Günther Schwarz wrote:
> Phil Bailey (ddog) wrote:
>
>> On Feb 21, 3:41 pm, "Nigel Cliffe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Günther Schwarz wrote:
>>>> Nigel Cliffe wrote:
>
>>> When researching dynamos last year, I decided that a front hub
>>> dynamo was the better solution for my requirements on a touring
>>> cycle, so that is the solution I took.
>
>> On my 1971 Raleigh Supercourse, I may have more room in my 27" tire
>> rear frame than your bikes 700 tire frames. Theoretically, I still
>> like the rear but you are the experts so here is a fuzzy focused
>> picture of my front end, another fuzzy angled view, a picture of the
>> front rack I'll be installing sometime in the near future, and I'll
>> have black planetX plastic fenders as well.
>>
>> http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-070217-frontEnd.jpg
>>
>> http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-070221-Angleview.jpg
>>
>> http://www.lickbike.com/lickimages/3578.gif
>>
>> If I can figure out how to install Lightspin on my front forks, then
>> the rear would not be too difficult to figure out, at least to
>> validate if it would obstruct pedalling range or bag locations.
>
> The front end will be fine, at least without the rack. For the rear
> end you will have to try.
Almost any frame clamp for dynamos has a locking screw. The screw isn't
there for current earth, its to stop the clamp rotating round the tube. For
oval forks the screw mainly stops the bracket sliding down the fork. If
you value your frame, you don't run screws into the paint and the metal
below. If you don't care too much about the rust or damage, its fine.
So, my "station" bike has a clunky clamp around the front fork for a B&M
bottle dynamo.
I'd never do such a thing to a "good" bike.
With the rack you are proposing, it might be possible to put a couple of
bits of rectangular metal bar between rails, and then drill it to take the
dynamo. It might also need some stand-off parts to position the dynamo the
appropriate distance from the wheel.
However... (below...)
>> I found a Veloplus
>> site in Germany I may figure out enough to order one at 90 euros plus
>> 16% for the generator alone.
>
> Veloplus has a good reputation. But they are Swiss, not German ;-)
> Frankly, you could avoid shopping for bottle dynamos and mounting
> hardware in Europe by fitting a dynohub wheel. Peter White sells one
> from 115$ on and he will most certainly have 27" rims also. Even the
> cheaper ones like the Shimano NX-30 are more reliable than any bottle
> dynamo. Simply because they don't slip in bad weather.
I would agree with this.
Peter White has the better 3N70 hub for $90. I'm using one on my (well
cared for) touring bike as the best compromise product. Significantly
cheaper than the Schmidt hub, and almost as good.
Having used it for a year, I can report the following:
Drag when off - unable to detect anything compared to a normal wheel when
riding the bike. Changing between makes of tyre (even the same section) has
a far greater effect.
Drag when on, powering 3W lamp - very slight increase in pedal effort, I can
feel it, but it is very very tiny. Perhaps 0.5kph at most ? There is a
slight buzz at higher speeds (above 40kph), and I've not found what is
causing that. Its about as fast as I'd want to ride when needing lights to
see !
If I need to take the wheel out, the electric plug slides off the hub, then
the normal quick release takes out the wheel. If I want to run the old
wheel, then it drops back in place.
I've not felt the need to put the old wheel (nothing wrong with it, has a
decent tyre on it) back in this bike, even in the summer when I know I will
not need lights; I think that says the hub isn't noticeable in real use.
Installation was easy; a few cable ties around the fork to keep the two
wires tidy, up to a lamp mounted on the fork crown bolt. Lamp has an on-off
switch which I can easily reach from the handlebars.
90 Euros for the Lightspin is, I guess, around $120 these days ? I'd go
with the hub dynamo.
- Nigel
--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at
http://www.2mm.org.uk/