DT Swiss - Wheelset or Handbuilds



Ainsie

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Nov 13, 2007
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Have been looking to get myself a nice set of wheels to relegate the Zonda's to wet training duties.

Love the look of the DT Swiss 240 hubs and was looking at a build with them with the RR 1.2 rims in a 24F, 28R configuration.

Have also been looking at the RR1850 wheelset from what I can see do not appear to be much different then the 240/1.2 combo just a few less spokes (and aero) than I would choose (20F, 24R) but at a much cheaper price (approx 25-30% cheaper)

Any opinion on the merrits of either or other suggestion for hub/rim combo similar to this?

Weight not a huge issue as I run between 60-64 kg so I don't think the lower spoke count will be too much of a problem with the 1850's.

Cheers
 
Dec 30, 2007
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Ainsie said:
Have been looking to get myself a nice set of wheels to relegate the Zonda's to wet training duties.

Love the look of the DT Swiss 240 hubs and was looking at a build with them with the RR 1.2 rims in a 24F, 28R configuration.

Have also been looking at the RR1850 wheelset from what I can see do not appear to be much different then the 240/1.2 combo just a few less spokes (and aero) than I would choose (20F, 24R) but at a much cheaper price (approx 25-30% cheaper)

Any opinion on the merrits of either or other suggestion for hub/rim combo similar to this?

Weight not a huge issue as I run between 60-64 kg so I don't think the lower spoke count will be too much of a problem with the 1850's.

Cheers

I guess it all depends on the build quality. No real difference since the 1.2 rims are pretty beefy. Depends on what you want the wheels to do for you, budget, need for some aero-ness, etc.

"may" want to look at 1.1 rims, 32 rear, 28 front, with thin spokes front and left side rear, to make them lighter.
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Ainsie said:
Love the look of the DT Swiss 240 hubs and was looking at a build with them with the RR 1.2 rims in a 24F, 28R configuration.

Have also been looking at the RR1850 wheelset from what I can see do not appear to be much different then the 240/1.2 combo just a few less spokes (and aero) than I would choose (20F, 24R) but at a much cheaper price (approx 25-30% cheaper)

Any opinion on the merrits of either or other suggestion for hub/rim combo similar to this?
FWIW. If I were having a new set of wheels built, I think I would have the DT SWISS hubs laced to a pair of AMBROSIO rims.

BTW. I'm NOT certain of the actual difference (if any) is between the BEARINGS on the 240 & 340 hubs ... but, I might consider choosing a 340 hub(set) because the freehub body is steel (vs. alloy on the 240) for the next set of ROAD wheels that I lace up (yes, I chose a 340 rear hub for a MTB wheel that I laced which is paired with a the front wheel that happens to have a 240 front hub because that's what I happened to have otherwise I probably would have chosen a 340 hub for the front, too).
 

Ainsie

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Nov 13, 2007
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Thanks guys.

Was speaking to the prospective builder yesterday and they have pretty much echoed your comments re the 1.1 rims with the 340's in a 28/32 configuration.

This looks like the favourite now considering I will save a bunch of money and the internals are the same between the 240' and 340's with a little extra weight.

On the lacing side on the 28 front. Cross or Radial? Any difference in ride quality and how much difference in strength and trueness between the 2?

Was told the Ambrosio's are hard to come by here in OZ.

Cheers
 
Dec 30, 2007
2,111
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Ainsie said:
Thanks guys.

Was speaking to the prospective builder yesterday and they have pretty much echoed your comments re the 1.1 rims with the 340's in a 28/32 configuration.

This looks like the favourite now considering I will save a bunch of money and the internals are the same between the 240' and 340's with a little extra weight.

Was told the Ambrosio's are hard to come by here in OZ.

Pretty hard to come by everywhere except from ItalTechno and they want a bunch of $ for them. After building Torellis and Colnago branded rims, both made by Ambrosio, I think the DT 1.1 are a better rim(Not saying the Ambrosio isn't a good rim, just like the DT better).

