Dura Ace Chain...Easy-Release Link

[jimmer23]

Agreed - do yourself a favor and get a quick release link or a handful of new Shimano pins. You can try pushing the old pin back in (don't remove it completely of course), but I have broken a Wipperman chain before and my guess is that it was from one of the pushed back in pins (I wasn't using the quick-release). What does it cost, a couple of bucks for a bunch of spare break-away pins? You'll find that it was well worth it when you find yourself with a broken chain climbing a hill 30 miles from home with no chain tool!

 

[PeterF]

Used a superlink and it blew,and started clicking afer only a few miles. The connex link works well, just make sure it is installed right side up. Read the instructions before using as buttwipe.

Do you use the Wipperman chain, or just the Connex links? If so, how does it stack up against the Record C-10 chain?

 

[boudreaux]

Do you use the Wipperman chain, or just the Connex links? If so, how does it stack up against the Record C-10 chain?

Connex link on a campy record chain.Been standard praactice for sveral years.I can get Record chains cheap enough, never saw the need to mpay more for something else. I get the connex links from preformance when I order other stuff and with a coupon the price comes in at about $4. LBS wanted $10 to order one...lol...

 

[PeterF]

Connex link on a campy record chain.Been standard praactice for sveral years.I can get Record chains cheap enough, never saw the need to mpay more for something else. I get the connex links from preformance when I order other stuff and with a coupon the price comes in at about $4. LBS wanted $10 to order one...lol...

Thanks for the advice! That's what I'll use when I replace my cassette and chain. $10 for the link does seem a bit silly. I think I'll wait for my Performance coupons.

 

[Catabolic_Jones]

Wow, this got right out of control!


I think I'll opt for the SRAM link. I'm a bit iffy on pushing in new pins myself, not being the most able person mechanically.

 

[Balderick]

Jokes on you know-it-all. Mountain bike, road bike, maybe a dozen times on the same pin on the same chain without failure. Training, racing, bush bashing.

If it doesn't work for you maybe you need a little mechanical help - or judging from your response to my post, maybe you need a little psychological help.

Keep throwing your money away on new pins if you want to.

Ahh - no.

Mitosis, not wanting to upset you, as you believe because it has worked for you reusing a joining pin is OK, but I think there is a problem with reusing the Shimano joining pins more than once - they were not, from what I have been told, designed to be reused. The act of snapping off the pointy bit of the joining pin causes the metal in the remaining part of the pin to mushroom out, holding the chain together across the chain. If you punch the joining link out and put it back in you may not have the same chain integrity because you may have compromised the chain's ability to hold together side to side.

Having snapped a DA chain on my MTB, thankfully not under anything like full load, I'd spend the few dollars and buy the new pin. Think of the force you put through a chain, and you want to skimp on a few bucks (if your LBS charges you anything - mine does not)? Buy a couple and tape one to your minitool.

You might have been right if you were talking old 5 speed chains - but not the narrow chains used on 9sp or 10sp running gear.

I now run a SRAM chain on my road bike - it just seems a better simpler system and I'd hate to fall when in the front of a sprint... it also has nice little cut out on the face plates, and cleans up nicely.

 

[mitosis]

Ahh - no.

Mitosis, not wanting to upset you, as you believe because it has worked for you reusing a joining pin is OK, but I think there is a problem with reusing the Shimano joining pins more than once - they were not, from what I have been told, designed to be reused. The act of snapping off the pointy bit of the joining pin causes the metal in the remaining part of the pin to mushroom out, holding the chain together across the chain. If you punch the joining link out and put it back in you may not have the same chain integrity because you may have compromised the chain's ability to hold together side to side.

Having snapped a DA chain on my MTB, thankfully not under anything like full load, I'd spend the few dollars and buy the new pin. Think of the force you put through a chain, and you want to skimp on a few bucks (if your LBS charges you anything - mine does not)? Buy a couple and tape one to your minitool.

You might have been right if you were talking old 5 speed chains - but not the narrow chains used on 9sp or 10sp running gear.

I now run a SRAM chain on my road bike - it just seems a better simpler system and I'd hate to fall when in the front of a sprint... it also has nice little cut out on the face plates, and cleans up nicely.

Thanks for the feedback Balderick - a little more objective than some.

What you said about the pin is quite correct. But you don't lose the "mushroom" if you push the pin out from the reverse side - and leave it in the outside plate of the chain. When you push it back in you can feel it click into place - just as it does when you put in a brand new one.

My experience is with 9 speed chain.

I'm not worried about the few dollars, althought the LBS wants $12, its a matter of principal. I'm into repairs and reuse. I've repaired supposedly unrepairable rear derailleurs and shimano shifters - as good as new.

As I stated before, I see the use of non dura ace joiners on a dura ace chain as more of a problem. They can have different pin sizes and different thickness face plates which can cause extra wear and, as one poster mentioned, clicking and gear changing problems.

If my chain fails I have no problem with copping the blame - but it never has (and thinking about it I have done it near to 20 times - about 5 times with each pin over the life of a chain).

I'm not saying anyone else has to do it, but done properly, I have plenty of evidence from myself and other cyclists that it is failsafe.

 

[IEatRice4Dinner]

from what i was told u NEVER drive a pin back into any shimano chain... and im sticking with it... i have seen chains fail when ppl do that.

 

[otherworld]

I have a quick-release link, or 'missing link' for my whipperman connex campy 10 speed. I had heard that Dura Ace does not yet have a quick-release link, and that you have to replace the pin every time. Is this true?

You can use the Connex or Sram links on any chain as long as you match them i.e. only use 9 speed links on 9 speed chains and 10 speed links on 10 speed chains. keep the links and chains together as a set and throw that link out with the chain when its worn.

I use Connex chains for training because they are very durable and I keep a Durace chain (with its own Connex link) just for race days. I find that Durace chains have a better feel and shift slightly better than Connex.

You'll find that having a removable link will (or should) mean you'll clean your chain properly and more often and so it will last a lot longer.

Clean your chain in diesel and lubricate sparingly with proper oil (not wax).
Wipe all the muck off your chain rings with a rag and off the cassette with a brush or rag. Wipe all the excess new oil of the chain with a clean rag and you are right to go.

Good Luck Jay,

PS Connex = Wipperman

 

[IEatRice4Dinner]

You can use the Connex or Sram links on any chain as long as you match them i.e. only use 9 speed links on 9 speed chains and 10 speed links on 10 speed chains. keep the links and chains together as a set and throw that link out with the chain when its worn.

I use Connex chains for training because they are very durable and I keep a Durace chain (with its own Connex link) just for race days. I find that Durace chains have a better feel and shift slightly better than Connex.

You'll find that having a removable link will (or should) mean you'll clean your chain properly and more often and so it will last a lot longer.

Clean your chain in diesel and lubricate sparingly with proper oil (not wax).
Wipe all the muck off your chain rings with a rag and off the cassette with a brush or rag. Wipe all the excess new oil of the chain with a clean rag and you are right to go.

Good Luck Jay,

PS Connex = Wipperman

the connex chain links are fine, i was talking about driving a single pin back in on the shimano chain.

 

[Catabolic_Jones]

Thanks Jay. I currently use kerosene, not diesel. Do you find there's a quality difference there?

 

[mitosis]

from what i was told u NEVER drive a pin back into any shimano chain... and im sticking with it... i have seen chains fail when ppl do that.

Sorry, but it sounds like you've been brainwashed too.

No one that has commented on this thread has actually tried replacing the pin and had it fail. They all heard that it was not possible.

Its an urban myth.

 

[fish156]

If you use a chain tool and remove the original joining pin that was used to join the chain when you installed it you can use the pin again and again.

Normally I am against piling on, but this is BAD, BAD, BAD advice. Don't do it. Ignore this person as he is not very smart. He will eventually become intimately acquainted with his top tube, stem, and handlebars in a violent and painful manner.

 

[IEatRice4Dinner]

Normally I am against piling on, but this is BAD, BAD, BAD advice. Don't do it. Ignore this person as he is not very smart. He will eventually become intimately acquainted with his top tube, stem, and handlebars in a violent and painful manner.

someone agrees lol.... southerlands does do

only thing u should use is the jointing pin thing that u feed it through hear it snap in place and break of the end, and of course a sramtype link.

 

[otherworld]

Thanks Jay. I currently use kerosene, not diesel. Do you find there's a quality difference there?

While diesel is not quite as good a solvent as kerosene it does what is needed to break down the residual oil and gunk and take the dirt with it. The important difference is that diesel is an effective lubricant in its own right and is designed that way due to the need for it to provide lubrication for pumps and injectors as well as be a fuel. Kerosene on the other hand while being good at washing off dirt actually has abrasive properties. Using diesel means you have a lubricant residual that will recombine with the clean oil you put on after. It’s quite common in certain circles. A lot of European pro teams use it too.

Cheers Jay.

 

[otherworld]

Thanks Jay. I currently use kerosene, not diesel. Do you find there's a quality difference there?

While diesel is not quite as good a solvent as kerosene it does what is needed to break down the residual oil and gunk and take the dirt with it. The important difference is that diesel is an effective lubricant in its own right and is designed that way due to the need for it to provide lubrication for pumps and injectors as well as be a fuel. Kerosene on the other hand while being good at washing off dirt actually has abrasive properties. Using diesel means you have a lubricant residual that will recombine with the clean oil you put on after. It’s quite common in certain circles. A lot of European pro teams use it too.

Cheers Jay.

 

[mitosis]

someone agrees lol.... southerlands does do

only thing u should use is the jointing pin thing that u feed it through hear it snap in place and break of the end, and of course a sramtype link.

You conservative types! No sense of adventure. I bet you don't try riding away when you race because you don't think it will succeed. Get out of your comfort zone!

 

[Balderick]

You conservative types! No sense of adventure. I bet you don't try riding away when you race because you don't think it will succeed. Get out of your comfort zone!

What - and go over the bars and hit my nuts on the stem?

 

[IEatRice4Dinner]

You conservative types! No sense of adventure. I bet you don't try riding away when you race because you don't think it will succeed. Get out of your comfort zone!

do what u must... i dont take chances on peoples bikes... how bad would it be if a guy raced and had his chain snaped? it might be good enough for u, but it aint good enough for the customers bikes i work on.

 

[IEatRice4Dinner]

do what u must... i dont take chances on peoples bikes... how bad would it be if a guy raced and had his chain snaped? it might be good enough for u, but it aint good enough for the customers bikes i work on.

if u wanna do things right here is some good info for if u get the pins...
there is 2 styles
-2004 10 speed dura ace\2005 ultegra 10
-2005+ dura ace
the 2 pins are not compatable!