Drilling a Seatpost Clamp?

[Greg Olsen]

Yea so, i just got a brand new carbon frame, its been sitting on my dresser for a few days. I got a new saddle shipped to me this week and wanted to put it on to see how it looked. I tried tightening the seatpost in, one bolt went in just fine, and the other wouldn't tighten all the way, it feels like its stripped inside the frame. The bolt itself is fine.

I asked the manufacturer if they could fix it, they want me to send it back to them. The problem is I don't want to have to pack it up and ship it all the way back to them for $80, then wait another 3 weeks to get it and start putting my bike together (I have a half-ironman coming up soon).

I'm wondering if I can actually drill a larger hole into the frame and just get a new bolt to fit that hole.

Anyone ever done this? Can I do it myself or should I just take it to a shop?

 

[alfeng]

If you are still procrastinating, then rather than drilling a larger ([COLOR= #ff0000]!?![/COLOR]) hole (CF does not tap readily) ...

• clean the hole ([COLOR= #808080]wash with soap & warm-to-hot water ... let dry[/COLOR])
• use some JB WELD ([COLOR= #808080]accept no substitutes![/COLOR]) to line the hole with a THIN layer of the epoxy
• plan to EITHER re-tap when the JB WELD has hardened with an appropriate tap (probably, 4x10 ... or, 5x10)
• OR, when the JB WELD is halfway to being hardened ([COLOR= #808080]keep poking at the residue blob of epoxy on your work "palette"[/COLOR]), grease the bolt & thread it in ... remove the bolt after a few minutes & continue to let the epoxy harden without the bolt in place ... if you thread the greased bolt in, again, before the epoxy is hardened, then you may not need to re-tap the hole ... no guarantees!

An alternative, which may seem dodgy BUT which should work, is to insert a plastic "expansion cone" used for screwing things into drywall where there isn't a backing stud ([COLOR= #808080]I don't know what they are called -- they come in many different sizes -- different sizes are different colors & you would probably want the one which is [/COLOR][COLOR= #0000ff]BLUE[/COLOR])... you will then use the screw that comes with the "expansion cone" or an appropriate diameter bolt.

 

[maydog]

I've used the JB weld no tap trick for some stripped water bottle and rear rack bolt holes - it works well. However, I greased the bolt and left it in place while the epoxy hardened, after curing I torqued it to spec. The seatpost clamp would take a fair bit more stress though - but then again CF is just carbon and epoxy so it may just work.

Another thought: is the bolt long enough, are you sure the two clamp bolts were the same size?

 

[davereo]

Before I would rework any brand new frame or component I would ask myself. If I screw this up can I afford to throw it out?

Make sure you are installing everything correctly and if you are and the problem still exist send it back.

 

[alienator]

Before I would rework any brand new frame or component I would ask myself. If I screw this up can I afford to throw it out?
Make sure you are installing everything correctly and if you are and the problem still exist send it back.

Exactly. The manufacturer's willing to address it but likely won't be willing to do so if you bugger it with some homemade attempt at a solution, i.e. one with JB Weld.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by maydog .

I've used the JB weld no tap trick for some stripped water bottle and rear rack bolt holes - it works well. [COLOR= #0000ff]However, I greased the bolt and left it in place while the epoxy hardened, after curing I torqued it to spec[/COLOR]

FWIW. I think that I'm going to follow your lead & leave the greased bolt in place in the future ([COLOR= #808080]at least, once![/COLOR]) rather than fret over it possibly becoming one with the JB Weld'd hole.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by alienator .

Exactly. The manufacturer's willing to address it but likely won't be willing to do so if you bugger it with some homemade attempt at a solution, i.e. one with JB Weld.

FWIW. IMO, it's really about understanding tools-and-materials ...

If a person doesn't know how to use EITHER tools OR materials, then they probably shouldn't attempt anything outside their comfort zone ...

Of course, ignorance is the reason that some people think that they need to take their bike into a shop to have it serviced by some HS kid or by someone who learned how to work on a bike in a UBI-type course.

 

[swampy1970]

Originally Posted by alfeng .



FWIW. IMO, it's really about understanding tools-and-materials ...

If a person doesn't know how to use EITHER tools OR materials, then they probably shouldn't attempt anything outside their comfort zone ...

Of course, ignorance is the reason that some people think that they need to take their bike into a shop to have it serviced by some HS kid or by someone who learned how to work on a bike in a UBI-type course.

I think it's about neither of those. It's about understanding that sticking JB Weld into a new frame that most likely has a warranty is a silly thing to do as it will most likely invalidate said warranty...

 

[alienator]

I think it's about neither of those. It's about understanding that sticking JB Weld into a new frame that most likely has a warranty is a silly thing to do as it will most likely invalidate said warranty...
 
 
 

And X gets the square. Let's see which makes more sense:

1. Let the manufacturer who warranties the product repair the product or replace as they've already agreed
2. Do some garage mashup with JB Weld which may not work at all, may conceal some other issue, and will absolutely void the warranty

To anyone with at least a modicum of common sense, the answer should be obvious. It should be doubly obvious when the repair involves CF that one should be very careful and give some consideration toward having experts in CF manufacturing or repair address the issue. If there's still doubt, consider the wee little fact that the problem in question has to do with holding a seat post in place. A rapid change in seat post placement or a sudden malfunction of the seat post clamp can result in some pretty damned serious injury.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by swampy1970 .

I think it's about neither of those. It's about understanding that sticking JB Weld into a[COLOR= #ff0000] new frame that most likely has a warranty [/COLOR]is a silly thing to do as it will most likely invalidate said warranty...

Well, clearly 'I' could be wrong, but by my reckoning ([COLOR= #808080]based on the appearance of superficial weave & lack of other detailing[/COLOR]) the pictured frame is one of the [COLOR= #ff0000]Chinese CF frame[/COLOR] bought through an eBay auction ...

• the particular frame is [COLOR= #0000ff]not[/COLOR] a Pinarello, Colnago, Bianchi, etc.

So, the frame probably doesn't have a warranty, per se ...

And, IMO, it is a credit to the seller that he is willing to replace it if the OP is willing to ship it back.

FWIW. [COLOR= #008000]One[/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]-or-two [/COLOR]FLAT toothpick[COLOR= #808080]s[/COLOR] could be inserted into the hole, too, to secure the bolt, too ... with the toothpick([COLOR= #808080]s[/COLOR]) either inserted "dry" OR with a thin layer of tub-and-tile caulk to keep the toothpick([COLOR= #808080]s[/COLOR]) from slipping ...

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by alienator .


And X gets the square. Let's see which makes more sense:

1. Let the manufacturer who warranties the product repair the product or replace as they've already agreed
2. Do some garage mashup with JB Weld which may not work at all, may conceal some other issue, and will absolutely void the warranty

To anyone with at least a modicum of common sense, the answer should be obvious. It should be doubly obvious when the repair involves CF that one should be very careful and give some consideration toward having experts in CF manufacturing or repair address the issue. If there's still doubt, consider the wee little fact that the problem in question has to do with holding a seat post in place. A rapid change in seat post placement or a sudden malfunction of the seat post clamp can result in some pretty damned serious injury.

Well, Newt ...

I guess anyone who has a modicum of knowledge about CF frames would realize that the pictured frame is not a branded frame ...

It remains an understanding of tools-and-materials AND of the object ([COLOR= #808080]in this case, the pictured frame[/COLOR]) in question ...

• if a person doesn't know what he is looking at AND/OR If a person doesn't know how to use EITHER tools OR materials, then they probably shouldn't attempt anything outside their comfort zone ...

FYI. While JB WELD undoubtedly has limitations, repairing stripped threads is generally not considered to be one of them ...

Someday, even YOU may find that JB WELD will be one of the better items to keep in your toolbox.

 

[alienator]

 

Well, Newt ...
 
I guess anyone who has a modicum of knowledge about CF frames would realize that the pictured frame is not a branded frame ...
 
It remains an understanding of tools-and-materials AND of the object (in this case, the pictured frame) in question ...
 

• if a person doesn't know what he is looking at AND/OR If a person doesn't know how to use EITHER tools OR materials, then they probably shouldn't attempt anything outside their comfort zone ... 

 
FYI.  While JB WELD undoubtedly has limitations, repairing stripped threads is generally not considered to be one of them ...
 
Someday, even YOU may find that JB WELD will be one of the better items to keep in your toolbox.
 