BUT both are much better than Mavic, IMHO. Velocity are nice as well. 240 hubs onto Aeroheads, rear OC..nice.I built a pair 24h 2 cross front, Rev spokes, 28 3 cross rear, revs left side. 1450 grams and about $800USD.
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Ainsie said:
On the lacing side on the 28 front. Cross or Radial? Any difference in ride quality and how much difference in strength and trueness between the 2?

Was told the Ambrosio's are hard to come by here in OZ.
I would lace the front either 28x2 or 28x3 ...

I would, personally, lace the rear 32x3 on the driveside & 32x2 on the non-driveside.

AMBROSIO rims are hard to come by ... I guess I just have a fondness for them because they were the first rims I encountered with double-eyelets way-back-when -- i.e., memory may exceed reality.
 

swampy1970

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Feb 3, 2008
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Pretty hard to come by everywhere except from ItalTechno and they want a bunch of $ for them. After building Torellis and Colnago branded rims, both made by Ambrosio, I think the DT 1.1 are a better rim(Not saying the Ambrosio isn't a good rim, just like the DT better).

BUT both are much better than Mavic, IMHO. Velocity are nice as well. 240 hubs onto Aeroheads, rear OC..nice.I built a pair 24h 2 cross front, Rev spokes, 28 3 cross rear, revs left side. 1450 grams and about $800USD.
I've been pleasantly surprised with the Velocity Aerohead OC. I got one built up with a Powertap SL hub and Sapim CX rays - 32 spokes and they've been great. Better machined braking surface than the Mavics and they come in funkadelic electric red...

Stylin'.
 
Dec 30, 2007
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Ainsie said:
Thanks guys.

Was speaking to the prospective builder yesterday and they have pretty much echoed your comments re the 1.1 rims with the 340's in a 28/32 configuration.

This looks like the favourite now considering I will save a bunch of money and the internals are the same between the 240' and 340's with a little extra weight.

On the lacing side on the 28 front. Cross or Radial? Any difference in ride quality and how much difference in strength and trueness between the 2?

Was told the Ambrosio's are hard to come by here in OZ.

Cheers

Radial lacing anywhere does nothing. Cross lacing makes for a stronger wheel, all things being equal. I suggest 28 3 cross rear, inside pulling, makes for a rear wheel that's a little stronger than 2 cross. 2 cross/28 is ideal to have the spoke over flange overlap be the smallest. inside pulling as the spoke overlapping the flange is at a less severe angle going to the rim.
 

Bob Ross

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Jun 22, 2006
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btw (and slightly OT...although for anyone debating the veracity of some posts in this thread, perhaps it's germane), but in a thread on Recommended Wheelbuilders over on the Serotta Forum, your name came up, Peter.
 
Dec 30, 2007
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Bob Ross said:
btw (and slightly OT...although for anyone debating the veracity of some posts in this thread, perhaps it's germane), but in a thread on Recommended Wheelbuilders over on the Serotta Forum, your name came up, Peter.

The best advertisement is the free one, even if they bad mouth ya. What did they say? Just recommend a wheelbuilder?
I went there once but didn't like the register gig.
 
Dec 30, 2007
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The best advertisement is the free one, even if they bad mouth ya. What did they say? Just recommend a wheelbuilder?
I went there once but didn't like the register gig.

Gent just brought in some Niobium(sp?) rims, 390 grams. Gonna lace them to Tune hubs and Aerolite spokes, I'll report back.
 

Ainsie

New Member
Nov 13, 2007
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I suggest 28 3 cross rear, inside pulling, makes for a rear wheel that's a little stronger than 2 cross.
Peter,

Based on above I assume you say I could get away with 28 front AND rear?

340's only come in 32 rear that I can see. Any other suggestions for a 28 rear other than the 240's (and a stack of extra cash) or would the 32 be the way to go?

Have told the builder would be happy for this set to be in the 1500g ballpark otherwise might consider spending the extra for the 240's (if 240's would 28/28 be ok or better with the 28/32 config?). He is doing some calculations with some lighter spokes that look like being 2-3 times the price of what he originaly had in mind to see what is possible.
 
