alias seat (that comes in three sizes to custom fit your sit bones) that I recently added, but is stock on the 2005 Roubaix (mine is a 2004).darrenf said:
We actually weighed the bikes on a scale in the bike shop that allows you to hang the bike on the scale. My old bike was a bit over 24 pounds, and the Roubaix came in at 16.25 pounds.
Interesting comment. When I first started, even the Sequoia was slighly aggressive for my upper body flexibility, however, I notice as I keep putting on the mileage, and ride with faster groups, I am going more and more into a tuck. What choice do I have chasing these animals at speeds that sometimes exceed 30 mph?dhk said:
I am very, very pleased with my progress. I am particularly pleased with my sprinting ability at the end of rides, and have often been the first to the finish. I don't want to tell my companions that I have been riding only 5 months - many have been riding over a quarter of a century. I so wish I would have discovered cycling years ago - I not only love it, but aerobically and physically, I seem to be blessed with whatever those natural gifts are for cycling.
With running I so hated the years of endless training. With cycling, I sometimes go into the garage, support myself against a wall, and sit on my bike. I am totally hooked!
Better bikes help, particularly when climbing. But as long as the bike is reasonably light, has functioning equipment and is reliable . . . spend more time in the saddle, and work on perfecting your pedal stroke. Fitness and technique will ultimately determine how far and how fast you go in cycling.
iknowtest said:
Yep. That's the great thing about our sport. Once you get past the mid-range, reliable road bike, you can only buy a few % points of speed for a whole lotta cash. I love to look at everybody's new stuff before and after the ride, but once the fun/pain starts, the equipment just doesn't seem to matter much.
Last weekend we had a two-day club event. Rode home Sunday with two other guys....one on his new Evoke, the other guy a Trek tour bike with fenders and a rack, and me on my custom AL/CF hotrod. Guess who pulled and then left me for dead? Hint: Fenderbike finished the PBP last year with more than 10 hours to spare.
Now I am really no expert here by any means.
I got into riding only four months ago after buying a friends Giant OCR3 2002 model, which weighed about 11 kilo's (24.2 pounds for you yanks) and built up my fitnes on that.
Last week I picked up a new Specialized Allez after convincing my wife I was serious about keeping it up (riding that is).
Anyway after two rides on the weekend, 88km on Saturday and 65km on Sunday I've noticed two things.
1. The bike is fantastic with a hell of a lot less rolling resitance and a lot more get up and go than the OCR3. It weighs 8.5 kilos (18.7pounds) and I found hill climbing easier as well as acceleration.
2. I get the feeling that I was still putting in all the same effort I had to on the OCR3 to keep up with my mates. Therefore because I was on a better bike I was doing much better than before. The Specialized just doesn't take as much work to get and keep going.
I reckon I'm going to have to stay at the front more often to keep getting stronger...
I got into riding only four months ago after buying a friends Giant OCR3 2002 model, which weighed about 11 kilo's (24.2 pounds for you yanks) and built up my fitnes on that.
Last week I picked up a new Specialized Allez after convincing my wife I was serious about keeping it up (riding that is).
Anyway after two rides on the weekend, 88km on Saturday and 65km on Sunday I've noticed two things.
1. The bike is fantastic with a hell of a lot less rolling resitance and a lot more get up and go than the OCR3. It weighs 8.5 kilos (18.7pounds) and I found hill climbing easier as well as acceleration.
2. I get the feeling that I was still putting in all the same effort I had to on the OCR3 to keep up with my mates. Therefore because I was on a better bike I was doing much better than before. The Specialized just doesn't take as much work to get and keep going.
I reckon I'm going to have to stay at the front more often to keep getting stronger...
Congrats on the new Allez. No doubt the new bike is faster...maybe 3-4% difference on climbs and acceleration due to the reduced weight. Of course, measured against your old bike on a sprinters hill, a 3% advantage will put you 10-15 feet ahead at the top. If you were neck-and-neck with your buddy before, that's a clear win.nostromogremlin said:Now I am really no expert here by any means.
I got into riding only four months ago after buying a friends Giant OCR3 2002 model, which weighed about 11 kilo's (24.2 pounds for you yanks) and built up my fitnes on that.