 
 

It doesn't matter if the frame is branded or not: the seller is willing to take the frame back, and as such that is the appropriate and wise path to follow. The seller would obviously not take the frame back if the OP had performed any of the backyard "maintenance" that you suggested and quite often do suggest. Alas, I don't need JB Weld because I, just like many other cyclists, can do repairs appropriately. It's also of comfort that there's likely only a small set of people willing to leave anything to your "knowledge" of carbon fiber.

 

[AlanG]

I guess I was wondering why it cost $80 to ship something that is so light. I was charged only $30 to ship an aluminum frame from California to Washington DC and I don't know if that is actually what it cost the person shipping it.

 

[alienator]

I guess I was wondering why it cost $80 to ship something that is so light. I was charged only $30 to ship an aluminum frame from California to Washington DC and I don't know if that is actually what it cost the person shipping it.

Shipping is, of course, going to be a function of by what company it was shipped, the type of shipping, how big the box is, and whether or not it was insured. Insuring the shipment can add a lot to the bill. Frankly, I think the cost of shipping is worth it if it gets you the optimal resolution. Do you want the optimal resolution, or are you okay with doing a barnyard repair? It's your safety and your money. $80 isn't much in the grand scheme of things, and it would be a veritable pittance if something gets buggered while doing a repair yourself or letting one be done by someone like alfeng.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by alienator .

Shipping is, of course, going to be a function of by what company it was shipped, the type of shipping, how big the box is, and whether or not it was insured. Insuring the shipment can add a lot to the bill. Frankly, I think the cost of shipping is worth it if it gets you the optimal resolution. Do you want the optimal resolution, or are you okay with doing a barnyard repair? It's your safety and your money. $80 isn't much in the grand scheme of things, and it would be a veritable pittance if something gets buggered while doing a repair yourself or [COLOR= #ff0000]letting one be done by someone like alfeng[/COLOR].

Newt, Newt, Newt ...

Not to be unkind, but you apparently have never shipped an over-sized package overseas & you are speaking out of ignorance ...

While an option was-and-is to send the frame back, the frame's appearance AND ([COLOR= #808080]projected[/COLOR]) shipping cost clearly suggests that the frame was one of the Chinese CF frames ([COLOR= #808080]there is, IMO, absolutely nothing wrong with those "Chinese CF frames" according to those who actually own one vs. your choice to disdain them in a different thread [/COLOR][COLOR= #ff0000]despite the fact that you have no first hand knowledge[/COLOR]) ...

• I suppose that if you have the UPS STORE pack-and-ship then the shipping cost could be more than it has to be I'm not saying that someone should never pay a shop to pack& ship a bike, BTW ....

• but let's suppose you were going on an excursion OR to a race with your bike ...
• would you have a shop pack the bike AND another shop unpack & reassemble it OR would you take the time to pack & unpack the bike?

[*] but, if YOU had ever sent anything overseas which was bigger than an envelope then you would know where the stated $80 cost probably came from.

Regardless, YOU have to learn how to read. The OP was NOT indicating what he paid in shipping to receive the frame, he was indicating it would apparently cost him $80 to ship the frame back to the seller.

• presumably, the OP still has the original carton shipping carton.
• FYI. The reason that a frame being shipped overseas can cost $80 +/- is due to the oversize surcharge. It cost me $60 to ship a bike frame to Switzerland several years ago
• and, $120+ to ship a wheelset to South Korea because I had to pack the wheels separately due to size constraints

YOU really have got to stop wallowing in your ignorance AND you have to stop reactively challenging what other people say just because of your limited experience.

In regard to whether-or-not the frame should be shipped back, it ultimately becomes a matter of [COLOR= #008000]WHY SHIP IT BACK IF YOU CAN DIY?[/COLOR]

Now, considering how data driven YOU generally are, one would think that you would take the time to learn the bonding characteristics & typical uses of JB WELD before proclaiming that it is not an adequate solution to the OP's immediate probem ...

• BTW, just what resin do you think that Calfee, et al, are using for small repairs to re-bond the fibers? and, if different, how do you think THAT resin compares with JB WELD?

[*] Do you even understand how the CF in a fabricated piece "works"?

Again, just because your immediate experience is limited by a choice of ignorance, challenging me doesn't make you right ... ...

• BTW, unless I'm thinking of someone else, it would seem that over the years you have apparently evolved from recommending the work be done by some HS kid at an LBS to recommending parktools.com and/or ZINN's books because you apparently have progressed on the learning curve. Good on ya!