Dec 30, 2007
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Ainsie said:
Peter,

Based on above I assume you say I could get away with 28 front AND rear?

340's only come in 32 rear that I can see. Any other suggestions for a 28 rear other than the 240's (and a stack of extra cash) or would the 32 be the way to go?

Have told the builder would be happy for this set to be in the 1500g ballpark otherwise might consider spending the extra for the 240's (if 240's would 28/28 be ok or better with the 28/32 config?). He is doing some calculations with some lighter spokes that look like being 2-3 times the price of what he originaly had in mind to see what is possible.

You are in the 65 kilo range(143 pounds or so), I think 28h rear would be fine but remember, 4 spokes weigh about 30 grams but 32 hole wheel is stronger.

The way to a light-ish wheelset, IMO, is light hubs, light rims and sufficient and proper spokes to support it. NOT super thin spokes, low spoke count and light rim. I think for you a 340 hubset, Aerohead rims, Rev spokes front, left side rear but I think with those hubs(340s) not sure you will get to the 1500 gram point BUT even at 100 grams more, only about .1 of 1% of the totalweight, you and the bike but reliable wheels.
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Gent just brought in some Niobium(sp?) rims, 390 grams. Gonna lace them to Tune hubs and Aerolite spokes, I'll report back.
Peter, I've seen a pair of laced Tune hubs, once ... from-a-distance -- what is the freehub's pawl mechanism?

All I remember about them is that they looked fragile (unnecessarily minimalist, like the American Classic hubset), I was told that they are really light -- ultra-light ... I don't recall how much I was told the hubs weighed -- and, the price seemed REALLY HIGH for an "unknown" (by/to me) item whereas I was already familiar with with HUGI (now, DT SWISS) hubs & Hugi's star ratchet mechanism (which I decided I 'love' after disassembling-and-rebuilding/servicing a pre-240 rear hub).
 
Dec 30, 2007
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alfeng said:
Peter, I've seen a pair of laced Tune hubs, once ... from-a-distance -- what is the freehub's pawl mechanism?

All I remember about them is that they looked fragile (unnecessarily minimalist, like the American Classic hubset), I was told that they are really light -- ultra-light ... I don't recall how much I was told the hubs weighed -- and, the price seemed REALLY HIGH for an "unknown" (by/to me) item whereas I was already familiar with with HUGI (now, DT SWISS) hubs & Hugi's star ratchet mechanism (which I decided I 'love' after disassembling-and-rebuilding/servicing a pre-240 rear hub).

Haven't taken them apart but we did discover that the flanges on the front hub ROTATE, as in independent of the center of the hub body and each other. Customer brought these in. Not sure if that's design 'feature' or not. We are going to build the front radial so not an issue, I think, we'll see.
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Haven't taken them apart but we did discover that the flanges on the front hub ROTATE, as in independent of the center of the hub body and each other. Customer brought these in. Not sure if that's design 'feature' or not. We are going to build the front radial so not an issue, I think, we'll see.
THAT doesn't sound right ...

Although the flange "problem" (my word choice) is on the front hub, I think that the flanges NOT being firmly anchored to the center section could result in a problem with a low profile front rim/wheel with hard cornering situations ... it may not be (as much of) an issue with deep aero rim.

FWIW. Regardless of the rim profile, I would think the front wheel with THAT particular hub would be much more stable with a x2 or x3 lacing.
 

buckybux

New Member
Jul 14, 2005
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I am 160 lbs. My first high end wheels were American Classic CR420's. I constantly had problems with the rear hub, never seemed to work right. Then I replaced with a wheel I built, Aerohead Rim, Sapim CX-Rays, and I purchased a barely used Flashpoint hub (24 holes) on ebay for $50, used a 2X pattern. Much better set-up then the American Classic, and I have not had any problems with my home built.

I would prefer the 28 hole in the rear, if I had the choice again. Bottom line, I think that hand builts are far superior to machine builds.