drive chain? noise

[D Killen]

Bike: Giant OCR touring (2004) has 3100 miles in last 12 months. Symptoms first appeared about 200 miles ago.

Symptoms: An irregular ticking, popping, clicking noise, apparently from drive train. This noise is not loud or pronounced. However, it is there and as the day wears on it gets more frequent although the volume does not increase. There has not been any sensation of rockiness in the bottom bracket.

Yet, there are no symptoms for the first 10-12 miles of a given ride!

This noise disappears 1) when I put strong pressure on the pedals, e.g., standing and pushing hard, sitting and pushing hard. 2) when I coast.

Once it starts on a given ride, after 10-12 miles, it occurs while spinning or imparting slight to moderate regular pressure on the cranks. It also occurs when back pedaling. 99% of the time it occurs while pedaling or backpedaling. However, 1% of the time there is a slight carry over of the noise for about a second or two when I stop pedaling or back pedaling.

Recent services to the bike: New chain installed about 700 miles ago. Chain cleaned and oiled 400 miles ago and 150 miles ago. Bike serviced 100 miles ago at 3000 miles, bottom bracket cartridge replaced.

I have taken off the pedals and re-greased them. I have lubricated the clipless pedals and shoe cleats.

I keep the bike super clean and have since I bought it in February of 2005.

Thanks for any ideas.

 

[capwater]

Tighten:
cranks
pedals
rings
bottom bracket

 

[D Killen]

Tighten:
cranks
pedals
rings
bottom bracket

I've done all these.

 

[artmichalek]

Have you checked the chain for stiff links?

 

[capwater]

Noises can be a bugger to track down. Might seem like a drivetrain but could be something else.

What kind of pedal system? Could be a loose cleat.

 

[D Killen]

Have you checked the chain for stiff links?

Yes, I have checked the chain for stiff links.

 

[D Killen]

Noises can be a bugger to track down. Might seem like a drivetrain but could be something else.

What kind of pedal system? Could be a loose cleat.

I have checked the cleats for looseness. They are tight.

I currently use Shimano PD-M324 (Compatible pedal). The problem occurs on both the cleat side and the non-cleat side of the pedal.

 

[capwater]

Does the frequency seem to coincide with the revolution of the wheel or the revolution of the crank? Could be a loose spoke....

 

[dhk]

Yes, I have checked the chain for stiff links.

This sounds like a ticking noise I had, which turned out to be from one of the rear dropouts. Does your frame have two-piece rear dropouts held together by screws?

By statically-loading the frame against a garage wall, was able to determine the slight flexing in the rear stays caused by certain pedal loads was causing the tick. It would only tick once "in each direction"....that is, once when weight was applied to the pedals in left/right sequence.

My tick was caused by slight rust under the head of the screw, in the bevel where the steel screw and AL dropout engage. The area was painted over, so I never saw any evidence of corrosion until I removed the screw.

The framebuilder told me that he had seen that similar problem once or twice before, and traced it to moisture from the cleaner that he used on the dropout prior to painting. You may know that any moisture between dissimilar metals will set up a galvanic corrosion. The rust was very slight, but enough to cause the tick.

 

[D Killen]

Does the frequency seem to coincide with the revolution of the wheel or the revolution of the crank? Could be a loose spoke....

With the revolution of the crank.

 

[D Killen]

This sounds like a ticking noise I had, which turned out to be from one of the rear dropouts. Does your frame have two-piece rear dropouts held together by screws?

By statically-loading the frame against a garage wall, was able to determine the slight flexing in the rear stays caused by certain pedal loads was causing the tick. It would only tick once "in each direction"....that is, once when weight was applied to the pedals in left/right sequence.

My tick was caused by slight rust under the head of the screw, in the bevel where the steel screw and AL dropout engage. The area was painted over, so I never saw any evidence of corrosion until I removed the screw.

The framebuilder told me that he had seen that similar problem once or twice before, and traced it to moisture from the cleaner that he used on the dropout prior to painting. You may know that any moisture between dissimilar metals will set up a galvanic corrosion. The rust was very slight, but enough to cause the tick.

I checked the rear dropouts. The right rear one to which the derailluer is attached is two pieces. I disassembled it and found no sign of rust or any other corrosion.

Since the noise does not occur at maximum thrust on the pedals, but when spinning, backpedaling or minimal thrust, I would not reckon that the static load test would be applicable.

 

[Fradbut]

Change your chain. I don't put more than 2000 miles on a chain as I had one break on me with about 3500 miles on it. They get noisy when you put on the miles.

 

[capwater]

Change your chain. I don't put more than 2000 miles on a chain as I had one break on me with about 3500 miles on it. They get noisy when you put on the miles.

I doubt it is the chain, they may rattle and grind but the "tick" experienced each crank revolution seems to be tied to the pedal, crank arm, rings family. A bad BB has more of a grind noise to it as well. Check everything is properly greased and torqued to spec. Do you have another crank to toss on as an experiment? Another set of pedals?

 

[artmichalek]

Time to start looking at the headset/stem. A lot of times noises like this get transmitted through the frame and aren't coming from where it sounds like they are.

 

[D Killen]

Change your chain. I don't put more than 2000 miles on a chain as I had one break on me with about 3500 miles on it. They get noisy when you put on the miles.

The current chain only has 700 miles on it.

 

[Scotty_Dog]

Call me crazy, but could something in the rear hub be heating up after 10-12 miles of use?

Seems like you have checked or serviced everything else. Can you switch out rear wheels with a friend or (friendly) LBS and go for a test ride exceeding your 10-12 mileage factor?

 

[dhk]

I checked the rear dropouts. The right rear one to which the derailluer is attached is two pieces. I disassembled it and found no sign of rust or any other corrosion.

Since the noise does not occur at maximum thrust on the pedals, but when spinning, backpedaling or minimal thrust, I would not reckon that the static load test would be applicable.

Assume you didn't check the left dropout because it's one piece. My tick didn't occur when standing at max force either, only at a certain range. It also seemed to start later in the rides, or even be dependent on temperatures.

The static test I mentioned is still applicable and worth doing. If you can reproduce the tick when the bike is static against a wall, you'll have a better chance of isolating it. I didn't find mine until I put my fingers on the dropout while pressing on the righthand pedal with the right hand.

Agree with Art too. A loose headset, stem or bars, as well as skewers, seatpost, seat rails, etc, could be causing the noise. Again, a static check may help find it. From your description, I'd look at everything on the bike frame, not just the drivetrain.

Good luck to you. I know how frustrating a "little tick" can be to find and fix.

 

[Scotty_Dog]

D Killen,

Did you eliminate the noise problem? If so, what was the cause?

 

[D Killen]

D Killen,

Did you eliminate the noise problem? If so, what was the cause?

It's still in question.

Yesterday, I did the Chilly Hilly on Bainbridge Island. It was there at the start. I decided just to ignore it.

It was there as I began the first big hill climb at about mile 13. I waited at the rest area for my buddies and after that I can't recall hearing it.

One of the REI mechanics and I speculated that it might be some sand caught in the idler or jockey pully on the rear derailleur. I attempted to clean that out on Saturday without taking them out of the cage by using a tooth brush while cranking the chain wheel.

I'll be riding again tomorrow and see if I still have it.

Thanks for the interest.