[*] similarly, BTW, thank heaven that Chisolm has apparently "learned" that it isn't as difficult to tune a front derailleur as he once thought because he apparently chose to test-and-subsequently-follow my recommendation of using the right chain ([COLOR= #ff0000]what a concept![/COLOR]) for the particular drivetrain rather than some randomly selected chain -- something they apparently forgot to teach him at UBI-or-wherever-he-learned-his-"craft" ... or, maybe "adjusting" a front derailleur was some of the instruction which he-slept-through!?!

Regardless, just because you may-or-may-not be manually challenged doesn't mean that other people in this Forum are manually challenged -- [COLOR= #3399ff]your limitations are not those of others[/COLOR].

In the grand scheme of things, challenging what anyone says suggests that 'they' are more-than-likely correct ...

BECAUSE, in this case, my suggestion of using JB WELD remains a viable alternative to "[COLOR= #008000]drill([/COLOR][COLOR= #008000]ing[/COLOR][COLOR= #008000]) a larger hole into the frame and just get a new bolt to fit that hole[/COLOR][COLOR= #008000].[/COLOR]"

 

[alienator]

Wow. You're more ignorant than your senility leads people to believe, Ally. Having a shipped a few over overseas, I'm pretty comfortable with the shipping costs. Alas, never was it stated what was included in the cost, who came up with the cost, and etc. Alas, that means we don't know if it was pure shipping or if it had other costs added, like, uhm, handling. Nevertheless, it doesn't matter where the frame is from and it never did. It is safe to assume that it is much better to have the seller repair or replace the frame than to perform your suggested abortion on the frame. After all, the OP will always have the opportunity to turn his frame into a Leisure Suit Larry project as you suggest. I will admit that you really aren't cut from the Leisure Suit Larry cloth at all. No, you are more of an aspiring Mr. Furley: kind dull in the brain, slow witted, and unable to apply reason like normal, intelligent people.

 

[maydog]

Scare the OP away yet?

He was looking for alternatives to shipping the frame, which, in the end, may be the best option. I think we can all agree that drilling it out is not advisable - a last resort.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by alienator .

Wow. You're more ignorant than your senility leads people to believe, Ally.
Having a shipped a few over overseas, I'm pretty comfortable with the shipping costs. Alas, never was it stated what was included in the cost, who came up with the cost, and etc. Alas, that means we don't know if it was pure shipping or if it had other costs added, like, uhm, handling. Nevertheless, it doesn't matter where the frame is from and it never did. It is safe to assume that it is much better to have the seller repair or replace the frame than to perform your suggested abortion on the frame. After all, the OP will always have the opportunity to turn his frame into a Leisure Suit Larry project as you suggest. I will admit that you really aren't cut from the Leisure Suit Larry cloth at all. No, you are more of an aspiring Mr. Furley: kind dull in the brain, slow witted, and unable to apply reason like normal, intelligent people.

Newt!
While your deflection & snarky remarks are your well established modus operandi for not answering questions ... Are YOU so senile, yourself, that you forgot your prior faux plea & faux personal pledge for greater civility?!? And, what happened to YOUR lamentation about people making ad hominum remarks?

• Well, at the end of the day I guess I'll have to console myself with my being ignorant & senile as being better than your being both stupid + a prevaricator ... at least I can overcome my ignorance through your continued conveyance of the 'truth' + I'll undoubtedly forget how moronic you are by the time I finish writing this ... I'm in a win-win situation whereas you're stuck with being you! FYI. parroting data which you don't understand doesn't mask your stupidity as well as you think it does

[*] AND, thinking that simple tasks are complex shows an unfortunate level of ineptness ...

• FYI. the skill level of the DIY repair that I suggested is about equal to what a person needs to brush their teeth

Regardless, where's your evidence as to how the OP's problem will be handled at the "factory" OR would be handled by CALFEE-or-by-whomever which is different from what I have suggested?
BTW. Did you post your data on the bonding characteristics, or lack of, of JB WELD in some obscure location? No? Shooting from the hip, again, you say?
BTW2. What is "Having a shipped a few over overseas," supposed to mean? Is that just another obscure non-statement which is supposed to be like chaff which obfuscates what you have actually done, or not?