Last week I picked up a new Specialized Allez after convincing my wife I was serious about keeping it up (riding that is).
Anyway after two rides on the weekend, 88km on Saturday and 65km on Sunday I've noticed two things.
1. The bike is fantastic with a hell of a lot less rolling resitance and a lot more get up and go than the OCR3. It weighs 8.5 kilos (18.7pounds) and I found hill climbing easier as well as acceleration.
2. I get the feeling that I was still putting in all the same effort I had to on the OCR3 to keep up with my mates. Therefore because I was on a better bike I was doing much better than before. The Specialized just doesn't take as much work to get and keep going.
I reckon I'm going to have to stay at the front more often to keep getting stronger...
Believe a several additional important factors are at work here:
1. A new bike that's lighter and stiffer/more responsive will feel a lot faster under you climbing and acclerating than a heavier, flexier one. When I went from my old 531 bike to a lighter and stiffer AL/CF bike, I noticed the same thing. But, actual gain on the clock is smaller than the difference in feel.
2. You may be in a better aero position on the new bike. My new frame fits better, so as a result I'm down in the drops a lot more, which of course saves a good bit of power at 20 mph and up.
3. New bike syndrome. If you feel great riding your new throughbred bike, you'll work harder and put out more power, but feel less pain.
dhk said:
New bIke Syndrome- you're not kidding! Hope you have Tylenol for the next morning when the buzz has worn off. Been There!
The Engine makes the final determination ... but frame/fork and wheelset make a tremendous difference. My old ride is a Medici Pro Strada, Mavic Open Pros, Dura Ace. Current ride is a Litespeed Ghisallo, Shimano 7701s, Ultegra. I am 2-4 mph faster on the Ti Litespeed than on the steel Medici.
A common mistake is to think DA will make you faster. I love DA but you're much better off getting Ultegra or Ultegra-105 mix and getting really really good wheels. There can be a tremendous difference between a cheapie wheelset and those in the $500-700 range, a difference you will note in speed and acceleration.
Best.
A common mistake is to think DA will make you faster. I love DA but you're much better off getting Ultegra or Ultegra-105 mix and getting really really good wheels. There can be a tremendous difference between a cheapie wheelset and those in the $500-700 range, a difference you will note in speed and acceleration.
Best.
The Engine makes the final determination ... but frame/fork and wheelset make a tremendous difference. My old ride is a Medici Pro Strada, Mavic Open Pros, Dura Ace. Current ride is a Litespeed Ghisallo, Shimano 7701s, Ultegra. I am 2-4 mph faster on the Ti Litespeed than on the steel Medici.
A common mistake is to think DA will make you faster. I love DA but you're much better off getting Ultegra or Ultegra-105 mix and getting really really good wheels. There is a huge difference between a cheapie wheelset and those in the $500-700 range, a difference you will note in speed and acceleration.
Best.
A common mistake is to think DA will make you faster. I love DA but you're much better off getting Ultegra or Ultegra-105 mix and getting really really good wheels. There is a huge difference between a cheapie wheelset and those in the $500-700 range, a difference you will note in speed and acceleration.
Best.
Without wanting to appear stupid by asking a really facile question (sod it, I will anyway), is your bike similarly geared to your friends'? What chainring / cassette size are you riding? How does that compare to their setups?
Also, when are they faster than you? Over a specific distance? In a sprint? On climbs? Always, regardless??
Also, when are they faster than you? Over a specific distance? In a sprint? On climbs? Always, regardless?
?
If your new bike is 2-4 mph faster with the same power input, either something was seriously wrong with your old one, or you've got a much better aero position now.CycleFreakLS said:
Maybe I don't understand what you mean by "2-4 mph difference". Is this cruising on the flat, climbing, or an overall average speed off your bike computer? How could the frame/fork and wheelset make this kind of difference?
If you said the new bike was 0.2 mph faster, that would be a huge difference.
I'm amazed that you consider .2 of a mile a "huge difference." When I upgraded from my 24 pound Sequoia to my full Dura-Ace equipped 16.25 pound Roubaix Pro, I was literally doing 2 mph better for the same effort out of the box. True, I was positioned in a slightly better aero position from the more upright Sequoia. Computers were set accurately and compared with other bikes in my bike club.dhk said:
