Does a light, 10 speed bike really help over an average 9 speed?



Bigbananabike

Active Member
Dec 29, 2004
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Hi.
I've got a few bikes - 2 training(fine day/wet day), 1 race, a Moulton folding bike I should restore, a few frames etc.

I recently got an alloy Specialized frame in my size. I was going to build up a single speed but have decided against it as it's so hilly in my area.
Now I'm thinking I could build it into a really(for me) lightweight race bike - with full carbon forks, 10 speed Shimano etc.

My current race bike is a Fausto Coppi(about '99 or '00 model year) in alloy with a full carbon fork and a mix of Shimano gear(9 speed) and Ksyrium Elite wheels.
It's ok but 'heavy' compared with the latest and greatest.

Would having a lighter bike help?
Would having a 10 speed be much of an advantage over a 9 speed?

What's the cost/benefit analysis here folks?

Cheers, Paul :)
 
Paul, can I add to your question.

What is the durability of a 10 speed vs the durability of a 9 speed ?

Thanks, Michael.
 
mikesbytes said:
Paul, can I add to your question.

What is the durability of a 10 speed vs the durability of a 9 speed ?

Thanks, Michael.

Durability is more aligned to group levels. Super light stuff is less durable.

As far as a light bike or a 9 vs. 10 group for improving your riding, it's all about the motor (you). A few grams here and there won't matter.
 
I believe I heard the 10 spd chains wear out faster than 9 spd chains.
 
Bigbananabike said:
My current race bike is a Fausto Coppi(about '99 or '00 model year) in alloy with a full carbon fork and a mix of Shimano gear(9 speed) and Ksyrium Elite wheels.
It's ok but 'heavy' compared with the latest and greatest.

Would having a lighter bike help?
Would having a 10 speed be much of an advantage over a 9 speed?

What's the cost/benefit analysis here folks?
What?!? Your Coppi weighs 17+ pounds?

There is probably not going to be any advantage in having 10-speeds components instead of 9-speed components; and, the 10-speed Shimano chain is more fragile than the 9-speed chain (and certainly, costs more).

Reducing the frame's weight will probably NOT make the most difference ...

If you want to spend money, buy a Ksyrium SSC SL2 rear wheel (or, both the rear & front wheels) ... that's got to be almost 200g of difference in the rolling weight on the rear.

Consider getting the tubular version of the SSC SL2 (or, whatever the latest & greatest is) ... tubular wheels are even lighter than the clincher versions, and most sew-up tires are LIGHTER than most clinchers + tubes + rim tape.

Latex tubes are probably lighter than what you are currently using UNLESS you are already using latex tubes ... this will give you the most bang-for-your-buck.

If you want to reduce weight, Campagnolo's shifters are lighter ... even their least expensive is only about 410g ... and, the lightest is in the 330g range.

As noted in a recent VeloNews, there is almost no perceivable functional difference between the least expensive and most expensive Campagnolo ERGO shifter ... the most recent ULTRA variants MAY have some perceivable differences. The same cannot be said for Shimano's shifters; but, the difference between the shifters in the Shimano groups is apparently less than in the past.

ALSO. Campagnolo's Chorus & Record hubs are in the Hugi/CK weight range -- I have a Chorus rear hub laced to an 32h Open Pro rim with STRAIGHT 14g spokes which weighs 973 grams (without rim tape) ... not the lightest wheel, but probably less than your Ksryrium Elite rear wheel. The front wheel weighs 841 grams.

Reducing the dynamic weight will have a greater impact than reducing the static weight ...

So, selectively changing components will probably have a greater impact than changing to a lighter frame.
 
alfeng said:
What?!? Your Coppi weighs 17+ pounds?

========================================================
I never mentioned the weight of my bike - it is 'heavy' by comparison with the modern lightweights.

Thanks for the other info though - which I'll digest.

Paul :)
 

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